Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing:
Wyoming Sheep Ranch
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Big Wall and Aid Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 


timpanogos


May 2, 2004, 9:49 PM
Post #1 of 20 (3468 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 17, 2002
Posts: 935

Wyoming Sheep Ranch
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Well, Pete, Eva and I are making final check lists – I have taken over the family room in the basement with gear laid out everywhere

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=31147
Pete tells me this piece of gear is critical for our success?

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=31148

Pete wants me to give an invite to anyone interested in learning a bit about Big Wall Climbing – to come and help us fix the first 3 pitches – try your hand at some A3, learn how to setup a haul for two full pigs (inverted Y with far-end hauler), 2 sub-bags and several catch lines (yes including wall flowers) – This one’s going to take a 2:1 for a few days – heck – here is just half of our liquid requirements.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=31149

Yes, this post is sure to cause some flame – but really, Pete knows his stuff – Just go to the bottom of this profile and check out what this dude has climbed.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ID=passthepitonspete


If you are interested in getting your feet wet with some heavy duty systems here is your chance. Others have done it before, and with Pete’s help done some serious stuff of their own (Ask Ricardo about Pete’s on-site tutorials).

I will be leaving for Yosemite May 14th - I’m driving, and so will be in the Valley Saturday, May 15th. I will get setup in C4 Saturday Morning and start schlepping gear to the base Saturday and Sunday. Pete does not hit Fresno until about noon on Sunday, and will be Drinking Beer on the Pizza Deck Sunday night – so find me in C4 Sat/Sun or meet for a beer Sunday Night – we will be schlepping/fixing Sunday and Monday – maybe Tuesday – so feel free to join us if you are interested.

Feel free to PM me or email Pete if you want to set up a more sure meeting time/place.


Chad


timpanogos


May 2, 2004, 9:55 PM
Post #2 of 20 (3468 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 17, 2002
Posts: 935

Re: Wyoming Sheep Ranch [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

The previous was in my words - here's Pete's personal invite:

*LEARN STUFF* in Yosemite with Dr. Piton!


Like how's it goin', eh? It's THAT TIME again - woo-hoo! Time to escape the dreary confines of [pretending] work and head for El Capitan! As per usual, I'll be conducting my Dr. Piton Mini-Big Wall Tutorials. This is an opportunity to drop by and learn stuff about climbing big walls.

Come by, hang out, drink beer, eat pizza, and pick my brains. Bring your favourite CD's. Have a look at how all the systems go together, and pick up your Dr. Piton Big Wall Tips of the Day. Bring along a notebook and pencil, because you might want to make system sketches and notes. Dr. Piton does not purport to teach the Only Way or the Best Way, but you just might find some of his ideas to be the Better Way - because the Better Way is what works best for you. If you are interested in learning stuff, may I suggest you consult these two links? [Dr. Piton's Ultimate Big Wall Checklist, Index to Dr. Piton Stuff] These two articles may give you plenty of ideas, but plenty of headaches, too.

I'm arriving in Yosemite the evening of Sunday May 16th, and it looks like a bunch of us will be hanging out at the Pizza Deck in Curry Village that night. Over the next couple of days, the tutorial moves to the base of the South-East Face of El Cap as Chad and I begin fixing pitches on Wyoming Sheep Ranch. It's a swell place to hang out on a nice grassy spot at the base of the NA Wall, just west of the Footstool. No doubt my bollocks will shrivel in terror at the sight of three thousand feet of overhanging granite - it is both a daunting and exciting location! However if a lard-assed wiener-armed off-the-couch life insurance agent like me can somehow wobble to the summit, then there is hope for most everyone. Be sure to bring your harness and jugs for there will be plenty of opportunity for on-the-wall learning.

If you're interested in coming down for a bit, or merely dropping by to say "hi", please drop me a line at my regular email: peterzabrok@cogeco.ca

I'm in Yosemite and area til the end of June or early July, so if you miss the first session, most likely there will be at least one more. I'm looking forward to meeting as many of you as possible - both new friends and old - and will keep this post updated from Yosemite. [I'm away canoeing and fishing in Algonquin Park from May 5 to 12, in case you notice I'm away]


areyoumydude


May 2, 2004, 10:40 PM
Post #3 of 20 (3468 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 27, 2003
Posts: 1971

Re: Wyoming Sheep Ranch [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Yikes! Sounds like a sausage fest.


vincent


May 2, 2004, 11:44 PM
Post #4 of 20 (3468 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 30, 2003
Posts: 178

Re: Wyoming Sheep Ranch [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Don't forget the penis pumps...


socalclimber


May 3, 2004, 4:26 AM
Post #5 of 20 (3468 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 27, 2001
Posts: 2437

Re: Wyoming Sheep Ranch [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

and the pumice butt plugs...

"Pumice is a light, porous rock that forms during explosive eruptions. ... "
:shock:


lambone


May 3, 2004, 9:02 AM
Post #6 of 20 (3468 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 30, 2003
Posts: 1399

Re: Wyoming Sheep Ranch [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Chad, good luck on yer climb.

One recomendation...leave the other half of your liquid supply straight water...there is such a thing as too much Gatorade.

Also, don't leave your Gatorade at the base, had a momma bear tear into all of ours at the base of the Trip last year.

Have fun with that Ewe :roll: :twisted:


timpanogos


May 3, 2004, 10:37 AM
Post #7 of 20 (3468 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 17, 2002
Posts: 935

Re: Wyoming Sheep Ranch [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Thanks Lambone!


getting the gitters - it's getting close!

Chad


Partner tim


May 3, 2004, 10:52 AM
Post #8 of 20 (3468 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 4, 2002
Posts: 4861

Re: Wyoming Sheep Ranch [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

yeppers, good luck man. summit or plummet, you will come back with a lot more experience!

ps. I think this is where the peanut gallery yells,

YER GUNNA DIE!!!1

;-)


russwalling


May 3, 2004, 1:51 PM
Post #9 of 20 (3468 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 12, 2002
Posts: 239

Re: Wyoming Sheep Ranch [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
getting the gitters - it's getting close!
Chad

I was with a partner once who froze in position for hours.. he started yelling "I have too much to live for"...... I convinced him otherwise. He finished the pitch.

Moral: Tell the TRUTH when you need a pitch finished.

Standard Q and Reply:
Q: Ain't life grand?
R: Nope... get moving.

Good luck and see you on the other side... as Shipley says, "Don't be late".
Russ


bigwalling


May 3, 2004, 2:39 PM
Post #10 of 20 (3468 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 28, 2001
Posts: 728

Re: Wyoming Sheep Ranch [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

If you have girl problems, hard aid is much easier! Such a pain!

Looking at that hook for a while, you're kinda thinking it is shit, then you realize that nothing in life is worth living for and you just get on it.


lambone


May 3, 2004, 3:09 PM
Post #11 of 20 (3468 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 30, 2003
Posts: 1399

Re: Wyoming Sheep Ranch [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
If you have girl problems, hard aid is much easier! Such a pain!


Yeah...maybe...

In reply to:
Looking at that hook for a while, you're kinda thinking it is s---, then you realize that nothing in life is worth living for and you just get on it.

Whoa...really? Sheesh..that's pretty hardcore. I can think of lots of things worth living for. More routes on El Cap being 1 thing towards the bottom of the list...


gunked


May 3, 2004, 3:21 PM
Post #12 of 20 (3468 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 1, 2002
Posts: 615

Re: Wyoming Sheep Ranch [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
I was with a partner once who froze in position for hours.. he started yelling "I have too much to live for"...... I convinced him otherwise. He finished the pitch.

Moral: Tell the TRUTH when you need a pitch finished.

Standard Q and Reply:
Q: Ain't life grand?
R: Nope... get moving.

Russ, that was hilarious! :lol: and...well.....True! :roll:

Good luck to ya guys. Maybe I'll bump into ya. I'll be in the Valley from ? 14th to 19th. No walls, this time. Probably some free-climbing. Although, I have been thinking about WFLT in a day. :roll: :idea: :)

-Jason :D


Partner bouldertom


May 3, 2004, 4:13 PM
Post #13 of 20 (3468 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 4, 2003
Posts: 140

Re: Wyoming Sheep Ranch [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

First off, I don't have any aid or big wall experience, but I like to lurk in the aid forum to learn things for my eventual big wall. Anyway, I'm just wondering about something:

There are 48+/- bottles in the picture. Are those 2 liter bottles? If that's only half, what does that translate into per person, per day once on the wall?


epic_ed


May 3, 2004, 4:32 PM
Post #14 of 20 (3468 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 4724

Re: Wyoming Sheep Ranch [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Tom, you really have no idea how long they plan on being up there, do you?


Partner bouldertom


May 3, 2004, 4:51 PM
Post #15 of 20 (3468 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 4, 2003
Posts: 140

Re: Wyoming Sheep Ranch [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Apart from reading about PTPP's records for most time on the wall, no I haven't a clue.


epic_ed


May 3, 2004, 5:02 PM
Post #16 of 20 (3468 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 4724

Re: Wyoming Sheep Ranch [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Let's just say they still might get thirsty. :lol:

For Pete, it's all about the vertical vacation. I'm sure they'll end up needing every drop of H2O they bring in order to sustain the party.


timpanogos


May 3, 2004, 6:08 PM
Post #17 of 20 (3468 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 17, 2002
Posts: 935

Re: Wyoming Sheep Ranch [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Hey, all the supportive replies are much appreciated – Russ, I’ve come to appreciate your quote! I don’t tend to be late to anything. Thanks for clueing in Pete, however. I can hear him now – “YOUR GONNA DIE – so get you arse climbing – can’t be late”

As for the liquid – those are 1 litter coke bottles – 12 gallons worth. Quoting from SuperTopo

“Strategy After fixing 3 pitches, most parties spend 5 to 6 days on the wall.”

We are currently planning on 80 litters of fluids - 2 days fixing and messing around – 8 days on wall worse case (10 days, 10 gallons a person). 6/10s are in sugar/salt water.

Truth be known, Pete tells me his wisky (no E) goes GREAT with the lime Gatorade note the all important 2:1 ratio there!

Chad

P.S. Lambone, thanks for the bear warning, I'll likely climb up the c1 first pitch of NA 20' or so and fix it high for the nights.


psychoredneck


May 4, 2004, 10:31 PM
Post #18 of 20 (3468 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 30, 2004
Posts: 10

Re: Wyoming Sheep Ranch [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

1-liter bottles?
That's a lot of weight in plastic and a lot of garbage to deal with. You're not going to litter are you? Or will you be in a litter???


bigwallfun


May 5, 2004, 11:29 AM
Post #19 of 20 (3468 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 2, 2004
Posts: 43

Re: Wyoming Sheep Ranch [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Yo, pete good luck, watch that pitch that goes into the eye it's scary kindof . But if you make it that far you have it licked.


timpanogos


May 5, 2004, 5:37 PM
Post #20 of 20 (3468 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 17, 2002
Posts: 935

Re: Wyoming Sheep Ranch [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Psycho,

I gathered them all empty into a 50 gallon trash bag - cleaned them up in the tub all at once - the weight was actually very minimal in the bag - with the double caps likely being the biggest hit. - weight is/was not a issue.

Sizewise - I've done both before and actually prefer the 1 litter - they actually pack better (first layer point up, second layer point down) - and two litter are just too big/heavy to carry - one litters are perfect to clip on the back of your harness (I personally don't like the water packs).

If you slip and drop one - you've only lost 1/4 of your days water - not 1/2. One handing a 2 litter (even two handing) is very drop prone - at least for me - 1 litters fit the hand very nice - I've yet to drop one.

They also comprime very well when empty - We used them last year on the Prow and I've used them on Prodigal and Moonlight - I have not littered (even accidental dropping) yet - I have, however, left some full ones on route and at base before.

I had 4 months to gather these - I could have gathered two litter - this was by personal choice/preference.

Try it, you might like it.

Chad


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Big Wall and Aid Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook