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danielb
Apr 29, 2004, 2:41 PM
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Is there any way to stop the rope slowly slipping through your belayers ATC/belay device while you are resting? It always seems to happen while I am sport climbing either climbing or belaying. Its quite annoying...
Daniel
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sticky_fingers
Apr 29, 2004, 2:43 PM
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Um...
Fee, Fi, Foe, Fum
This troll sure is dumb
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tylerm
Apr 29, 2004, 2:45 PM
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That's probably just rope stretch. If not, you need to get a better belayer.
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da5id
Apr 29, 2004, 2:46 PM
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how to stop the rope slipping??
i assume you mean the little bits of slack that belayers give when holding you for long. dont you hate how they always feel like youre dropping sooo much, when its really only like an inch?
anyway, the way i deal with this on belay is usually to use both hands on the rope and have one hand hold a point on my leg loop as well so that my hands dont let the rope move at all. thats a pain though, and you could just have your belayer get one of those devices with the teeth on one side to lock off better.
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tgreene
Apr 29, 2004, 3:05 PM
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I yelled at my belayer once... He tied a bite in the rope, clipped me directly to the tree-anchor, and went for a beer. :shock:
It was a perfectly safe situation since it was a top-rope, but it pissed me off to no end, so when it was his turn to climb... You guessed it, PENALTY SLACK! :twisted:
We don't climb together anymore since I've moved away, but when we do get together, there is simply no telling what will happen. the last time we decided to park along a bust road, strip down butt nekkid, and swim across a nearly frozen river and back... Our wives cringe whenever we begin discussing plans to visit one another. :lol:
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tripperjm
Apr 29, 2004, 3:17 PM
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Or you could do what most sport climbers do... and belay with a gri gri. So while your partner is hanging on the rope, your not pumping out your hands holding the rope before your next try.
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j_dub
Apr 29, 2004, 3:33 PM
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My friend (who is a tiny person) was having trouble with this last night while belaying on an ATC-type device (gym-issue). I have the classic ATC and find it to be kind of 'slick' - kind of annoying for just plain old toproping, esp. when people fall or rest a lot. I bought the ATC-XP last week (with the variable friction) and I LURVE it. I can hold larger climbers forever, and it barely strains my brake hand. It's also really easy to lower people (you really can't lower them too fast - nice control).
Get a device that has some more friction, and you shouldn't have this problem - if the rope is easier to hold, you won't have those little 'slips'. I guess a GriGri would work for this too, but I've never tried one, so I can't really tell ya. :wink:
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sarcat
Apr 29, 2004, 3:37 PM
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How long does your climber hang there? More than 20 seconds tell him/her to get their fat a$$ moving. If you want to be nice it they're going to hang for long wrap the rope around your leg or waist for extra leverage. Don't let go of it at any point however.
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sevrdhed
Apr 29, 2004, 3:49 PM
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I personally am constantly lowering them almost imperceptibly slowly while they're taking... that motivates them to take shorter rests.
Steve
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hoppinbig
Apr 29, 2004, 4:02 PM
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I had this problem once when belaying a heavy guy on a top rope i set up with one of my double ropes. Use 2 belay biners and the problem will be solved.
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alpnclmbr1
Apr 29, 2004, 4:14 PM
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If you are going to hang for more then a moment the polite thing to do is to clip in straight to a bolt. Problem solved.
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dancingmadlybackwards
Apr 29, 2004, 4:58 PM
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I work at a climbing gym, so i am belaying people frequently, and 90% of the time they weigh more than me. One of the biggest things is to be close to the wall if possible... the further out you go from your topmost anchor will add another force pulling you into the wall, and thus lowering your climber. The other thing I have found to work great, is to have the thumb of my brake hand pressed up against the lower ridge of my atc, when holding a hangdog. (idiot disclaimer... RIGHT HERE)
Both my climbing partners at school weigh 50+ lbs more than i do, and I have never had a problem holding them, on TR, lead, whippers, whatever. I agree that IT IS super annoying, and i dont think it should be an issue. Your belayer SHOULD be able to keep you from slippping!
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overlord
Apr 30, 2004, 6:53 AM
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if ist not just the rope stretching (wich can be a lot on longer routes), my sollutions are:
a) make the belayer grip the rope a littler harder. its not hard to do, really
b) get a grigri
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lightandslow
Apr 30, 2004, 8:02 AM
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On long hanging sessions w/ an ATC I always use my non-brake hand wrapped around the belay device and the brake rope coming out of it, squeezing the brake rope against the outside of the belay device right after it exits the device. This increased angle means less force is needed to keep the rope still, and it gives my brake hand a chance to relax (NOTE - don't take your brake hand off the rope when you are doing this, although you could hold the rope there, the chances of it slipping are much greater).
Hope that makes sense
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cantbuymefriends
Apr 30, 2004, 8:18 AM
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In reply to: If you are going to hang for more then a moment the polite thing to do is to clip in straight to a bolt. Problem solved.
Ditto that!
It's not the belayers fault that you are hanging on the rope. If you don't like the slippage, stay on the rock and don't weight the rope...
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pieter
Apr 30, 2004, 8:32 AM
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Lock off rope with non-brake hand; take longer loop with brake hand; put foot in loop and and push rope on the ground; your brake hand holds the rope on the other side of your foot then the ATC is; no force is needed.
It is even possible to take most of the weight of your harness and under your foot.
Be carefull on what kind off underground or with what kind off shoe you do this; you don't want to damage the rope!
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scracus
Apr 30, 2004, 9:32 PM
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ATCs are inherently dangerous in this regard; they don't lock on the rope, they simply provide a lot of friction that, depending on the rope thickness, may not really be enough or even safe. Check my posts in: General/ Belaying brake hand up or down, for a much better yet similar alternative.
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ilikecookies
Apr 30, 2004, 11:10 PM
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the purpose of a belay is to catch a fall. not to facilitate hangdogging, not to help you up a route that's over your head. if you want to rest, find a rest position, if you want to climb a route thats too hard for you, wait until you get better.
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jt512
Apr 30, 2004, 11:25 PM
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In reply to: ATCs are inherently dangerous in this regard...
Oh, come on. Inherently dangerous? That's an exaggeration.
-Jay
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jorian_nl
May 2, 2004, 7:15 PM
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In reply to: Is there any way to stop the rope slowly slipping through your belayers ATC/belay device while you are resting? It always seems to happen while I am sport climbing either climbing or belaying. Its quite annoying... Daniel
it's probably rope stretch, I can bloc my atc with two fingers.
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climbingaggie03
May 2, 2004, 7:22 PM
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If I'm going to hold someone for a while, I wrap the rope behind me and hold it on the other side, kind of like a hip belay. The added friction of the rope going around my body makes sure that the climber isn't going anywhere
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jcr
May 2, 2004, 8:27 PM
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Don't rest...
JC
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climberpunk
May 2, 2004, 9:43 PM
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In reply to: If I'm going to hold someone for a while, I wrap the rope behind me and hold it on the other side, kind of like a hip belay. The added friction of the rope going around my body makes sure that the climber isn't going anywhere |
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coldclimb
May 3, 2004, 6:41 AM
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I love my reverso. I use it in the higher friction mode, with the little hanger knob sticking out to the right. When I lock off for a long time, I can bring my left hand up, hook the rope forward so it gets added friction from that knob, and just grab the whole thing in my massive mitt, locking off nice and solid and freeing up my right hand for a shakeout. The rope then has three bends to grip with, not just two, so my left hand doesn't get tired. Works quite well.
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dc
May 3, 2004, 9:20 AM
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when im hangdogging a route indoors (more often than i would like to admit) and i start feeling like i'm being lowered, i glare down at my belayer and notice he's often walking towards the wall... this is probably cos (as someone else mentioned) they were standing to far out from the wall in the first place..
but if you're already resting and they are far out from the wall, just tell em to stay out (and possibly push backwards to apply more force to the rope, to avoid the stretch lowering you)
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