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wallhammer


Apr 20, 2002, 5:09 PM
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Today I soloed an A3 and had a blast. This was a mind challenge and I used several new (to me) techniques that I had never used before. This is what made the route fun.
1. a rurp/bugaboo stack
2. Half inch webbing sling around a very small knob. Three quarter inch webbing was to large and kept rolling off
3. I used a three prong talon as a micro cam hook
4. Equalized a micro nut and a pecker for one placement.
5. there was no (what i would call pro) just body weight only placements and hook moves for forty feet.
6. Dr. piton is sooo correct when he says, ”Things will always look better when you get into your top steps”.

A big thanks to DR. PITON for the encouragement to challenge oneself and providing the technical expertise to do so


krustyklimber


Apr 20, 2002, 7:34 PM
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Len,
Good for you, Dude!!! That is great!!! Topstepping on A3 ground! Awesome!

A Talon for a mini-micro cam hook? Good thinking! Which one of the three?

Man, that is just great!

Spring has finally sprung here, and soon, I will report on my next solo attempt.

Jeff

P.S. It was so cool, you double posted it, Eh?


wallhammer


Apr 20, 2002, 7:53 PM
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ya, the server was acting up and it did not post, so i waited 10 minutes and reposted. doh, now they both showed up. ATG200 feel free to delete one of these. the talon was a the med. size. i think the aid is cool cause you have to use your mind to climb as well as your muscles (what little i have of both)


glockaroo


Apr 20, 2002, 9:35 PM
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Nice job Wallhammer!


crackaddict


Apr 20, 2002, 10:40 PM
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Good job man! That is so cool wallhammer!

Solo aid is really cool!

I just got back from Paridise Forks where I did some crack climing and practiced some solo aid up a 5.12 finger crack. It was all clean aid but good experience. I am new to aiding and just trying to work the bugs out before I get on the big stuff.

I definately agree with top stepping. I was a little skeptical at first but it makes all the differnce in the world.

I would also like to thank Pete and all of you in the aid climing forum. You guys know your $#!+!!!

[ This Message was edited by: crackaddict on 2002-04-20 22:42 ]


passthepitonspete


Apr 23, 2002, 8:58 PM
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First of all, nice work on the solo aid climbing! It is my hope that more and more people will "take to the walls solo" as a result of some of the info I publish here.

Glad to be of assistance!

But dude, that climb you soloed sounds HARDER than A3. At least harder than old school A3. May well be new wave A3 or old A4 or possibly better.

Those were pretty rad ideas you were testing. It pays to be creative, eh? No real pro for 40' makes it sound like REAL A3 at least, mate!

Now, you realize you might have been able to leave a hook or two for pro, right? When you're soloing, it's easy - you don't even need duct tape! You just hold it down with the long prusik, right? Put a bit of tension in the rope, and that hook ain't NEVER popping off like it can with duct tape.

I found this out on my ascent of ZM when I ran out of frickin' duct tape! Sheesh...

And when you're using a hook for pro, don't forget to put a Screamer on it, eh?

Now, think about it - a few extra hooks for pro with Screamers on them - would that have made it any easier???

You wrote me something along the lines of, "gee, I never would have thought of that..."

Dude, it's amazing how creative you can be when you are shit scared terrified out of your mind on a solo wall!

Nice work...

Now, you know what the Big Announcement we'll be watching for, eh?

Time to join The Club!


paintinhaler


Apr 23, 2002, 9:16 PM
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you crazy mother f...ers


bigwalling


Apr 23, 2002, 10:06 PM
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Rad, yeh 40 feet is a bit far for regular A3. I love using hooks. They are alot of fun. A while ago I did a climb with 15-20ft of bad pro(nothing worthy of stopping me) and a ledge fall. It was hooks to crappy cams with two lobes touching(barely). My opinion is this was A1+. Does this sound right? Or am I truly messed up with my ratings? I got to use those talons of mine as cam hooks. That sounds sweet! Nice job man!


passthepitonspete


Apr 24, 2002, 7:22 AM
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Yes, that is correct.

New Wave A1+


bigwalling


Apr 24, 2002, 10:32 AM
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Good to know. I'm going to check out a route soon that says it uses lots of hooks. I'm hoping it is at least A2+ new wave. It's nice weather where I live and I'm going climbing today! I think. I hope the weather hold till friday also. Will do something a little longer. Thanks Dr. Piton.


addiroids


Apr 24, 2002, 10:40 AM
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Good job Len. Do you want to join me on The Nose? I will probably be doing it in September now because I just got a job and can't really quit it (or take a leave) just yet.

TRADitionally yours,

Cali Dirtbag (who needs to get his ass in some aiders)


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