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crap


Apr 20, 2002, 9:18 PM
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Portaledge comparison show down?
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I’m in the market for a portaledge, but before I buy one I am gathering as much information as I can. Money is not a limiting factor, because I have saved up more than I could spend. . I do want to get a double though I do plan to solo some stuff, so setting it up by myself is a factor. I am over six feet tall so this too is a factor. The point of this is really to get some opinions about the A5 cliff cabana, the Fish double whammy, or the metolius bomb shelter. As of now I’m leaning toward the A5, that ledge looks really cool. The fish looks good too though; I’ve only heard good things about it. I am very interested in finding out about the metolius ledge. It seems to have some cool innovations, but I would like to hear from people that have used it. Is that spreader bar worth it, or does it just get in the way. I understand that everybody is going to have their own opinion, but I would like to hear from people with first hand experience in using these ledges. I want to hear it all, good, bad, and ugly. Wha Wha Wha. Thank you, and please do not disturb the unknown soldier.

[ This Message was edited by: crap on 2002-04-20 21:50 ]


krustyklimber


Apr 20, 2002, 10:38 PM
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If ease of set-up is a factor than there's no other choice than the Black Diamond! I had a borrowed double and I could set it up in a minute and a half. I timed myself 19 times, on my home woody, in my aiders and off the ground, three times it got tangled, the longest was 3:11, and 16 were under 1:30 (my test was supposed to go to 20 but I caught my hand in the hinge and it "bit" a chunk out of my palm, I highly recommend not doing that).
If I had the money to buy one I would go with the BD single, but I'm small (5'6" 130lbs) so the double might be you. I believe the BD is the longest, but it is the heaviest, But now you know the "better way" to haul, weight is no object.

Jeff


mpepe


Apr 20, 2002, 10:44 PM
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I've been using a cliff cabana for about 5 years now. It is a steller ledge. I am only 5'9" and I have no problem setting it up myself. I am glad I got the cabana, you can never have enough room . I also have the cool fly for it. The one that is totally enclosed like a tent (I can't remember what they call it) and have used it in some serious storms up in the North Cascades. Never a whimper from the ledge or fly. In my opinon you can't go wrong with the cliff cabana.

Matt


milesdesbrie


Apr 21, 2002, 11:00 AM
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Hey Crap,

Check out http://www.climbing.com/Pages/equipment/equipment-208.html for Climbing magazine's portaledge roundup. Lots of useful info there.


quart


Apr 21, 2002, 11:30 AM
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Comfort may depend on how MUCH over six feet you are. I'm 6'1" and sleep like a baby on my FISH Double Whammy. My partner is 6'10" and hates it. I would highly recommend the FISH if you're not much taller than I am (maybe 6'3" or shorter?). It's a sweet ledge, sets up easily and has a bomber fly. It's also lighter than most of the others on the market, although you might sacrifice a little bed durability as the bed is a ripstop nylon, not cordura like the BD. It's a big investment, get something you'll love rather than something you'll tolerate. Good luck.


passthepitonspete


Apr 21, 2002, 4:59 PM
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The portaledge roundup in Climbing Mag's website is excellent! Thanks for the link!

I recently got my hands on a Metolius catalogue [more]that coming soon!] and noticed their brand new Bomb Shelter portaledge, which looks to be quite bitchin'. I'll be interested to hear someone's take on that one.

My main comment here is,

"Buy a DOUBLE ledge!"

Truly, I do not know why anyone would ever want to buy a single ledge! The additional weight and additional cost of a double ledge versus a single ledge are negligible when compared to the greater comfort and space a double ledge offers.

As far as ease of assembly is concerned, my Fish double is extremely difficult.

This is not of particular concern to me since I set up my ledge at the bottom of the wall and leave it fully assembled for the duration of the climb.

You can click here to see a properly 'flagged' portaledge in flight.

You might think that "flagging your ledge" during hauling would be ruinous, especially if the ledge should brush or be dragged up the rock, but this is NOT the case.

After well over a hundred days of hauling exactly as you see in the photo linked above, my ledge is little the worse for wear. The benefits of being able to hang out on your ledge during belaying, or to hop in for a rest between leading and hauling if you are soloing, cannot be understated. The only time I put my ledge back into its bag is if the hauling is really bad - otherwise I don't bother.

"Flagging your ledge is emphatically the shit!

Owning a double ledge also provides you one very important additional benefit - it gives you the option of inviting a partner to climb with you.

This is especially delightful when she happens to be a HOTTIE!

[Heh heh heh heh......]

Cheers,

Petie


wigglestick


Apr 22, 2002, 6:57 AM
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I too was shopping for a ledge a few months ago. I contacted Metolius to see where I could find a double ledge so I could play with it some before buying. They told me that they were having production problems with the doubles and there was a 6 month waiting list to get your mits on one. I have seen the single ledge and it looks pretty sweet.

I ended up getting a Fish Double Whammy because I wrote Russ Walling and asked what the time frame was on getting one. It turned out that he had one in stock that had been returned by somebody so they replaced the straps and the bed. The fly had never been used and the only thing that had any marks on it was the haulbag. I got it for $450. I couldn't pass up a deal like that. It is a pain in the ass to set up but doable. I have heard that the A5 is not easy either. I am 6'0" and my partner is 6'3" and neither of us have complained about it being too small.


melonhead


Apr 25, 2002, 3:33 PM
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Well all I can say is that if you go with a Fish you better have time on your hands. They are SSSSLLLOOOOWWWWWW. Not 100% sure on the product. I had to cancell mine because I was waiting forever. I was lucky to get a different one ASAP. Just one thing to consider, that's all. Good luck.

FYI....I'm not dissing Fish by any means.

O ya, I wound up with the BD Double. I like it a lot. Quick and simple. It does lack bed tentioners though. From what I hear the Met. Bomb Shelter is literally "The Bomb"!! Something to check out.





[ This Message was edited by: melonhead on 2002-04-25 15:45 ]

[ This Message was edited by: melonhead on 2002-04-25 15:47 ]


krustyklimber


May 7, 2002, 4:52 PM
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I just was down at the Feathered Friends retail store, and they have a new Bibler Big Wall double portaledge. It is really nice, it looks alot like the Metolius, with the "spreader bar". The decking was well set up with tensioners, large sharkfin seperators and a really cool tie-in/gear loop at the top. I didn't ask about the fly but with the quality of their tents being so good I imagine it is good too.
The double ledge was marked at US$235.00, now I'm bummed I went to the trouble of making a single, with a price like that I would almost enjoy having a partner (although I could make four of us a single ledge for that price, but it's alot of work to make one, I never charge myself for my own labor).

Jeff


johnhenry


May 7, 2002, 8:11 PM
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Hey Jeff,
Are you sure you werent reading the price just for the fly i.e. wall tent which is made by Bibler (a tent manufacturer). I have never heard of a Bibler ledge. Anybody else?
John


apollodorus


May 7, 2002, 8:37 PM
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I have no valid opinion on which ledge is the best. I've heard that the A5 double-pyramid is great for storms, because you can anchor the bottom to keep it from swinging around. Russ "The Fish" Walling lives up to his name: he's been walling for a long time, and knows what works and doesn't. BD is known for their quick setup.

If Metolius is holding off shipments because they're "having production problems" with their new ledge, this is a GOOD thing. It means that they ran into a manufacturing snag and are going to fix it before they release the product. Unlike some companies, which will release bad product, hoping to fix things later (MicroSoft). Product development is just that: you design it right, and then work the bugs out as they come up.

Flagging the ledge, per Dr. Piton, sounds like the way to go. As does his comments regarding single vs. double ledges.



krustyklimber


May 8, 2002, 12:23 AM
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Johnhenry,
The fly wasn't on it, so I doubt the price was for the fly. I asked the guy behind the counter if it really was Bibler, he said "Yup" and if the price marked was right and again he said "yup" to which I said "Wow! How long have you had it?" "just a few days now" was his reply.

Oops... I was lead astray by a counterperson who misunderstood my question. I just went and looked at Biblers site and this http://www.biblertents.com/2002/bigwall.html was on top of this http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/buy_bombshelterdouble.asp so I think he thought I was asking about the bivy sack on the ledge and not the ledge.
So now I can say that I have actually seen a Metolius Double Bombshelter, in the flesh, and it is the awesome ledge I described above. So it would seem that they have solved their manufacturing problems.

I hope this clears things up for you. I am sorry about the mix-up .

Jeff

[ This Message was edited by: krustyklimber on 2002-05-08 00:25 ]


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