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Salathe Beta
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crack_feine1


May 7, 2004, 9:18 AM
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Salathe Beta
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I am going to do salathe wall in a week or so. I was wondering if anyone here has led to 5.8 squeze pitch. we do not have any super large cams and I was wondering how scary it would be w/o them. I have heard stories of horrendus rope drag when protecting this pitch. any beta or suggestions woudl be great;)


crack_feine1


May 7, 2004, 9:25 AM
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sorry for the duplicate post. I got a message on the first message saying it could not post, but it posted anyway????


Partner climboard


May 7, 2004, 9:34 AM
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Re: Salathe Beta [In reply to]
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Are you talking about the half-dollar pitch?

If so, I climbed it a few years back and don't recall placing anything bigger then 3-3.5 inches.


dsafanda


May 7, 2004, 9:39 AM
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I'm suspect he is talking about the Hollow Flake pitch.

Good beta here...
http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=ybelsala


crack_feine1


May 7, 2004, 9:43 AM
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Re: Salathe Beta [In reply to]
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no the hollow flake pitch. It says the pro is 6-10 inches. the supertopo book says taht many people forgo placing pro on this pitch do to the rope drag and just run it out for 60 feet or so. Basically I was wanting some feedback regarding either stragegy for leading this pitch.


jhump


May 7, 2004, 9:46 AM
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Re: Salathe Beta [In reply to]
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Check out these sites...

http://www.gdargaud.net/Climbing/Salathe.html

http://www.wwwright.com/...rts/1999/Salathe.htm

http://www.whereisevan.com/climb03.html#salathe


Partner climboard


May 7, 2004, 9:52 AM
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I have a friend who just got back from the Valley.

Apparently there is a fixed line on that pitch so you could clip an ascender or two into it and free climb it.

Not quite as sporting though.


kalcario


May 7, 2004, 10:09 AM
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*Apparently there is a fixed line on that pitch so you could clip an ascender or two into it and free climb it.*

You've got to be kidding me. I can't believe the locals would even let that happen, you might as well just bolt it. What's next, fixed lines on the Harding Slot or the Narrows? I led that pitch and really thought nothing of it, your right leg is buried in the thing the whole way, yeah there's no pro but it's pretty low angle. There's other wide stuff that is harder and hairier than that pitch, the one off El Cap Spire comes to mind, the Salathe is a crack climber's route, if you're not comfortable with that you should do something else


crack_feine1


May 7, 2004, 10:23 AM
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I am not worried about climbing the ow. It was more a question of strategy and the most efficient way to climb this pitch. It seems that leaving gear and having really bad rope drag would be scarier than giving it a run.


kalcario


May 7, 2004, 10:28 AM
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There is no gear for that pitch, leave it all at the belay, and don't worry you'll cruise it


gbschmitt


May 7, 2004, 10:54 AM
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In reply to:
*Apparently there is a fixed line on that pitch so you could clip an ascender or two into it and free climb it.*

You've got to be kidding me. I can't believe the locals would even let that happen, you might as well just bolt it. What's next, fixed lines on the Harding Slot or the Narrows? I led that pitch and really thought nothing of it, your right leg is buried in the thing the whole way, yeah there's no pro but it's pretty low angle. There's other wide stuff that is harder and hairier than that pitch, the one off El Cap Spire comes to mind, the Salathe is a crack climber's route, if you're not comfortable with that you should do something else

I'm the guy climboard mentioned earlier. I was on Salathe the week of April 19. We encountered fixed ropes from Heart Ledges all the way to the top of Hollow Flake Ledge. They may have been fixed by Dean Potter and Steph Davis because Steph was attempting an ascent of Freerider; they were using the fixed lines to shuttle their gear. I'm not sure if they in fact placed the fixed lines, those appeared to have been there for some time.
My partner who led the Hollow Flake pitch was of the opinion that anything the size of a #6 friend or smaller would not work on the Hollow Flake. He in fact clipped an ascender into the fixed rope to back himself up and then climbed the pitch. If the ropes are not there, an alternative would be to get a big valley cam (look for info in other posts on this site) and walk it up, or just suck it up and go. Leaving gear will create horrendous rope drag. From what I've seen jugging the pitch, it gets easier about halfway through once you get past the horn. Be careful with your ropes here, there are a ton of stuck ropes in the Hollow Flake. Also, your haulbag will get stuck on said horn, so your second should be jugging below the bag to free it.

Gert


ambler


May 7, 2004, 11:43 AM
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Re: Salathe Beta [In reply to]
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In reply to:
My partner who led the Hollow Flake pitch was of the opinion that anything the size of a #6 friend or smaller would not work on the Hollow Flake. He in fact clipped an ascender into the fixed rope to back himself up and then climbed the pitch.
Tweeet! Yellow flag! It's says right there in the Classic Climbs Rule Book -- you can't claim that you "climbed the Salathe Wall" unless you personally led either Hollow Flake or the Ear in good style. Jumar on a fixed toprope doesn't count.

In reply to:
If the ropes are not there, an alternative would be to get a big valley cam (look for info in other posts on this site) and walk it up, or just suck it up and go. Leaving gear will create horrendous rope drag. From what I've seen jugging the pitch, it gets easier about halfway through once you get past the horn. Be careful with your ropes here, there are a ton of stuck ropes in the Hollow Flake. Also, your haulbag will get stuck on said horn, so your second should be jugging below the bag to free it.
Right, that's pretty much what I recall -- either you protect the crux, which gives you terrible rope drag on the easier runout above; or else you do the crux unprotected and have an easier time reaching the belay. (I think the upper half of this pitch is only about 5.6, but you're deep in the "no falling" zone.)


gbschmitt


May 7, 2004, 12:27 PM
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In reply to:
Tweeet! Yellow flag! It's says right there in the Classic Climbs Rule Book -- you can't claim that you "climbed the Salathe Wall" unless you personally led either Hollow Flake or the Ear in good style. Jumar on a fixed toprope doesn't count.

Unfortunately I cannot claim an ascent anyway because after I had led the Ear (in good style), my partner lost nerve and insisted on bailing. Dragged me off the wall kicking and screaming.
(Of course that was the curse of the fixed ropes in the Hollow Flake because reversing that pitch without a fixed rope would be very difficult)
Ce la vie.
Gert

PS Who wants to go back with me and do a "proper" ascent?


kalcario


May 7, 2004, 1:07 PM
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*Of course that was the curse of the fixed ropes in the Hollow Flake because reversing that pitch without a fixed rope would be very difficult)
Ce la vie.
Gert*

I also bailed after jugging in the rain and spending 2 nights in rain and snow on HF ledge and the Alcove and we reversed the HF penjy w/ no fixed lines on wet rock it was triple-jingus


sto


May 10, 2004, 9:34 AM
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There is a lot about this pitch on the internet. Not all of it consistent. I did it last May but my partner lead the Hollow Flake. He could get a #6 Friend in at the bottom but further up he said the #3 Bigbro wasn't big enough. He just ran it out but if your haul line is dynamic you can reduce the risk by basically using two rope technique. Pendulum with the lead line and clip the haul line on a few pieces you leave in the crack. That way you don't create the severe rope drag you'd get if you clipped the lead line.

Make sure you start from the upper belay on Lung Ledge. We didn't and it was panic stations when the leader ran out of rope while in the flake. Gulp.

If you bring big gear it certainly won't go to waste! Have fun!


skiclimb


May 10, 2004, 9:29 PM
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In reply to:
I am going to do salathe wall in a week or so. I was wondering if anyone here has led to 5.8 squeze pitch. we do not have any super large cams and I was wondering how scary it would be w/o them. I have heard stories of horrendus rope drag when protecting this pitch. any beta or suggestions woudl be great;)

It really does get fairly easy toward the top where a fall would be scary. Don't know anyone who has actually fallen out of the hollow flake. We did the route with two #4 camalots and a #5 if I remeber correctly. You can place the #5 in the half dollar. No pro for hollow flake. Not really my favorite route..even the aid pitches find ways of wanting a couple #4s or a 5 usually.


brutusofwyde


May 11, 2004, 7:34 AM
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#4 Big Bro can find a good placement high along Horror Frake, and in the Ear as well.

#5 Camalot also can find several homes during the climb, including on some pitches that do not have fame and fortune associated with them. Place it before it is completely maxed out for better security -- after the thing gets wide you will not get another chance.

Often there is a rope fixed across the Penji to Horror Frake, but usually above that you are on your own.

Good advice on climbing up as far as possible before placing pro after the penji.

Recommend strongly against hauling Free Blast.

Brutus (Salathe Twice)


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