Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing:
solo aid?
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michaelmay513


May 9, 2004, 12:20 PM
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Registered: Aug 4, 2002
Posts: 282

solo aid?
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How does the process work? Do you not fall at all or can you fall while solo aiding? If so how do you set up the rope to prevent falling to far. Please explain I'm curious to understand how solo aid works.

Thank you .

Mike


jgardnerphoto


May 9, 2004, 2:47 PM
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Registered: Nov 13, 2003
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Re: solo aid? [In reply to]
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Ok to start, yes you can fall and yes you can fall far.

The solo aid process is much like the regular aid process. However instead of having a belayer and travelling each pitch once you have the lead rope you are climbing on anchored into the anchor below you and you will travel the length of the pitch three times.

As you climb upward you feed rope through the device that you are using (clove hitch, grigri, soloist, silent partner, ect.) In this way, if you were to blow it and fall the device would catch you after the rope came tight to the anchor. So basically you start with the lead line tied to the anchor and then attach your deivce of choice to the rope right where it is equalized to the anchor and as you climb you just feed the rope through the device and get further and further from the anchor.

Once you reach the end of the pitch you will anchor both your lead line and your haul line and rap back down to the bags that are attached at the lower anchor via the haul line. Upon reaching the bags you will attach to the anchor and then set the bags free so that they are hanging straight from the anchor above you. At this point you clip onto the lead line and begin cleaning the pitch you just led. When you reach the anchor you haul the bags up and then start the fun process all over again.

This is a pretty simplified description but the ideas are all there, just find someone who has done it and get them to show you the details.

-jg


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