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help with speeding up placements
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tks


May 10, 2004, 1:08 PM
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help with speeding up placements
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Anybody got a tip or technique to get a nut in, draw on, and rope clipped in quick while you're in a thin spot?
i'm on a climb yesterday, and the feet are pretty tin, and i've got one good fingerlock. but i'm fumbling getting the nuts up, getting a draw on, and clipping in. maybe it's the order on my rack, but there's gotta be a better way. ant ideas?

tom


gds


May 10, 2004, 1:18 PM
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Re: help with speeding up placements [In reply to]
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Practice and experience! There are various racking systems but i've had so many arguments over what works best that the discussion is difficult.

I do think that time spentplacing gear while still at the bottom or on big ledges, or from really good stances pays off. That way yo can get used to placing gear while not on thin moves and separate (as much as possible) the acts of selecting, placing and clipping gear from climbing. Where you climb- J Tree- there are lots of great easy routes that eat gear and are great for this type of practice.


vegastradguy


May 10, 2004, 1:24 PM
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Re: help with speeding up placements [In reply to]
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place solid gear before and after the crux. not during.

sounds like you were in the middle of a crux. keep going. dont mess w/ the gear then. if you have to fire in a piece, fire in a cam.

as far as stoppers go, i usually dont keep any more than 5 on any given carabiner. keeps the cluster to a minimum.


chalkpaw


May 11, 2004, 6:09 PM
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I have a good habit and a bad habit which pretty much evens out the leading game. My bad habit is to place gear in the crux. I'll move up, try the move, try the gear, miss the placement and then will be spit off, just trying too hard. Often I'll find the "right" way to place gear near my limit just by moving around a little bit, trying to relax while I fiddle in a piece.
My good habit is to plan ahead with a gear placement while at a rest. Look up and find the placement you want. Rack that piece in front (locked and loaded) and then crack-a go-go. I'll even place the draw on piece as well (at the rest). Minimize any wasted effort. Plug the piece, clip, and gun it for the next rest. I'm about 85% successful in getting the right placement the first time. Takes practice but this is what it is all about, right?


capn_morgan


May 11, 2004, 6:29 PM
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Climb More

this relativly simple process will help you iron out the kinks in your systems faster than a million opnionated "I think this is the best way...." posts. And hell, its alot more fun than reading those million posts eh?


bostonclimbah


May 11, 2004, 7:05 PM
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Re: help with speeding up placements [In reply to]
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Though there is no substitute for experience, you can certainly help your self by practicing on the ground.

Pick a spot on the rock you can reach from the ground and try placing pieces, 3 at a time (discarding them as you go) until you cycle through all of the possible configurations on your rack. When you finish, start again.

-Place 3 pieces
-Remove them and place them aside
-Rinse and repeat

*** Place draws and practice clipping as you go. You can do the same drill to practice building/adjusting anchors.

My instructor taught me this and I've found it helpful in terms of finding the right piece the first time.

BTW, Vegas is right. Don't mess with gear in the crux. Think ahead, look around and evaluate the route.


tahoe_rock_master


May 11, 2004, 9:09 PM
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In reply to:
place solid gear before and after the crux. not during.


This is definitely the right way to do it. You can usually get in better placments, with much less stress, and pump. I also agree with capn_morgan. Climb more. It will come with more experiance. I have just had this breakthrough last weekend. Have fun.

Matt


ikellen


May 11, 2004, 9:44 PM
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Just as you would look ahead on the route for what your next moves might be, you also should consider what kind of gear you want to place. While it's hard to gage whether the area around the placement is good, you can gage what size gear and what piece, whether a cam, nut, or hex you would logically place.

In terms of racking, some people are really picky on how they rack, other's don't care. I would say on single pitch cragging, it's worth it to do a little organizing of your rack before you climb, as it's not like your on a multi-pitch where time might be important. If you are organized, once you get a clue what kind of piece you might want to place ahead, you will also know where it is.


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