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whatsupdoc
May 17, 2004, 11:51 PM
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Registered: Dec 19, 2002
Posts: 312
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So I want to give aiding a try (actually I've led a few pitches at the local crag with friends gear) and I was looking to buy some basic gear--specifically aiders and daisies (I have 2 ascenders). So what do you guys suggest...old style webbing loop aiders or the new ladder style, like Yates big wall ladders? How many of the ladder style do you suggest?
And what about adjustable daisies vs regular?
Thanks much.
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mingleefu
May 19, 2004, 6:27 AM
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Registered: May 24, 2003
Posts: 466
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Bump, and...
I want to get on some routes that involve "clean" aid. Does clean aid include the use of a couple hook moves? Which hooks would be most useful on easy (c1, c2) routes that might require a hook move or two? (talon, cliffhanger, grappling hook, camhook..?) My question comes specifically with South Face, Washington Column in mind, but I'd like to be prepared to do other Clean aid routes too. My trip is in about a month and I want to practice hooking near the ground before it really counts.
Thanks.
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russwalling
May 19, 2004, 6:40 AM
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Registered: Jun 12, 2002
Posts: 239
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To both you guys:
Aiders... borrow or get regular style. Ladder style are good and heavy and comfy and expensive.
Hooks: bring a talon... best all around choice. Skip the rest. Maybe a regular Chouinard
Daisy chains: get one of each, regular and adjustable. See what you like. 94.3% chance you will declare aid climbing bogus, boring, too scary, or too hard and all the stuff will be on Ebay anyway....
good luck,
Russ
Edit Added: on a side note, I have a bunch of old aiders, 4 steps, the odd five step, maybe a few seconds etc. Email me, (not the PM stufff) and you can have them for basically shipping... $10 per pair total at your door. I'll pick out the best ones for that first come first served kinda thing... some are slightly used or might be a prototype/sample. Nutshell: you will have a pair of aiders to goof around with for 10 bucks. Like it? Lets go....!
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epic_ed
May 19, 2004, 7:31 AM
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Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 4724
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I know our search feature sucks, but look just a few pages back and you'll see we discuss the daisey topic with some regularity. In summary, most people prefer the adjustables, but the standard pocketed daiseys have their place -- and a loyal following.
Other stuff for starters? Knee pads, wall gloves (I prefer open fingers), and a chest harness. If you decide that aid is a game you want to play more in-depth and you set your sights on some grade IV or V stuff, then you'll want to work a comfy wall harness into the mix.
Other than that, combine gear resources with your buddies. Work on putting together as much small gear as possible. It seems you can never have enough small cams. If you're going to be climbing on granite (Yosemite, in particular) you'll find that Hybrid Aliens, HB Offset nuts, and cam hooks (buy Leeper) rule.
And that's one very cool offer from Russ. Speaking from first hand experience, dude makes some quality aid gear.
Ed
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