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wyattearp
Apr 29, 2004, 3:57 AM
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so its 13d according to the rest of the world, but we will let it slide so the locals can boost their ego's
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holdplease2
Apr 29, 2004, 5:00 AM
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I love the statement that people are not trying to repeat the nose free "out of respect for Lynn."
mmmm, k.
-Kate.
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filmprimate
Apr 29, 2004, 5:50 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: That's generally why we don't group sport and trad climbs together.. trad- Lynn Hill, The Nose Sport- Josune B. - Bain de Sang Onsight- Katie Brown, ( some 5.13d at the Red River Gorge) Boulder- V12( Josune, Lisa Rands, and that British woman whose name I can't remember at this time) I'm guessing the British woman you speak of is Claire Murphy.
Yeah, that's the one..
When I mention V12 for the bouldering, I don't consider endurance problems to be in the same category.
And yes, Katie Brown has climbed .14a. .13d is the hardest onsight by a woman.
Also of note were the other women who have climbed 14.. Robyn Erbesfield, Lynn Hill, Beth Rodden, and a few others whose names aren't coming to me at the moment.
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kalcario
Apr 29, 2004, 6:05 AM
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*Robyn Erbesfield, Lynn Hill, Beth Rodden, and a few others whose names aren't coming to me at the moment.*
I'm guessing there's around 20-25 women who have done a 14a or harder now.
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filmprimate
Apr 29, 2004, 2:30 PM
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The first few are the ones that matter.. :P
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madmax
Apr 30, 2004, 5:51 PM
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Without a doubt the hardest climb by a woman is Lynn Hill's one day ascent of the Nose. Hill's ascent is far more impressive then some 5.14 sport route. And from what I've heard, Hill's grade of .13+ ain't soft, evinced by the fact that it hasn't been repeated. And it hasn't been repeated not out of some intangible "respect" for Hill, but because it's fucking hard!
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bustloose
May 19, 2004, 6:05 PM
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it hasn't been repeated because no one else can get their fingers in the crack. some have said that pitch cannot be climbed free if you don't have little wee fingers... does this detract from Lynn's accomplishment, no, not one bit... but it goes a long way to explaining why it has been repeated... the Hubers, potter and many many others are easily far more skilled climbers, but can't send that pitch...
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hasbeen
May 19, 2004, 6:59 PM
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Just to fuel this a little more, don't forget The Nose has been freed by Scott Burke. Sure, he took 200-some odd climbing days to do it; was only able to free the roof via toperope or yo-yo, took a different line in the Changing Corners (still freed the pitch), and called it 14a, to which Lynn said, "no way".
Anyway, The Nose is repeatable by big people, yet hasn't been done. Very impressive indeed. Lynn is rad.
But...
Bang de Sang is light years harder than anything else done by a woman, movement wise. None of those other women climbing 5.14(a) are anywhere close.
I don't think one can necessarily be called harder than the other. As for who could repeat the other's accomplishment, history would have us go with the sportclimber, and the younger climber. I think Lynn has mental toughness on par with the greatest athletes of all time and would never count her out of anything she put her mind to. At this stage, however, I would bet on the Basque and not the mom.
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rockprodigy
May 24, 2004, 8:34 PM
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I think it's interesting to note that Yuji Hirayama attempted the nose and felt it was too hard. Keep in mind that he came one fall from on-sighting the Salathe, and is regarded by some as the best all-around rock climber in the world.
I still think the Nose will be repeated before another woman climbs 14d. My money is on Rodden. She has the small fingers, and spends more time in the Valley than any other hardwoman. The question is, does she care?
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hasbeen
May 24, 2004, 9:22 PM
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Beth's been injured for quite some time but she won't be injured forever. I think she cares. I think you may be right. We'll see...
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iamthewallress
May 24, 2004, 9:31 PM
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http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?m=38182&f=0&b=0
Anyone consider the effect of a stubby finger on sending the great roof?
To my untrained eye, the crux of the Nipple looks similar (more undercling-y, but similar foot options and similar size jams) to the crux of the Great Roof except without a long enduro stretch of 11d to get your blood flowing before hand.
Maybe this is the year?
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sticky_fingers
May 24, 2004, 9:36 PM
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In reply to: Beth's been injured for quite some time but she won't be injured forever. I think she cares. I think you may be right. We'll see... |
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