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nealric
May 19, 2004, 5:11 AM
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So I was looking through the books In my room (no idea where most came from) and stumbles across the boook "how do they do that"
One section was: how do climbers scale sheer rock faces.
A few jiucy ecxerpts 8^)
"Some steep faces may require a courte-echelle, in which the lead climber uses his companions to reach a hold."
"The most astonishing feat of the truly great climbers is known as balance or rythm climbing. By some uncanny law of nature, a master cragsman can move quickly up the rock, using terrifyingly narrow ledges and tiny finger holds if he maintains his motion, which creates friction with the rock (LOL!), and if he is on his way to counterbalancing position."
"prussiking is an elaborate process for extremely difficult climbs. Pitons are hammered in at every step, more ropes added between climbers, and a sling-and-pulley system using prussik knots..."
Amazing, so Ive been doing it wrong the whole time. I bet I could send v12 if I started using a coute-echelle :shock:.
I really wish I knew how to use this method so I could free el cap instead of prussicing it.
And if I could just figure out how continuous movement creates more friction I would be set.
Note copyright date is 1982- so ancientness is not an excuse
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johnnord
May 19, 2004, 5:18 AM
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If they can make movies like "Vertical Limits" and "Cliffhanger" there is no limit on the nonsense that can be produced about climbing. I want to know where I can buy the bolt gun that Sly used. Awesome!
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karmaklimber
May 19, 2004, 6:24 AM
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In reply to: By some uncanny law of nature...
I find that, by itself, pretty humorous :lol:
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coldclimb
May 19, 2004, 6:39 AM
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lol, looks like they did some good research for that book.
I should go write a book, asking questions that I've always wondered about, and them answering them myself with guesses, making them sound like they are fact. Hmm.... There could be easy money in this....
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overlord
May 19, 2004, 6:50 AM
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:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
that was great. but they didnt answer the mother of all nonsense climbing questions: "how do they get the rope up there??? :? "
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skiorclimb
May 19, 2004, 9:42 AM
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You learn something new every day!
Now do you always use sharp points on your grappling hook?
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shakylegs
May 19, 2004, 1:45 PM
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In reply to: "Some steep faces may require a courte-echelle, in which the lead climber uses his companions to reach a hold."
There's a climb or two in the Gunks where the starting moves were done this way. I think "Classic" (5.7) was one of them.
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taualum23
May 19, 2004, 1:53 PM
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Hi, I am a new climber and would you please tell me agood book for me to learn courte-echelle? I tried using my partner as a foothold but he yelled at me. So, instead, I tied a prussick knot to the rope, but it didnt help, because I was on lead, and so I hammered in pitons every step of the way, and finished the climb people were looking at me funny, but hey, it was hard V1 is no joke! Now I am a good leader, but still need to know courte-echelle, becasue the book says so.
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oldsalt
May 19, 2004, 2:00 PM
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I understand that the courte-echelle is particularly unpopular at Ouray. I guess it is the crampons.
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climboard
May 19, 2004, 2:02 PM
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The courte echelle was once a common accepted practice. Norman Clyde used it on the first ascent of Thunderbolt peak I believe.
Climbers would form a human pyramid at the base of a climb when there were no start holds available or someone would stand on another's shoulders to get past a tough section.
I believe it is still practiced in some areas- Elbsandstein comes to mind.
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taualum23
May 19, 2004, 2:07 PM
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climboard, hemp ropes were once state of the art. This book is from 82.
The ethic in Elbsandstein also says no metal protection can be used int eh rock, and leaders only use knot-jams and threads, f I am correct about the area.
Still, if I was writing a short blurb about climbing, it would absiolutely be a technique I would include to give the masses a better understanding of the activity.
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sarcat
May 19, 2004, 2:53 PM
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In reply to: Climbers would form a human pyramid at the base of a climb.
I better get me some cheerleaders and buy a ton more pitons.... Can I attach a rope to a 12 ga. slug to "get it up there" ???
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kingjawsh
May 19, 2004, 3:37 PM
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Maybe... but how are you gonna get the grappleing hook up?...
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sarcat
May 19, 2004, 3:40 PM
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Humm... like the orcs did in "Return of the King" Or tie it to a cat and send it up providing that someone dosen't snag it for offwidth pro.
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justcuz
May 19, 2004, 5:48 PM
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I think you could use the courte echelle technique at Smith. Or is that why they invented the stick-clip?
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tim
May 19, 2004, 6:36 PM
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In reply to: Climbers would form a human pyramid at the base of a climb when there were no start holds available or someone would stand on another's shoulders to get past a tough section. I believe it is still practiced in some areas
yeah, it's popular among the inmates at Abu Ghraib too
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crazygirl
May 19, 2004, 6:46 PM
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Next time I can't reach the first hold, I'll stand on my partner's shoulders. She won't mind, i'm sure.
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shakylegs
May 19, 2004, 6:47 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Climbers would form a human pyramid at the base of a climb when there were no start holds available or someone would stand on another's shoulders to get past a tough section. I believe it is still practiced in some areas yeah, it's popular among the inmates at Abu Ghraib too
Do you think they use static or dynamic leashes?
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jhump
May 19, 2004, 7:35 PM
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I have walked past "New Fangled Dangle" at the New for years, wondering how to get through the opening roof into the dihedral. Now it is all so clear. I will take my fattest partner and mantle him.
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noshoesnoshirt
May 19, 2004, 7:43 PM
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In reply to: I have walked past "New Fangled Dangle" at the New for years, wondering how to get through the opening roof into the dihedral. Now it is all so clear. I will take my fattest partner and mantle him.
slot a fist jam and throw a leg up over it; once you have a nice thigh jam remove the fist and wiggle up into the crack
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vivalargo
May 20, 2004, 12:08 AM
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In reply to: I should go write a book, asking questions that I've always wondered about, and them answering them myself with guesses, making them sound like they are fact.
Though this is not the way most books are composed, most of us, most all the time, talk to each other using this very technique. Ridiculous, but true a lot of the time.
JL
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coclimber26
May 20, 2004, 12:47 AM
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I have a trained monkey..they are very expensive and a bit tempermental..He has a personality of his own and he is taking a time out on top of the rock right now..try not to spook him.
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galt
May 20, 2004, 1:55 AM
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Ode' to Bolt Guns...
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