Forums: Climbing Information: General:
A good laugh: How do they do that
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for General

Premier Sponsor:

 
First page Previous page 1 2 Next page Last page  View All


nealric


May 18, 2004, 10:11 PM
Post #1 of 30 (3688 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 20, 2004
Posts: 147

A good laugh: How do they do that
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

So I was looking through the books In my room (no idea where most came from) and stumbles across the boook "how do they do that"

One section was: how do climbers scale sheer rock faces.
A few jiucy ecxerpts 8^)

"Some steep faces may require a courte-echelle, in which the lead climber uses his companions to reach a hold."

"The most astonishing feat of the truly great climbers is known as balance or rythm climbing. By some uncanny law of nature, a master cragsman can move quickly up the rock, using terrifyingly narrow ledges and tiny finger holds if he maintains his motion, which creates friction with the rock (LOL!), and if he is on his way to counterbalancing position."

"prussiking is an elaborate process for extremely difficult climbs. Pitons are hammered in at every step, more ropes added between climbers, and a sling-and-pulley system using prussik knots..."

Amazing, so Ive been doing it wrong the whole time. I bet I could send v12 if I started using a coute-echelle :shock:.
I really wish I knew how to use this method so I could free el cap instead of prussicing it.
And if I could just figure out how continuous movement creates more friction I would be set.

Note copyright date is 1982- so ancientness is not an excuse


johnnord


May 18, 2004, 10:18 PM
Post #2 of 30 (3688 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 1, 2003
Posts: 162

Re: A good laugh: How do they do that [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

If they can make movies like "Vertical Limits" and "Cliffhanger" there is no limit on the nonsense that can be produced about climbing. I want to know where I can buy the bolt gun that Sly used. Awesome!


karmaklimber


May 18, 2004, 11:24 PM
Post #3 of 30 (3688 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 15, 2003
Posts: 363

Re: A good laugh: How do they do that [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
By some uncanny law of nature...

I find that, by itself, pretty humorous :lol:


Partner coldclimb


May 18, 2004, 11:39 PM
Post #4 of 30 (3688 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 14, 2002
Posts: 6909

Re: A good laugh: How do they do that [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

lol, looks like they did some good research for that book.

I should go write a book, asking questions that I've always wondered about, and them answering them myself with guesses, making them sound like they are fact. Hmm.... There could be easy money in this....


overlord


May 18, 2004, 11:50 PM
Post #5 of 30 (3688 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120

Re: A good laugh: How do they do that [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

that was great. but they didnt answer the mother of all nonsense climbing questions: "how do they get the rope up there??? :? "


Partner tim


May 19, 2004, 12:46 AM
Post #6 of 30 (3688 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 4, 2002
Posts: 4861

Re: A good laugh: How do they do that [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
"how do they get the rope up there??? :? "

grappling hook, obviously.


skiorclimb


May 19, 2004, 2:42 AM
Post #7 of 30 (3688 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 15, 2003
Posts: 169

Re: A good laugh: How do they do that [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

You learn something new every day!

Now do you always use sharp points on your grappling hook?


shakylegs


May 19, 2004, 6:45 AM
Post #8 of 30 (3688 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 20, 2001
Posts: 4774

Re: A good laugh: How do they do that [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
"Some steep faces may require a courte-echelle, in which the lead climber uses his companions to reach a hold."

There's a climb or two in the Gunks where the starting moves were done this way. I think "Classic" (5.7) was one of them.


Partner taualum23


May 19, 2004, 6:53 AM
Post #9 of 30 (3688 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 13, 2002
Posts: 2370

Re: A good laugh: How do they do that [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Hi, I am a new climber and would you please tell me agood book for me to learn courte-echelle? I tried using my partner as a foothold but he yelled at me. So, instead, I tied a prussick knot to the rope, but it didnt help, because I was on lead, and so I hammered in pitons every step of the way, and finished the climb people were looking at me funny, but hey, it was hard V1 is no joke! Now I am a good leader, but still need to know courte-echelle, becasue the book says so.


Partner oldsalt


May 19, 2004, 7:00 AM
Post #10 of 30 (3688 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 19, 2004
Posts: 919

Re: A good laugh: How do they do that [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I understand that the courte-echelle is particularly unpopular at Ouray. I guess it is the crampons.


Partner climboard


May 19, 2004, 7:02 AM
Post #11 of 30 (3688 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 10, 2001
Posts: 503

Re: A good laugh: How do they do that [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

The courte echelle was once a common accepted practice. Norman Clyde used it on the first ascent of Thunderbolt peak I believe.

Climbers would form a human pyramid at the base of a climb when there were no start holds available or someone would stand on another's shoulders to get past a tough section.

I believe it is still practiced in some areas- Elbsandstein comes to mind.


Partner taualum23


May 19, 2004, 7:07 AM
Post #12 of 30 (3688 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 13, 2002
Posts: 2370

Re: A good laugh: How do they do that [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

climboard, hemp ropes were once state of the art. This book is from 82.
The ethic in Elbsandstein also says no metal protection can be used int eh rock, and leaders only use knot-jams and threads, f I am correct about the area.
Still, if I was writing a short blurb about climbing, it would absiolutely be a technique I would include to give the masses a better understanding of the activity.


sarcat


May 19, 2004, 7:53 AM
Post #13 of 30 (3688 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 22, 2004
Posts: 1560

Re: A good laugh: How do they do that [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
Climbers would form a human pyramid at the base of a climb.

I better get me some cheerleaders and buy a ton more pitons.... Can I attach a rope to a 12 ga. slug to "get it up there" ???


kingjawsh


May 19, 2004, 8:37 AM
Post #14 of 30 (3688 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 5, 2004
Posts: 90

Re: A good laugh: How do they do that [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Maybe... but how are you gonna get the grappleing hook up?...


sarcat


May 19, 2004, 8:40 AM
Post #15 of 30 (3688 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 22, 2004
Posts: 1560

Re: A good laugh: How do they do that [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Humm... like the orcs did in "Return of the King" Or tie it to a cat and send it up providing that someone dosen't snag it for offwidth pro.


justcuz


May 19, 2004, 10:48 AM
Post #16 of 30 (3688 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 17, 2004
Posts: 7

Re: A good laugh: How do they do that [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I think you could use the courte echelle technique at Smith. Or is that why they invented the stick-clip?


Partner tim


May 19, 2004, 11:36 AM
Post #17 of 30 (3688 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 4, 2002
Posts: 4861

Re: A good laugh: How do they do that [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
Climbers would form a human pyramid at the base of a climb when there were no start holds available or someone would stand on another's shoulders to get past a tough section.

I believe it is still practiced in some areas

yeah, it's popular among the inmates at Abu Ghraib too


Partner tim


May 19, 2004, 11:37 AM
Post #18 of 30 (3688 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 4, 2002
Posts: 4861

Re: A good laugh: How do they do that [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
Maybe... but how are you gonna get the grappleing hook up?...

shoot it out of my bolt gun


crazygirl


May 19, 2004, 11:46 AM
Post #19 of 30 (3688 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 27, 2003
Posts: 595

Re: A good laugh: How do they do that [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Next time I can't reach the first hold, I'll stand on my partner's shoulders. She won't mind, i'm sure.


shakylegs


May 19, 2004, 11:47 AM
Post #20 of 30 (3688 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 20, 2001
Posts: 4774

Re: A good laugh: How do they do that [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
In reply to:
Climbers would form a human pyramid at the base of a climb when there were no start holds available or someone would stand on another's shoulders to get past a tough section.

I believe it is still practiced in some areas

yeah, it's popular among the inmates at Abu Ghraib too

Do you think they use static or dynamic leashes?


jhump


May 19, 2004, 12:35 PM
Post #21 of 30 (3688 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 7, 2002
Posts: 602

Re: A good laugh: How do they do that [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I have walked past "New Fangled Dangle" at the New for years, wondering how to get through the opening roof into the dihedral. Now it is all so clear. I will take my fattest partner and mantle him.


noshoesnoshirt


May 19, 2004, 12:43 PM
Post #22 of 30 (3688 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 24, 2002
Posts: 440

Re: A good laugh: How do they do that [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
I have walked past "New Fangled Dangle" at the New for years, wondering how to get through the opening roof into the dihedral. Now it is all so clear. I will take my fattest partner and mantle him.

slot a fist jam and throw a leg up over it; once you have a nice thigh jam remove the fist and wiggle up into the crack


vivalargo


May 19, 2004, 5:08 PM
Post #23 of 30 (3688 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 25, 2002
Posts: 1512

Re: A good laugh: How do they do that [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
I should go write a book, asking questions that I've always wondered about, and them answering them myself with guesses, making them sound like they are fact.

Though this is not the way most books are composed, most of us, most all the time, talk to each other using this very technique. Ridiculous, but true a lot of the time.

JL


coclimber26


May 19, 2004, 5:47 PM
Post #24 of 30 (3688 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 8, 2002
Posts: 928

Re: A good laugh: How do they do that [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I have a trained monkey..they are very expensive and a bit tempermental..He has a personality of his own and he is taking a time out on top of the rock right now..try not to spook him.


galt


May 19, 2004, 6:55 PM
Post #25 of 30 (3688 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 3, 2002
Posts: 267

Re: A good laugh: How do they do that [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Ode' to Bolt Guns...

First page Previous page 1 2 Next page Last page  View All

Forums : Climbing Information : General

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook