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What to do w/ top quickdraw on lead climb when repel down
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nolan14


May 21, 2004, 5:30 PM
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What to do w/ top quickdraw on lead climb when repel down
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A freind and I were going to go on a lead climb then repel down, we can remove oll the pro on the way down exept the top quickdraw that we rap on what can I do to get it down?


cjcalls


May 21, 2004, 5:32 PM
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Re: What to do w/ top quickdraw on lead climb when repel dow [In reply to]
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You resting the anchors.
BUT if you really needed to ask this question then you need to find someone who can show you the ropes.
Darwin rules. :twisted:


valeberga


May 21, 2004, 6:29 PM
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Re: What to do w/ top quickdraw on lead climb when repel dow [In reply to]
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You're supposed to leave it there, then the booty faerie comes and takes it, and leaves you with jack shit.

BTW the poster above me probably meant "restring."


maculated


May 21, 2004, 6:32 PM
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Re: What to do w/ top quickdraw on lead climb when repel dow [In reply to]
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Texas rope trick.

Rappel. Rappel.


lovesclimbing


May 21, 2004, 6:35 PM
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Re: What to do w/ top quickdraw on lead climb when repel dow [In reply to]
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I don't really understand the question but, if there are trees that can make stuable anchors you could use those, right now is when the treehuggers start blasting away, you could start carrying some escape biners (found booty/ cheapes/ screw gates that you can by in a hardwear store), or webbing/cord.


forbin


May 21, 2004, 6:40 PM
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Re: What to do w/ top quickdraw on lead climb when repel dow [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Rappel. Rappel.

Thanks Kristin, that makes me crazy too.


jhump


May 21, 2004, 6:51 PM
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Re: What to do w/ top quickdraw on lead climb when repel dow [In reply to]
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First, sit down and eat the hotdogs that you brought with you to the crag. Be sure to save some for pro. They make a killer tube chock.

Next, thank God that your stupidity of rapping off a single draw didn't kill you. It was probably a toy biner draw that you left up there.

Then, quit climbing forever.

Finally, roll home to your PC and troll your arse off.


powen


May 21, 2004, 9:27 PM
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Re: What to do w/ top quickdraw on lead climb when repel dow [In reply to]
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Little buddy,

If you're not a troll, please tell me that you've gotten some help, a mentor or at least just a responsible adult to help you out in this climbing endeavour.

Please PM me if you have any questions or concerns, because I'm sure there are plenty of people concerned and/or miffed with some of these posts at the moment. I'm pretty new to climbing myself, and I've been doing it for over two years.

If you are a troll, PM me anyways, and I can tell you how I really feel:)

Patrick


bandycoot


May 21, 2004, 9:40 PM
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Re: What to do w/ top quickdraw on lead climb when repel dow [In reply to]
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Please stop posting these moronic questions. You've already established you have NO gear in other threads so you obviously don't have quick draws. If you are planning on leading, you probably have a dynamic rope and if you have one of those (~$100) why don't you have other gear? I call BS. You're lying. Go play somewhere else. Stupid troll...

(On the off chance you're not a troll, spend some time flipping through forums and reading, and reading, and reading. You'll learn a lot. Just stop making a fool of yourself and posting stupid questions over and over and over. You have no business climbing outdoors.)


nolan14


May 22, 2004, 6:19 AM
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Re: What to do w/ top quickdraw on lead climb when repel dow [In reply to]
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No i'm not a troll. Just because I can buy rope that doesent neccisarilly mean I have more than that money, whats the texas rope trick or re-slinging? In the original question I meant that we could climbe to an otherwise inoperable place in say the middle of a slab put a quickdrow or something and rap down and not use the bootie fairy to get it down sorry I didn't specify. Thanks :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D


redpoint73


May 22, 2004, 6:33 AM
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Re: What to do w/ top quickdraw on lead climb when repel dow [In reply to]
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In reply to:
I don't really understand the question but, if there are trees that can make stuable anchors you could use those, right now is when the treehuggers start blasting away, you could start carrying some escape biners (found booty/ cheapes/ screw gates that you can by in a hardwear store), or webbing/cord.

How can you climb for 5 years and have so little idea of what you are talking about?????????

He's asking how to clean the anchors on a sport climb.


vanclimber


May 22, 2004, 6:42 AM
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Re: What to do w/ top quickdraw on lead climb when repel dow [In reply to]
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I don't actually want to be responsible for giving you information that may lead to you doing something unwise, so here's my advice: Buy the book "Sport Climbing" by John Long. That book gives you several options when you are cleaning a single pitch climb.

Other than that I seriously recommend you take an outdoor climbing course with a qualified instructor. I did a quick search for you and came up with http://www.jhmg.com/. I don't know if Jackson Hole is near you, but you could probably give these guys a call and they may hook you up with more info.

peace,
Don


acrophobic


May 22, 2004, 6:48 AM
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Re: What to do w/ top quickdraw on lead climb when repel dow [In reply to]
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nolan14, if you do not know how to clean a sport route i wouldsuggest one of the 3 options

1) stick to bouldering

2) Take a course and learn how to

3) research these forums, find a good summary of the proccedure and practice it on a chain link fence untill you can do it without pause.

Otherwise we might be seeing another accident thread appear and another crag labled "dangerous" under the ever so often ignorant public eye.


NEVER abseil off a single quickdraw, or even a single bolt (unless you are retreating) if you don't have to.

Learn how you set an anchor
Learn how to use a prussik
Learn how to escape belay
Learn how to clean

or kill yourself... simple as that :P


climbajd


May 22, 2004, 7:24 AM
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Re: What to do w/ top quickdraw on lead climb when repel dow [In reply to]
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I agree - if you don't understand that you can rappel off fixed gear then you should leave an offering to the climbing gods. What are you doing out there? And never rap off a single anchor point, jeez!!!!!!


powrslave


May 22, 2004, 7:45 AM
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Re: What to do w/ top quickdraw on lead climb when repel dow [In reply to]
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1.) use a couple of spare quick draws with locking biners to anchor yourself directly into the hangers themselves.

2.) unclip rope from the original quick draws and remove them.

3.) untie the rope from your harness and thread it through the hangers, but for god's sake DON'T DROP THE ROPE! Preferably tie a butterfly coil into it and clip that to your harness before undoing the figure 8.

4.) setup for rappel and drop in.

Just tell him how to do it Jesus. What is the difference between learning it on this angryass forum and learning it from someone at the crag?

and finally, I too lowered off of a single bolt hanger once. A nasty storm was coming in and the hair on my arms was tingly from all the lightning. I was so freaked out I couldn't pay attention to wtf I was doing. It was a crappy 1/4" relic bolt too.


acrophobic


May 22, 2004, 7:55 AM
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Re: What to do w/ top quickdraw on lead climb when repel dow [In reply to]
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because powrslave, i have seen on more than one occasion someone screaming at people from the bottom of the climb on how to clean and set.

What if he just followed your steps, but didn't pull enough rope up before tieing a overhand 8. This would not unweight the end enough so it dosn't zip out of his hand after he unties his harness 8 then unclips the overhand.

Ziiiiip!

why are people rolling their eyes? becuase you are diceing with death when you go up not knowing what you are doing.


halcyon


May 22, 2004, 8:07 AM
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Re: What to do w/ top quickdraw on lead climb when repel dow [In reply to]
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Hey, me and my friends were rapping off a number 3 stopper. How do you retrieve it? :twisted:


valeberga


May 22, 2004, 8:12 AM
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Re: What to do w/ top quickdraw on lead climb when repel dow [In reply to]
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Just tell him how to do it Jesus. What is the difference between learning it on this angryass forum and learning it from someone at the crag?

:lol: :lol:


lovesclimbing


May 22, 2004, 12:37 PM
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Re: What to do w/ top quickdraw on lead climb when repel dow [In reply to]
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redpoint73, with out me getting disrespectful, reread the orignal question and than read my post, if you still don't understand how or why I wrote it I will try to spell it out for you through pm so I don't insult you on the forum


Partner climbinginchico


May 23, 2004, 10:47 AM
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Re: What to do w/ top quickdraw on lead climb when repel dow [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Just tell him how to do it Jesus. What is the difference between learning it on this angryass forum and learning it from someone at the crag?

Because this kid is a troll and tries to piss us all off. He thinks of the dumbest possible things and asks questions about them. Just to piss us off. Sad thing- it works :twisted:


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