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badass
May 22, 2004, 3:51 PM
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Registered: Jan 8, 2004
Posts: 228
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This is a two part question for anyone out there. Has anyone ever done an ascent of Doug Reeds Black Flag Direct 5.13b? It has a 5.13a crux down low and then trends right into 5.10ish territory. I am working on linking Black Flag Direct into Skunkpie via a V8 gaston move seperating the two routes. After doing the move you still have to do both cruxes on Skunkpie 5.12. My foot slipped and I fell matching through the V8 move. Has anyone done this before me? The route is at least 5.13c/d but could go as hard as 5.14a. One more for the southeast 8^)
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tripperjm
May 22, 2004, 4:26 PM
Post #3 of 4
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Registered: Jun 7, 2002
Posts: 10650
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Little boy spraying!
HAHAHA!!!1
That was genius!
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socalbolter
May 22, 2004, 4:42 PM
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Registered: Mar 27, 2002
Posts: 796
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without seeing or climbing the route in question, but based on your description, i'd say you're looking at a final route that would be more like solid 13c than 14a. the upper 5.12 moves should be a walk after the lower cruxes and would not really add to the overall grade of the route much.
as you start climbing harder and harder routes you'll realize that the span between grades jumps quite a bit. just because something is harder doesn't necessarily mean it's a different grade.
good luck on your project.
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