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trailbound71
May 25, 2004, 2:43 AM
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Registered: Apr 11, 2004
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I am looking into buying a pair of plastic boots for mixed alpine climbing.Does any one have any suggestions?Most of my climbing will be in Western Canada and Vancouver Island.I wear a size 11 or 11.5 and I usallay have warm feet I hope that is enough info for some feed back Cheers
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alpinerockfiend
May 25, 2004, 2:56 AM
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Subjective, and you'll probably get a whole myriad of responses, but my vote goes towards the lowa civettas. i've climbed tons of ice and mixed in them in Hyalite Canyon, MT and here in the Tetons, and they are grand on all types of terrain, with or without crampons. they may be a little heavy for alpine climbing, but i don't really have anything to compare them to.
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shrubby
May 25, 2004, 3:26 AM
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Registered: Apr 20, 2004
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i have a pair koflach degres. they get the job done. ive done vertical ice in them as well general mountaineering. ive never had cold feet. you can also replace inserts if you get too cold with molded ones. the upgraded version arctics or something like that are supposed to be super warm from what my friend who has them tells me. another friend has la sportica nepals. word on the street is that those boots can do anything. but definitely try on a bunch of different kinds or you are lookin for trouble
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glacierdog
May 25, 2004, 10:39 PM
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Registered: May 18, 2004
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I have koflach artis expe's and they're great, super warm boot, they flex and are great for approaches. they are great for ice climbing with extended front pointing. I've had the degre's as well and the artis expe's are worth the extra money if you are worried about cold feet or you're going on a bid mountain like mckindley or the logan in canada. I bought mine on eBay for half of what they go for in the store new and they had been used only once or twice. Great Boots !!!
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cryder
May 31, 2004, 1:00 AM
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Registered: Oct 14, 2003
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I have a pair of Koflach Degres, and have love love loved them for their versatility. They are very comfortable for approach, and quite warm. Also, they have a genuinely aggressive Vibram tread. Could be a bit stiffer for front pointing, but if they fit well work fine. Removable liners seel the deal when its time to bivvy and you want to wear the liners to dry them out at night. Koflach also does a good job of standing behind their product. I think REI has them on sale too - $167 (smoking good deal).
- n -
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tradbum
Jun 3, 2004, 3:59 AM
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Registered: May 9, 2004
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I've got a pair of Arctis Expe's and they're great.
I usually stick to my Sportiva K2's, as even in -20, I haven't gotten *that* cold in them. They're a little more flexible and versatile as well, and you can swap crampons between them, except for a small size adjustment.
But I do like the liner option that the Expe's offer. They're much easier to dry out in your bag at night as opposed to sleeping with the K2's, and they are much warmer.
And the Expe's do tend to stay in your AT bindings a bit better. (I shift to my Denali's if I know it's a ski down trip, as neither is a whole lot of fun for heading back down. They're both really flexible compared to AT boots.
Hope that helps and that you find what fits you best,
Smitty
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jude
Jun 11, 2004, 1:36 AM
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Registered: Jul 2, 2003
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I like the Arctic Expe, warm, walks well, and does fine on steep ice (haven't tried them on vertical). They're in the middle of a model change and are behind a few months, so you might want to wait.
Jude 8^)
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jimdavis
Jun 11, 2004, 2:53 AM
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Registered: May 1, 2003
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The Expe are the same shell as the Vertical's just 1 size larger. The liner is different and they are designed to accomidate swell at altitude.
So if you have warm feet and want better Ice climbing performance...get the Vertical's. I haven't used mine a whole lot, but I've very very happy with them. Super warm, comfortable hiking, and I felt just fine with them on a stout mixed route. The new ones come with thermofit liners now.
So unless you plan on going somewhere where you need supplimental O2, check out the Vertical's, they'll climb MUCH better than a Degre or an Expe. Degre's are too low and flexible, Expe's are too roomy and probably overkill.
Cheers,
Jim
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