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wallwombat
May 25, 2004, 6:17 AM
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Just out of interest what is everyone's favourite El Cap route and why?
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lambone
May 25, 2004, 4:20 PM
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cool topic
you could argue that there is no "best" El Cap route, they are all good in their own way.
For me it has more to do with my state of mind, and the partner/solo experience.
But if I had to pick one I'd say that the Shield Headwall is probly my favorite spot I have been on on the Captain. I have only done a few routes, but that spot blew meaway! We spent three bivis on it just cause it was so damn cool and we could.
The steep routes I've done (Trip, Zodiac) on the East side were cool too in their own way, I like the different kinds of rock, and features that you observe while climbing over there.
When I finally make it up Mescalito this fall I'm sure it will quickly become my favorite.
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cheekymonkey
May 25, 2004, 5:48 PM
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I like ZM, it's crisp and delicious!
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wallwombat
May 26, 2004, 2:09 AM
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Is this some kind of taboo subject or something? Over a hundred views and only two replies. Sorry I won't mention El Cap again. I'm obviously not worthy.
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dredsovrn
May 26, 2004, 2:22 AM
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In reply to: Is this some kind of taboo subject or something? Over a hundred views and only two replies. Sorry I won't mention El Cap again. I'm obviously not worthy.
I would have been one of those views with no response as I have not had the opportunity to go, or climb there. I don't want you to feel left out, so here is my vote. One of my goals is to free climb Freerider. I am not even close to ready yet, but someday. Not sure how much my vote counts on this one, but there it is.
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epic_ed
May 26, 2004, 2:25 AM
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When I finish a couple, I'll tell ya. :P I can tell you a couple that aren't very fun to bail off of.
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socalbolter
May 26, 2004, 3:11 AM
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the zodiac.
basically, because it's steep and the geometry of the line (corners, roofs, etc.) make it very aesthetic. it's also at a grade that makes it accessible to most interested parties, which i think is a prerequisite for true "classic" status.
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addiroids
May 26, 2004, 5:27 AM
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The Zodiac, because that's all I have done. Next on the list are the Trip (in a push?), NIAD (if my free climbing magically gains about 5 letters), Salathe in 2-3 days, Mescalito in 5-7 days, and many others. My partner's and my goal are do 30 walls (grade IV and above) by the time we are 30 with no repeats other than past bails (5 total). I have 5 years, and he has 3. We will see what happens.
TRADitionally yours,
Cali Dirtbag
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kalcario
May 26, 2004, 5:45 AM
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* My partner's and my goal are do 30 walls (grade IV and above)*
grade IV's are walls? wow, I just went from having done 5 or 6 walls to like 50...
seriously though dude, if you're first big stone route goes in 1 bivy, you'll do 20 of 'em before you know it...
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lambone
May 26, 2004, 5:58 AM
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In reply to: Next on the list are the Trip (in a push?) Cali Dirtbag
Very Do-able, especially with the new bolts. Not very many cruxy sections, just alot of traversing. Maybe smart to fix the first 4, or if that won't do it for ya, climb the LIA/Virginia direct start. I found the first 4 pitches to be pretty slow.
Be in good shape though cause it is STEEP as all hell!
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addiroids
May 26, 2004, 6:00 AM
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I know, Grade IV is a stretch, that's why we will only count those that average parties bivy once on (Spaceshot and moonlight for now). I am almost thinking of taking out Grade IV, but not until we are closer to our 30!!
And thanks for the boost of confidence. We are constantly training for this stuff, in the gym (not climbing ___) and on the rocks. Doing stuff fast is sure fun...okay, it's fun telling your friends about it. Much more like work when you are actually doing it.
TRADitionally yours,
Cali Dirtbag
P.S. To Lambone:
Not to be cocky (at all) but I just don't go for "fixing" anymore. We fixed 3 on the Prow, then finished at 2:30pm. But it was our first speed climb, so we were a bit scared to try it in a push. I hate to jug free hanging lines, and apart from fixing a pitch at night, I just don't see the logic behind it. And I would never do it when going for something in a push. I would rather get more worked than do that. Just a personal style issue.
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the_dude
May 26, 2004, 6:09 AM
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I agree with Lambone, The Shield. That headwall is the most spectacular and scariest place I have ever been. I've had better times on other lines, but being on that bulge way up there is an experience I'll always vividly remember.
Cheers
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mrhardgrit
May 26, 2004, 10:26 AM
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I didn't reply to what was my fave route on El Cap because I wasn't sure if I have done enough routes on there to say!
But anyway, I would definitely say Mescalito so far... Nearly every pitch is excellent and interesting, there are loads of different features, it goes clean, not much loose rock and it lasts for ages and ages and ages! The amount of sun/shade that it gets is pretty ideal as well.
I would definitely like to look at the Shield some time as those top pitchs look AMAZING.
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tedc
May 26, 2004, 2:40 PM
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In reply to: Over a hundred views and only two replies.
Relax dude. 1% is pretty good since I doubt that 1% of this community has climbed at least 2 routes up El Cap. (pre-requisite for a favorite eh.).
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rmiller
May 26, 2004, 2:52 PM
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The Shield Headwall has been the best position on El Cap I have been, but for best overall route, my vote goes to Iron Hawk. Scary hooking, a killer roof, lots of heads, an amazing traverse, and runout free climbing make the route very exciting! Lots of cool pitches and interesting problems. Great route bottom to top.
Ronnie
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russwalling
May 26, 2004, 5:18 PM
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I'll go with Iron Hawk too.... with Mescalito and Zodiac right behind.
Now the worst POS I've done is Horse Chute... hands down.
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areyoumydude
May 27, 2004, 2:23 AM
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Native Son is my favorite so far. Walt Shipley had great vision and that one is a masterpiece.
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bigwallfun
May 29, 2004, 5:48 AM
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Yep, lots of routes on that chunk on stone. The shield is real good on the head wall, sunkist is good, native son is good but the golden finger pitch what a battle. the good thing about the west side is you can get great radio stations sac, s.f. ,sanjose ,ect. the retacent wall is good , new dawn is good,the zodiac is just ok. the N.A. wall not that great, the sheep ranch pretty good Z.M. real good and the list goes on, it's all up to you, you can have a bad time on a good route or you can have a great time on a bad route. :wink:
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coomer
May 30, 2004, 1:33 PM
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In reply to: Z.M. real good
You mean Zenyatta Choss-a-lotta??? That route is a pile. Sorry, I just didn't think that route was very good. Sure the lightning bolt roof was kind of cool, but right next door is the "Shortest Straw" which is WAY cleaner and has much more memorable climbing. Journey through the Brain is very cool.
Disorderly Conduct is pretty damn cool- especially the pitch below the dawn roof- classic! The two "tequila straw" moves are sporty and it climbs the longest section of El Cap- much like the reticent (haven't done that one).
Bailed off Native Son- but that is one of the coolest lines on the captain.
Cheers
e
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joe
May 30, 2004, 3:03 PM
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iron hawk.
the shortest straw is a lot better than it looks, too.
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asandh
May 30, 2004, 4:16 PM
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definitely the Salathe' for all its great free climbable pitches and fun but moderate headwall.
aiding is fun, but nothing like all those free moves up high.
if I ever get on Excaliber maybe I'll switch my pick.
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