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cantclimbforsht
May 3, 2004, 3:14 AM
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i'll be in paris some time this summer, and soon i might move there, so im planning on going to fontainebleau for a day when im there this summer. I won't have a car so whats the best way to get there? Taxi? Rent a car? Train? Also is there any specific area or circuit that you would recomend for a one day trip. (I climb around v3/4). I've heard its pretty hard to find your way around in the forest so is there any guide book or map that i should get. Also any other tips for my first 1 day trip to font would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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bouldering-bumm
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May 3, 2004, 3:24 AM
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TRY KARMA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It is the best problem in the world! Actually, Ive never been there, but I here its the best!
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cantclimbforsht
May 4, 2004, 12:30 AM
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thanks bouldering bumm, thats a start, but some advice from someone who has been there would be nice.
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wonderbread
May 4, 2004, 1:16 AM
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I went to Font for a week or so last fall. It was also my first time. For just a day I would recommend going to Bas Cuvier. Super classic, amazing problems of all grades, and easy to find your way around. I personally wouldn't recommend doing a circuit, I tried and would get distracted by so many other problems not on circuits that I could never complete one. I would recomment warming up on the first 10 or 12 problems of a circuit and then just wander and hop on what looks cool.
Now the car situation-I'd suggest your first goal would be to find someone with a car who wants to drive down and climb with you. If this doesn't work you can either rent a car (easiest but most expensive) or ride the train to font and rent a bike or cab it out to bas cuvier. It's a little ways, probably close to an hour on a bike(though I haven't done this). I rented a car while I was over there and it worked great. And there is an excellent guide called Fontainebleau Climbs by Godaffe (sp?), but it really isn't needed for a day. What is needed is a map of the forest available at the gas stations around font, and probably the gear shops around Paris. Have fun, it's an amazing place, and you're gonna need a whole lot more than one day.
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spoons
May 27, 2004, 4:19 PM
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wonderbread, if you find out any more info on the first time in Font pass it along, I am going next week for about 2 days before I head to Spain and could use any info that you have. Speaking of, I plan on climbing in the Cuvier area those two days, i will be there on the 2nd and 3rd of June, give me a shout if you want to hook up, sounds like we are about the same level. peace.
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sto
May 27, 2004, 4:54 PM
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A car is definitely best. Failing that, take the train from Gare du Lyon to Fontainebleau. Takes about 45 minutes or so. Rent a bike at the train station and go to a gas station and get the 1:25,000 Foret de Fontainebleau map. Climbing areas are marked. Mont Aigu and Mont Ussy are pretty close. If you're walking Rocher Canon is pretty close to the train station before Font, Bois le Rois.
With a car classic areas are Bas Cuvier, Franchard Isatis, Cul de Chien and 95.2, although avoid the last two if it's hot.
At V2-V3 you will generally enjoy the blue and red circuits. For example the hardest problem on the red circuit at Bas Cuvier is Les Bretelles, a 6b (V3). It ain't indoors V3 though. 7b+ sport climbers get spanked on Font 5+. Lower your expectations and your ego will thank you.
The best intro guidebook is by Jackie Godoffe and Jo Montchausee.
Have fun!
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fredrogers
May 27, 2004, 5:05 PM
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Definitely get a car. It's worth the splurge to go to Font. You don't need a guide at Cuvier because most of the boulder problems are marked with paint. Look for Red, Blue, and Yellow problems. Some that are not marked are also great. Just look around. Almost every problem is worth climbing and would be 4 stars at any other area.
What you do need is directions to Font which can be found at http://drtopo.com/bleau.pdf
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deafears
May 27, 2004, 5:08 PM
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sto (above) has good advice ... Apremont is very good too, across the road from Bas Cuvier and much less crowded. Cuvier Rempart is slightly farther out in the forest than Bas Cuvier and also less crowded. Basically, stay the heck away from Bas Cuvier on weekends!
A car is a huge advantage over hoofing it in Font. It's a big forest -- maybe 10 times the size of Hueco. Dame Juane and the Elephent areas are in the southern part of the forest ... my favorites for moderate problems, but a good 20-minute drive from downtown.
Camping, as you may have heard, is rough. Crowded and expensive in the summer, and closed for much of the rest of the year. Try to find a country hotel (Auberge) rather than satying in town (although I hear the Formula 1 hotel is cheap).
Have fun ... Font will make ANYONE into a boulderer.
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gritstoner
May 27, 2004, 5:42 PM
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the formula 1 hotels are really cheap, although the two nearest are at moret sur loing and anouther village further out, so a car would be needed. although there is a train station in moret.
bas cuvier is worth going if its just a day trip type thing. apremont is also a good place. if youve got a car and a map then l'elephant is also a really good spot.
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spoons
May 30, 2004, 3:59 AM
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Thanks to everyone for the info, sounds like a car is the way to go. what are the general rates, and is it difficult finding your way around?
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mike_the_sumo
May 30, 2004, 6:31 AM
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In reply to: Thanks to everyone for the info, sounds like a car is the way to go. what are the general rates, and is it difficult finding your way around?
We've been using Hertz or EuroCar for car rentals, both are in the mid $200's for a week. You'll see cheap ads for EasyCar but I found them to be a nightmare - low milage limits, car must be returned immaculate or face a huge cleaning charge - it ended up costing more for a cheap rental.
Getting around, I'll second "Fontainbleu Climbs", I got it in English on a trip to London, but I've seen it in the Denver, CO REI so it should be available in the US. It's available in french (obviously) here. That and a topo map will get you to everywhere.
Au Vieux Campeur (www.auvieuxcampeur.fr) is the gear store here, it's around rue d'Ecoles in the 5th. They have most everything, though with the VAT its way more expensive than the US, though cheaper than London.
As for moving here, Bon Chance. I'm just winding up 2.5 years here. If you're here long term, check out the French mountain club, they have hiking, bouldering and tech climbing trips everywhere. Try Googling "Club Alpine Francias - Ile de France".
Hope this helps.
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