|
tradrat
Apr 25, 2002, 6:55 AM
Post #1 of 7
(1921 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 8, 2002
Posts: 22
|
Hey Everyone,
I was wondering if people had any route recomendation where one can practice aid climbing around the Tahoe area, or in the Valley. Obviously any crack that you can't free would work, but to narrow down the question what routes/cracks would work well in preparation for the South Face of the Column?
|
|
|
|
|
passthepitonspete
Apr 25, 2002, 7:23 PM
Post #2 of 7
(1921 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2001
Posts: 2183
|
I am not very familiar with practice aid climbs in Yosemite, but I can tell you that I was able to work out my solo systems well enough to succeed on the Big Stone by practising on a two-pitch crack climb here in Ontario.
In fact, I would recommend you practise on a climb that you CAN free. It doesn't matter whether it's a "free" climb or not as much as it matters that the crackline be continuous.
The best way you can get ready for the Column is to go practise aiding cracks - any cracks! Get your systems dialled, and learn to move smoothly and as quickly as possible.
ANY free climbing crack is PERFECT.
I have held big wall tutorials on the Aid Crack and on Lena's Layback on Swan Slab, just a couple minutes' walk from Camp 4.
You can learn a lot on routes like that!
Maybe some of the Valley Rats more familiar with the free routes than me can offer some suggestions.
When I show up in Yosemite, I disappear onto the Big Stone virtually immediately, at least as soon as I line up a few sherpas to help me get all my stuff up there!
I mean, there is a fee required for my Mini Big Wall Tutorials, eh?
Cheers,
Dr. Piton
|
|
|
|
|
cracksniffer
Apr 25, 2002, 7:38 PM
Post #3 of 7
(1921 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 25, 2002
Posts: 89
|
Why not skip that pile and do the West face of Leaning Tower for your first wall? I tried and failed 3 times to do the south face. The first time my partner got nailed by rock-fall on Dinner Ledge (the route can be a bowling alley for rocks, wear a helmet!). The second time it rained hard during the freeclimbing near the top, and the last time the route was too crowded. While you will likely encounter other parties on the Tower, their dropped gear won't hit you, you won't get quite as hot (debatable), and the hauling is MUCH easier. The aid on both routes is easy, although I remember the pitch after the Kor roof on the Column as being more tricky than anything on the Tower, provided there aren't any blown rivets or heads. I would worry more about having you and your partner's jumaring techniques down. Many parties are slowed down or defeated because they don't know how to clean the traversing sections on both routes.
|
|
|
|
|
addiroids
Apr 25, 2002, 9:32 PM
Post #4 of 7
(1921 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 11, 2001
Posts: 1046
|
I would have to second that notion to do West Face. The approach is just as easy (do it EARLY so you stay cool). The aiding is really clean, and there is like no rock fall. Besides the hauling is super easy since almost the entire route overhangs. Be sure to fix 5 and 6 or you will be climbing at night on day 2. But the ledge at the top is really nice. Bigger than Awanahee ledge. Learn to clean with a gri-gri too.
TRADitionally yours,
Cali Dirtbag
|
|
|
|
|
dsafanda
Apr 25, 2002, 9:46 PM
Post #5 of 7
(1921 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2002
Posts: 1025
|
Read Chris Mac's "Road to the Nose" guidebook. It's got some good suggestions in terms of single pitch aid climbs at the base of ElCap as well as long free routes that will whip you in to shape.
|
|
|
|
|
krustyklimber
Apr 26, 2002, 12:49 AM
Post #6 of 7
(1921 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 25, 2002
Posts: 1650
|
Cracksniffer,
Great post! Having done both, I agree wholeheartedly! The Leaning Tower is so much better than The Column, I'll never climb the South Face of anything again!
A good place to learn/practice climbing on overhanging terrain is on the La Conte Boulder, in the Valley near the laundromat!
Get your "cleaning on traverses" down before you try either wall,and get your jugging systems fully dailed then you should be O.K.
Good luck
Jeff
|
|
|
|
|
tradrat
May 6, 2002, 6:40 AM
Post #7 of 7
(1921 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 8, 2002
Posts: 22
|
Hey Everyone,
This is Tradrat-the aspiring wall rat. Just wanted to thank everyone for the beta. See ya in the Valley.
|
|
|
|
|
|
