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jsj42
May 28, 2004, 6:48 PM
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Hardest Trad redpoint: 5.12a
Hardest Sport redpoint: 5.12a
Hardest Trad onsight: 5.11d
Hardest Sport onsight: 5.12a
I guess I need to work on my trad onsighting ability.
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iamthewallress
May 28, 2004, 8:07 PM
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Normalized for the area (i.e. feel-good graded areas not withstanding), I probably have done harder leads on gear...although the hardest have been very "sporty" crag cracks. Why? I'm a better crack climber and have a lot more miles on that sort of thing.
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petsfed
May 28, 2004, 9:28 PM
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No real difference on account of the fact that it doesn't matter to me whether I'm taking a cam or a quickdraw off of my harness.
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wallwombat
May 28, 2004, 11:58 PM
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In reply to: I think if trad routes were bolted, it would even things out.
How did that one sneak through?
Mine are both roughly the same - 5.11a/b - but I've never 'worked' a sport route.
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theboss
May 31, 2004, 1:23 AM
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sport onsight: 5.11d (5.12b redpoint)
trad onsight: 5.10a
Wish we had some harder trad lines over here :cry:
G
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qpang
May 31, 2004, 1:32 AM
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You should clarify whether you are talking about multi-pitch climbs or not. I like climbing 5.9-5.10d sport, and 5.6 - 5.9 trad, however the trad routes are usually multi-pitch routes as well. So if you onsight a certain grade of sport climb, can you do 7 or 8 of those same grades consequtively with no breaks inbetween? That probably accounts for the difference. multi pitch makes the climb harder physically and mentally as you get higher up.
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theboss
May 31, 2004, 1:58 AM
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In reply to: can you do 7 or 8 of those same grades consequtively with no breaks inbetween? |
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ggraham
May 31, 2004, 2:29 AM
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Have been Gym climbing for 3 1/2 years. Outdoors for a year.
Hardest Onsight Trad 10b
Hardest Sport Onsight (had to place bolt plates) 10c
:shock:
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cracklover
Jun 1, 2004, 7:48 PM
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In reply to: Hardest onsights are about one number grade different for me. But I've only been leading a few years, and I expect to narrow that gap. In fact, that gap might disappear completely if all goes well this summer. GO
Well, I didn't get the onsight, but the crack was soaking wet (at least that's my excuse). Anyway, I tried, and I believe I'll probably get the RP next time (especially if the crack is drier). Which would put my hardest sport and trad red points within two letter grades of each other.
Edited to add that after this last weekend, my sport and trad onsights are now just two letter grades apart. Now that I'm in my fourth year of trad leading, I'm beginning to truly push my limit more on trad gear. But only on trade routes.
GO
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send513
Jun 1, 2004, 7:49 PM
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12b vs 5.8, but I have only done gear about 5 times...
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helmut
Jun 1, 2004, 10:37 PM
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Sport lead: 5.8
Trad lead: 5.7
Toprope: 11b
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smellyhippie
Jun 1, 2004, 10:47 PM
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Best Sport on site--11c
Best Trad On-site--11a
Standard Sprt on-site--10d
Standard Trad on site-10c
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rjavery10
Jun 22, 2004, 9:02 AM
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I climb at J Tree so my Sport On Sight elsewhere is 5.10d. At J Tree my Trad on sight is around 5.1. :D
Seriously,
Sport 5.10d
Trad 5.10a
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feedmerocks
Jun 23, 2004, 8:28 PM
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I only climb sport indoors (so far), but:
Hardest (gym) sport lead: 5.10a/b, flash
Typical (gym) sport lead: 5.9ish, onsight
Hardest trad lead: 5.9, hangdog (Maria Direct start)
Hardest trad almost-onsight: 5.8/8+, lost the onsight because of complacent downclimbing below gear and a belayer who didn't give slack ;) (Elder Cleavage overhanging handcrack pitch)
Hardest and stupidest trad onsight: 5.8, R/X the way I did it (?), low-angle thin face (Morning After P3)
Typical trad onsight: 5.6-5.7?
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gambler
Jul 15, 2004, 6:12 AM
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caspian wrote:
In reply to: I think if trad routes were bolted, it would even things out.
I think if sport routes had cracks,it would even things out.
gambler
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hipdos
Jul 15, 2004, 6:22 AM
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24 (11c/d) sport
20 (10b/c) trad
That's a bit embarrassing I guess, but there is a lot more sport around here than trad
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grover
Jul 15, 2004, 6:28 AM
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Sport climbing ???
Whats that?
I climb for money and free beer.
Whats a grade by the way?
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jiadar
Aug 9, 2004, 7:20 PM
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My hardest sport lead = trad lead = 5.9
But I rarley climb sport, maybe once a year.
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hangerlessbolt
Aug 10, 2004, 3:29 PM
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Sport .11b/c
Trad .10b single pitch
Trad .10a multi-pitch
I would conclude that if you're not climbing at least a few letter grades harder in sport than you do on trad...you're not pushing yourself on sport. (ie no gear placement issues, no extra weight in equipment save for a few draws)
Either that, or you haven't hopped on a sport route in a while. ;)
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walt511
Aug 10, 2004, 4:02 PM
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Hardest Sport Lead: 11b
Hardest Trad Lead: 11a
In reply to: I would conclude that if you're not climbing at least a few letter grades harder in sport than you do on trad...you're not pushing yourself on sport
I don't really agree. I like climbing selected, well protected trad climbs that are at my TR/Sport limit. That being said, I'll jump on a hard sport route without a second thought. I give a lot of thought to the hard trad routes I do before racking up.
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hangerlessbolt
Aug 10, 2004, 4:23 PM
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You don't have to agree with me...for me to be right ;)
So you're pulling down .11a's on trad...but only cranking .11b's on sport. Is that because you can't climb harder than .11b or that you haven't taken the time to work on, say, .12a's?
It's not about chasing numbers, I understand that...but given the fact that you're carrying about 7 lbs or so of extra weight, having to take the time to place pro, etc...and you're not pulling down bigger numbers in sport..?
hmmm...
I think if you worked on your technique and gave it a good ol' college try, you could be pushing 12's
...then again, I may be wrong ;)
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kevindubrau
Aug 10, 2004, 4:31 PM
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Hardest Sport: 5.12a/b
Hardest Trad: 5.10b
Two full number grades is a bit embarrassing, but I've only been trad climbing for a short time and I hope to close that gap soon. For me it's a mental thing as well as my poor crack climbing technique (something I'm working on).
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pbjosh
Aug 10, 2004, 4:34 PM
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In reply to: I would conclude that if you're not climbing at least a few letter grades harder in sport than you do on trad...you're not pushing yourself on sport. (ie no gear placement issues, no extra weight in equipment save for a few draws) Either that, or you haven't hopped on a sport route in a while. ;)
While this may be true at some crags, there is no good reason not to climb as hard at Indian Creek as at your local sport crag. The grades generally aren't too sand-baggy and the gear placement is generally no more difficult than clipping draws. If you know how to crack climb as well as you know how to face climb, there's nothing harder about an Indian Creek route than a sport route. This obviously translates to many other splitter cracks that swallow gear in other places.
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hangerlessbolt
Aug 10, 2004, 4:49 PM
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Absolutely, the only difference being in the weight of carrying 15 #2 cams vs 15 QD's...*laughs*
Splitter cracks not-withstanding, most areas will take a bit more planning and forethought (and equipment) as opposed to the standard 'clip-n-go' of sport routes
Not that sport is without it's work...figuring out which clip hold is best while clinging on with your fingernails on a polished, slightly less than verticle slab route...will get the blood flowing for sure
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boadman
Aug 10, 2004, 5:23 PM
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must...resist...instinct...to..spray.
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