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Cyclops... the eye
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rokstahr39


Jun 2, 2004, 12:04 PM
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Cyclops... the eye  (North_America: United_States: California: Joshua_Tree_National_Park: _Joshua_Tree_National_Park_Overview_)
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Has anyone climbed "the eye" on Cyclops in J-tree? Is that really only a 5.1? Just wondering... and thanks :lol:

Becky


alpnclmbr1


Jun 2, 2004, 12:13 PM
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Re: Cyclops... the eye [In reply to]
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I give it 5.4
It is a good first follow or solo. It is not a good beginners lead.

one good first lead is The Bong 5.4


rokstahr39


Jun 2, 2004, 12:21 PM
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Oh good, I feel better... it was my first outside climb, and I was hoping it was harder than a 5.1. Thanks

Becky


alpnclmbr1


Jun 2, 2004, 12:25 PM
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Re: Cyclops... the eye [In reply to]
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If that was your first outdoor climb then most of the routes you going to do next are going to seem a lot easier and less intimidating.

Climb on,
d.


edge


Jun 2, 2004, 12:28 PM
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edge moved this thread from General to Regional Discussions.


joshklingbeil


Jun 2, 2004, 1:07 PM
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That is a fun climb to run up in boots at night ..But the moon never shines on it when im there..


superbum


Jun 2, 2004, 1:17 PM
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Re: Cyclops... the eye [In reply to]
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My guide says it is a 5.3 R

?????what does that even mean??!?!


gds


Jun 2, 2004, 1:18 PM
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Cyclops is 5.4 for sure. Huge jugs but pretty steep. I think its great fun. Also, thought it protects pretty well as I am not much for soloing - but perhaps the climbing was mellow enough so that I wasn't worried about pro.


rokstahr39


Jun 2, 2004, 1:20 PM
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no doubt... it was tons of fun! As I don't lead outside yet, I'll have to take your word for it that it protects well... maybe soon tho!

Becky


alpnclmbr1


Jun 2, 2004, 1:22 PM
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It means it is a route that you do not want to practice falling on.

It protects fine as long as you can solo the 5.1 part.


gds


Jun 2, 2004, 1:27 PM
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In reply to:
It means it is a route that you do not want to practice falling on.

It protects fine as long as you can solo the 5.1 part.

I probably just don't remember. I do tend to run it out on 5.1. Although 5.3 is pretty much my run out grade limit-if I can help it. :)


socalclimber


Jun 2, 2004, 1:54 PM
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Yeah, the R rating is definately accurate. It's a heady lead and climb for beginners since it's pretty vertical. Another classic route that gets no attention or traffic what so ever is just to the right of it. Cerce 5.6. I highly recomend this route as well. Definately not a route for the beginning leader. Gear can be sketchy to find, but it is really, really fun! Great crux move as well.

Robert


slobmonster


Jun 2, 2004, 5:32 PM
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Try the Bong (5.4) on the Blob. Much more straightforward route, not as steep, good gear all the way up. Bring a sling or 2 to leave at the top as the resident slings seem to get chopped...


socalclimber


Jun 2, 2004, 5:43 PM
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The reason the slings on The Bong get chopped all the time is because there is a decent. It requires some checking and looking around, and some careful down climbing, but it's there. Slings and bolts have routinely been chopped out here when they are placed as a convience anchors. Like it or not, the area has it's ethics.

Robert


tahquitztwo


Jun 2, 2004, 6:34 PM
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Re: Cyclops... the eye [In reply to]
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Right on Robert....keep on cleaning up that "trash".....it doesn't make sense to leave behind eyesores when there are walkoffs :D

Regarding Cyclops.....most of the friends I climb with would put it more at 5.5 to 5.6 runout unless you're very good at putting in "iffy" protection.....
I followed it relatively easily but it was definitely harder than 5.4 or the laughingly rated 5.1 in the book. I suspect a lot of stuff has fallen off of it since it was first climbed :shock:


hangerlessbolt


Jun 2, 2004, 6:41 PM
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In reply to:
It requires some checking and looking around, and some careful down climbing, but it's there.

Been a while, but if memory serves it's out to the climber's left, scramble, boulder-hop, repeat until back to the packs...


alpnclmbr1


Jun 2, 2004, 6:58 PM
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Climbers left to the SE corner of the formation (70ft)
Look over the edge and find the cave, drop in and downclimb(exposed 5.1) partly into the original approach chimney. Scramble across the chockstone.


socalclimber


Jun 2, 2004, 7:59 PM
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alpnclmbr1 has it. I can certainly see why that would be a bit scary to the newbie, but hey, it's climbing, get used to it. I've only pulled the slings a couple of times. Mainly when people starting leaving 2 or 3 slings behind as a "backup".

Some of the scariest moments in Josh I've had are the decents.

Robert


bishopclimber


Jun 2, 2004, 9:20 PM
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The Eye used to be rated 5.1. I agree with the 5.3R rating. I only placed three pieces. it is not 5.5 or 5.6.


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