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munckee
Apr 28, 2004, 11:05 PM
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I'm considering stopping in Vedauwoo for a few days on my "tour of wyoming" this summer. Can anyone tell me more about the area?
Is it ALL off widths? What kind of rack is appropriate? What's the camping situation?
Any general beta would be great!
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petsfed
Apr 28, 2004, 11:20 PM
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There are a lot of offwidths, but its not all offwidths. A good general purpose rack is up to a 3.5 camalot, probably doubles in the hand sizes. If you're a real sicko, bring all the way up to #5 camalot, and some big bros. But you can have a good time, do a few offwidths, and never break out the big stuff. Everything is short. More than 2 pitches is usually to deal with rope drag. Camping is free outside of the National Forest Recreation Area. It can get unmercifully windy some days. There are a lot of good finger, hand, and fist cracks out there. And some of the offwidths can be very enjoyable due to exceedingly weird beta (pulling on a foot jam above your head for instance). In addition, JTree style crystal pimping abounds. Some are very runout. Some aren't. Bring lots of tape if you plan on doing any long crack routes other than Edward's Crack. The granite is very similar to that of JTree (although the lower quality rock at Vedauwoo is more similar than the better stuff) so it will chew your hands considerably. Wear pants!
Many routes can be toproped outright, but some must be led (or have an easier route led) to get to the anchors. Do not occupy any route longer than necessary, especially if its purportedly an area classic (and popular). The locals complain about out of towners enough. Don't give legitimacy to our claims.
Some must do routes:
Friday the 13th. A lot of people just do the 5.10- first pitch. All three are worthwhile (5.11)
Edward's Crack. Easy, cruiser, crowded on weekends. With a 60m it can be done in 1 pitch (5.7).
Fantasia. Short, moderate offwidth. Get your feet wet without comitting yourself to a true sufferfest (5.9).
Spectreman. Classic route at an out of the way crag (5.11)
Nat's 3 star roof Crack. 30 foot hand crack boulder problem. Low enough that you don't need pads (V5ish).
Middle Parallel Space. Another good offwidth that turns to chimneying (5.9).
Progressive. Very good hands on first pitch (5.10).
Skull. Wild exposure for the grade (5.10).
Piece of Dirt. Good crystal pimping and not too difficult (5.11).
Finally. Another good offwidth, but with a smaller crack inside to protect with (5.9).
MRC Direct. Area classic with no wide stuff on the entire line. Very obvious and aesthetic (5.9).
Things you should try (if you have the chance and feel like a hardman):
Lucille. The offwidth that comes to most people's minds when they think of Vedauwoo. 30 Foot offwidth roof. Freed less than 10 times (5.13).
Harder Than Your Husband. Often toproped, rarely led. Thin overhanging finger and tips crack near the Nautilus parking lot. Sustained and difficult to get off the ground (5.12).
Space Oddity. Long, hard, thin. 110 feet of crystal pimping with "no moves harder than 5.11" None are easier than 5.11 either (5.12).
Octagon. Controversial, with at most 2 ascents, the first verified one sometime of 2002. Thin, difficult crack climb (5.12).
Maxilash. Offwidth. 5.11, right.
Good books to pick up if you plan on staying a while:
Fat Crack Country - Zach Orenzak
Vedauwoo Bouldering - Davin Bagdonas
Dr. Topo Guide To Vedauwoo Bouldering - drtopo.com
Davin's book is of the office copy machine style. Tuesday afternoon at Corona Village in Laramie has all you can eat tacos for $3. Must be 21. PM me if you need a partner or need to borrow a guidebook.
Edit to add stuff.
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gds
Apr 28, 2004, 11:31 PM
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I'd add Heel and Toe to the guide book list.
I found lots to do other than OW's. Nice short (if confusing) approaches. When I was there (last fall, mid week) it was pretty empty- no waits for anything.
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petsfed
Apr 28, 2004, 11:37 PM
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In reply to: I'd add Heel and Toe to the guide book list. I found lots to do other than OW's. Nice short (if confusing) approaches. When I was there (last fall, mid week) it was pretty empty- no waits for anything.
Heel & Toe is out of print, hard to find, and the second edition hasn't been finished yet.
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gds
Apr 28, 2004, 11:42 PM
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Thanks petsfed! I guess I was lucky to have an old copy. I thought it a good guide except for the description of approaches. I walked in several circles. Luckily the distances were short.
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muni
Apr 29, 2004, 12:16 AM
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If your interested there is also a large quantity of boulders...very undeveloped
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alpinerockfiend
Apr 29, 2004, 12:57 AM
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In reply to: Skull. Wild exposure for the grade (5.10).
Just curious, but what exactly does exposure have to do with grade?
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petsfed
Apr 29, 2004, 2:36 PM
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Sorry, wrong word. Its steep. Very steep for easy 10.
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fredrogers
Apr 29, 2004, 3:00 PM
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Other great pitches that are not OW:
Reynold's Complex:
Pooh Corner, 1st pitch (5.9)
Climb and Punishment (5.9)
Penis Dimension (10c)
Nautilus:
Lower Progressive (5.9)
Flying Buttress (10b)
Captain Nemo, 1st pitch (5.8)
Grand Traverse, 1st pitch (10b)
Max Factor (11c fingers)
Holdout:
Currey's Diagonal (10b)
Beefeater (10b)
Oslunds Delight(5.8)
Lots more info can be found at www.climbingboulder.com
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piton
Apr 29, 2004, 3:17 PM
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whats the climb right of master of the sport, it was like a 5.8 corner? i remember that was fun climb scared me at the top when i led it. fredrogers and pets have some great recommendations. bring tape :D
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nolan14
Jun 4, 2004, 5:19 PM
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No not all offwidths, great slabs and good crack country, watch your fingers and tak\pe up though the crystals are brutal, great for shoes though you can grip really well on some crystals, I would recomend etude for the left hand found on the practice slab. on the rack that you take I would take full trad and don't plan on any sport. some really sweet raps on the oppisite side of nautilis from ps. Look in local book for details.
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roclimb
Jun 4, 2004, 5:32 PM
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There are nice bolted lines there also. The bouldering is pretty good also. there are good problems in the campgrounds. The mushroom boulder when you come in is not to be missed. You have to jump off it for the descent however. On top of Ed's Crack ther eis great bouldering all over the top of th eoutcrop.
Mystery Blocks is a stellar 5.11, a bit of a walk but worth it.
~Rob
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johnhemlock
Jun 4, 2004, 5:34 PM
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Camp anywhere on the road that goes around Nautilus or better yet, hike in and camp near the Valley Massif. It's full of 5.7, 5.8, and 5.9 2 pitch climbs. Vedauwoo is my favorite climbing area - you can't go wrong.
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wes_allen
Jun 4, 2004, 5:38 PM
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Plum line is super sweet, then you can TR think pink
Little John's Tower is cool, not sure what route we did, but is was nice.
If you do MRC, finish with the Stright Edge
Upper slot is great intro to Vedauwoo OW
Skull is super cool for sure.
Zac's new sport lines are also super nice. Check out his Guidebook for more info.
So much bouldering, so little time...
I will be there around June 28th till maybe July 6. Spent 4 weeks there last summer as well. Very cool place, great free camping, and taco Tuesday is not to be missed for sure.
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holmeslovesguinness
Jun 4, 2004, 5:41 PM
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Petsfed pretty well summed it up. Some easier climbs that are also fun would include:
Ted's Trot - 5.7, a good intro to wide cracks that doesn't need any big gear
Mother #1 - 5.7, intro off-width that only needs one big piece down low - fun rappel off the Parabolic Slab
Sugar Crack - 5.7, mostly hand jamming with an offwidth crux up high that protects with a big fist size piece
The first pitch of Deception - easy 5.8ish and easy to top rope. The second pitch is 5.9, but fun and pretty easy by Vedauwoo standards (albeit somewhat run-out to the anchors, or just walk off).
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munckee
Jun 4, 2004, 6:31 PM
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Thanks for the help guys. Man, I'm psyched about this summer. Sounds like every area I have planned could take up the whole summer.
Is the camping "car camping" or is there a hike in? I can't quite picture the area from the descriptions. Can you camp right in the climbing area?
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petsfed
Jun 4, 2004, 7:38 PM
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You can't camp right at most of the areas, but you can get pretty close. The main area (eg Walt's Wall, Coke Bottle, Fall Wall, MRC, etc) are in the day use area, so either hike in or pay the $5 to park. There are no roads directly to most of the areas. However, most all of the camping is right off the road. I've camped at the pull out for Nat's, Party Rocks, Citadel, and Reynolds Hill. I've also hiked in and camped at the base of Skull. However, as I've said elsewhere, stay off Skull until the falcons go away. They were seriously pissed and I didn't even climb up to their nest.
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camsticker
Jun 4, 2004, 7:47 PM
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http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/listArea.php?AreaID=196
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killclimbz
Jun 4, 2004, 8:16 PM
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Just don't forget to bring the tape...
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rgs9buffaloedu
Jan 27, 2005, 4:12 AM
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we are planning a trip in late March. Anyone know what the weather is like then?
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rgs9buffaloedu
Jan 27, 2005, 1:02 PM
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What's Eldorado like ?
(I top out at 5.9 and like solid protection)
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pt
Jan 27, 2005, 3:06 PM
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In reply to: What's Eldorado like ? (I top out at 5.9 and like solid protection)
Eldorado is famous for a reason, the climbing is great. You'll be able to spend many good days if you climb up to 5.9. You can find plenty of good routes with good protection. Here's a quick list of good easier routes with good protection oportunities;
Wind Ridge 7
Calypso 6
Bastille Crack 7
Cest La Morte 9
Cest La Vie P1 9+
Lower Ruper 8
Great Zot to Rewritten 8
Washington Irving 6
Chianti 8
Long John Wall 8
The Unsaid 9
P1 Pony Express 9
Mescaline 7
Over & Out 8
Emerald City 9
Gonzo 8
V3 8
Perversion 9
There are, of course, many more and you can also top rope some harder pitches from shared anchors on some of these routes.
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