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tashtego
Jun 10, 2004, 2:24 PM
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Registered: May 19, 2003
Posts: 12
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(Hope this is in an appropirate forum...)
OK, so here's the deal. I'm a purebred east coast climber -- I climb mostly at the Gunks, with frequent trips to the NRG, RRG, etc, and occasionally Europe. But I've never climbed west of the Mississippi. On Sunday, however, I'm making my pilgrimage to Yosemite. Has to happen eventually, right? My attempts to drag a partner along fell thorugh, so I'm going to wing it and find people to hook up with out there. I need some basic info first though:
1) I'm flying into Oakland. What's the best way to get from there to the park without a car? Are there any busses that go straight there or do you need to transfer somplace?
2) I'm guessing Camp 4 is the best place to camp, at least to initially meet other climbers, but are there any better, quieter places to pitch my tent that I ought to know about? (Also, how do I get to Camp 4 on foot?)
3) Is it convenient to buy groceries, stove feul etc, or should I stock up before I get there?
4) I'm planning on being in the valley for 10 or 11 days. Is that a problem? I've read that there's a 7 nite max on camping. Can you just move around a bit?
5) Lastly, can anyone suggest some good spots for my crack indoctrination? I'm a 5.10 trad leader, but the Gunks is mostly faces and roofs. When I see a crack I start laying back, you know? I have next to no crack technique. So I want to ratchet down my expectations and get a feel for easy cracks so I don't get totally spanked and frustrated right out of the box. Any suggestions?
Thanks
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jstp
Jun 10, 2004, 4:00 PM
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Registered: May 23, 2004
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Hope i can help you out with this info. i spent a summer there and camp 4 is definitely the place to go if you are looking for partners. my advice is to look for the biggest characthers with the most grit and grime, usually found swilling and slacking when not climbing. they are the most competent, tallented and easygoing it seems.... though the yuppies that come through with well groomed dreads and sparkling racks are often a good bet for easier trad (they are usually looking for sport and are clearly lost) and a margie or beer at the end of the day. onto your questions
1. From oakland i dunno about busses, but there are definitely some in and out of the valley, check the website. (sorry but i don't have time at the moment to find the link, try google)
2. see above. also for quieter spots (are we talking legal or super-bum style?) there are many to be found, but if you are on foot and want to be legally camped none really pop to mind. the busses stop running at 10pm as well (oh, ride the bus around once to figure out where it goes, that will be useful) so if you plan on hanging in camp 4 into the night for afterhours training or partner finding goind somewhere else to crash might be doubly problomatic. to get to c4 on foot (if you arive at yosemite lodge on a bus, which is where you will if your on a bus) get to yosemite lodge if you are not dropped there by your bus. the valley shuttle which stops all over eventually goes there, so if you hitch and end up in curry or somthing, hop on the shuttle 'til you get to the lodge. from yosemit lodge find the cafeteria (big glass building, great place to find partners in the morings over coffee). keep heanding down valley from the caffeteria and you will see a big dirt lot full of cars, thats the c4 lot. pretty obvious from there.
3. buy groceries and everything else everywhere, 'cause in the valley everything is more expesive than you can possibly imagine. its obscene.
4. legally yes, it is a problem. many people do it, though it is technically a faux pa. smile nice to the kiosk girls at the end of 7 days and take a new name. only seven nights a year are allowed in the park during busy season (31 in the off season) unlimited day use, oh about that, buy the golden pass if you ever visit other parks, great deal and they need the money.
5. this is the fun part. get someone to take you up, say, braile book (5.8) and stellar. central pillar of frezy is good too (5.9). its yosemite, there are no shortages of stellar cracks. pick a grade, the number of pitches and find a partner you are confident it and have at it. serentity crack to sons of yesterday is amazing, longer and harder. do that one for sure. also on a rest day or for fun find a guide up royal arches, its a classic thing to do. snake dike on half dome is fun, especially by moonlight if your up for an adventure. east buttress of el cap is incredible and quite long. there are a number of guibooks that are great and the locals are invaluable (though they jest and sandbag with merciless, if good humored, aplomb). for particularly interesting fun go do some offwidth, generator crack, chingando etc. and on a particularly inebriated evening find a crowd and a guide to the rebirthing behind camp 4. an experience not soon forgoten
8^)
get out there and rock it! wish i was already there, your a lucky one.
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rjavery10
Jun 23, 2004, 10:54 AM
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Registered: May 25, 2004
Posts: 105
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Don't forget the Grack (5.6) on Glacier Skirt Apron. Its a good intro to Yosemite crack climbing with an awesome sustained splitter on the second pitch. While on the Grack you can get a nut I "fixed" up there and send it back to me.
If you want to learn how to slackline properly look up a character named Chongo. He lives in a cave above Camp 4 and is a totally awesome guy to learn from for the slacklining. He rides a bike around Camp 4 with the seat all duct taped down.
Have fun with the crowds of fat tourists.
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cgranite
Jun 25, 2004, 4:56 AM
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Registered: Aug 5, 2003
Posts: 366
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I've hung out with people who lived there for three months. It is tricky especially if you have a car. I'm not at liberty to say how, but you can loose your wallet, if you know what I mean.
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onelung
Jun 25, 2004, 7:42 AM
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Registered: Dec 8, 2002
Posts: 436
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Check what I just did,
Two weeks ahead of my trip a friend put a sign on the C4 board asking if anyone wanted to drive a car back to Oakland.
Three french guys call me, I arrive Oakland drive to the Valley. They drop me off at the WFLT on their way out. Then I bummmed a ride back....amazingly enough I got a ride from the same guy who gave me one last year. Thanks Jesse...we decided to keep in touch.
THats one way to get to the Valley from Oakland.
Aloha,
bill
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