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zozo
Jun 11, 2004, 12:57 PM
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I have a friend who coming to visit me next month and she wants to try some multipitch stuff, the thing is is that she is deaf. We were wondering if anyone has ever dealt with this issue before as it relates to communication?
Thanks in advance.
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edge
Jun 11, 2004, 1:06 PM
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Sounds like you need to develop a system of hard, distinct rope tugs for such things as off belay and on belay at the very least. I have done that many times when communication is lost due to a loud river or howling winds.
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jstp
Jun 11, 2004, 1:09 PM
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I climbed a bunch with a deaf freind a while back. it was great, no chatter, only the beautiful silence. One thing that will influece what you do is your freinds climbing experience. if they have experience chances are they already know rope signals. climbing routes with not much rope drag so the signals get through and shorter pitches also help. rope signals can be individualized and usually consist of sequences of short and long pulls on the rope. also very useful in the wind, or on winding routes, or at very busy crags to reinforce voice commands. everyone in a climbing party should agree on rope signals and practice using them before any serious outing.
set up rope singals you both agree on, and practice them! pick routes that are well within your ability levels until you are comfortable together and that have shorter pitches if possible. the first couple routes you do it would also be advisable to retain line of sight and use both rope and hand signals until the system is fully engrained. have fun and enjoy the quiet. you many end up wanting your normal partners to start using rope signals. :)
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zozo
Jun 11, 2004, 1:13 PM
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In reply to: Sounds like you need to develop a system of hard, distinct rope tugs for such things as off belay and on belay at the very least. I have done that many times when communication is lost due to a loud river or howling winds.
That was my first thought as well, but I was thinking of climbing with her in Eldo where alot of the routes twist and turn and the rope drag can be an issue anyway. I was thinking of radio clicks or something.
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edge
Jun 11, 2004, 1:53 PM
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Eldo was where I first started using the tugs, since climbing on the Wind Tower the river seems particularly loud. There are definately routes there where rope drag is not an issue, just use long slings.
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zozo
Jun 11, 2004, 1:59 PM
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Hey Edge,
Do you remember the routes you were on? Im looking for some 5.5. - 5.7 stuff.
Thanks for the info!
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deafclimber
Jun 11, 2004, 2:01 PM
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you and ur deaf partner need to help each other to know the signs.
personally i use the climbing signs to communicate with the belayer :
fingers crossed shaking- means "ready to climb" or "climb on".
flat palm slit on neck - means finish or quit climbing.
two knuckle hands move up and down then flat palm slit on neck- means belay off.
flat palm bounces on head 3 times- means "i am safe" when u put youself on top anchor.
you can make up the signs to communicate to each other. feel free to PM me how to sign.
however if you dont see eachother at between the belay stations, you need to do is to tug the rope. it is not easy to do but you and belayer have to agree how to communicate before you start leading.
when i arrive at top and set up the belay station and put myself on "safe", then i tug the rope three times to let the belayer know that i am on "safe" and want belayer to "belay off". when the belayer is ready to climb on, belayer has to tug the rope three times to let me know that he or she is ready to climb on, but the belayer has to wait til i response the belayer back. when i m ready to belay, i tug the rope three times back to the belayer to let him or her know that i am ready to "belay on". so the belay knows i m ready and climbs on.
you have to make sure the rope is not stuck or too tight because if that happens, the belayer and i wont be able to feel the rope tugged.
hope this helps you.
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scrappydoo
Jun 11, 2004, 3:10 PM
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One of my best friends is deaf and she and I have climbed together some, though never multipitch.
I think the best way to communicate if your deaf partner isn't familiar with rope signals is to use SMS text messaging on your cell phone. The cell phone reception is really good in Eldo (in most places) and, I have found, that texting is the fastest, most accurate way to relate information. I assume that your friend is a texting wiz (my friend is incredibly fast) and wont have a problem. If you don't have much experience texting, most phones have an option to preprogram sentences so you don't have to type in "off belay" every time, just hit 1 or something (I have a Motorola V60i that has "quick notes" that does this). I hope this helps and don't let it become an issue that keeps you guys from trying things, it hasn't stopped my friend who I respect and trust more than anything.
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monkeyarm
Jun 11, 2004, 3:11 PM
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In reply to: That was my first thought as well, but I was thinking of climbing with her in Eldo where alot of the routes twist and turn and the rope drag can be an issue anyway. I was thinking of radio clicks or something.
While that would work for her to communicate with you, for you to communicate back you would needs something that vibrates or has a light that blinks, this would also be good i your out of sight.
Also if you cant sign I would suggest bringing along a small white board to communicate if something unexpected occurs and you need to express something beyond belay commands
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deafclimber
Jun 12, 2004, 1:18 AM
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as deaf climbers, we dont have fancy mobiles with sms. we cant hear the mobiles so we do not need them. most deaf people use tmobile sidekicks and interactive pagers to send emails or text message or aim. however those device's signals in mountains or heavy woods are zipped - zero - nada - nothing or too weak. that sucks.
i never try walkie talkie before but.... big question is what if u try to click several times and ur deaf partner may miss the flashing signals while ur deaf partner viewd out there. i dont want my eyes get crossed sorely while i stare at the flash singal on walkie talkie for 3 or 10 minutes, you know. i did see new vibrating walkie talkies in motorola's website, but i rather wait and see how they work.
i hope there will be better way for deaf climbers or anyone like vibrating two ways radio watches so we can feel them vibrating.
as for now, using signs to communicate or tugging the ropes are only better ways to do.
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slacklinejoe
Jun 15, 2004, 3:22 AM
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Not from experience but:
Rope drag being a problem can be avoided by a secondary thin line trailed by the climber. A strong string would suffice - trail one end out a fanny pack would work.
A higher tech solution:
Me and my brother made designed fighting robots at one time (Midwest Robot Competitions). At any rate, those remotes have a 2 - 3 mile range in flatland but it should easily handle a multipitch in the mountains.
To send a signal up, the climber would need a small motor on the reciever, one smaller battery pack - probably weights a few oz heavier than the usual beeper. When the belayer sends a signal w/ remote (series of pulses) the climber would feel the fairly strong vibe from the motor when pulsed. Granted, thats one way communication - so double the equipment for two way. No better or efficent than rope tugs, but for those geeks among us with half the equipment already it would be interesting to see. If done properly it wouldn't have to be that expensive and should be lightweight.
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