|
mrtristan
Jun 12, 2004, 1:22 PM
Post #1 of 21
(3187 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 21, 2002
Posts: 596
|
So what's your favorite/best you've seen and least favorite anchor atop sport routes?
Favorite: Locking steel biners. Makes you feel all warm and fuzzy inside.
Least favorite: Two bolts, no rings or anything
You?
-Tristan
|
|
|
|
|
overlord
Jun 12, 2004, 1:35 PM
Post #2 of 21
(3187 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
|
fav: like you: steel lockers (or just fixed steel biners)
i really hate piggy tails. i would rather find just two bol than that thing.
|
|
|
|
|
dorkmaster
Jun 12, 2004, 1:53 PM
Post #3 of 21
(3187 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 19, 2004
Posts: 268
|
Favorite Sport Anchor- 2 bolts with locking biners, or those steel lap link things.
Least Favorite- When you get to where the top of the route, and the hangers are missing. (yes, it has happened.)
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
Jun 12, 2004, 4:04 PM
Post #4 of 21
(3187 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
sport shuts.
Failing that, open shuts.
|
|
|
|
|
killclimbz
Jun 12, 2004, 4:06 PM
Post #5 of 21
(3187 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 6, 2000
Posts: 1964
|
Fixe ring anchors. Nice big, fat, strong rings that you can easily clip into and clean.
|
|
|
|
|
ikefromla
Jun 12, 2004, 6:29 PM
Post #6 of 21
(3187 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 23, 2002
Posts: 1216
|
1st: gated shuts
2nd: chains with NON-LOCKING biners (preferably bent-gates)
3rd: 2 open shuts with 1 center closed shut/biner/equivalent
4th: 2 open shuts
5th: those big beefy stainless steel gated crane hook things that you see at the Owens River Gorge and even a little at Mt. Charleston.
regular chains and rap rings follow, they're a pain. the four i listed as my favorites are easy to clip at the end of a hard climb, so they are ideal for sport routes.
|
|
|
|
|
areyoumydude
Jun 12, 2004, 7:49 PM
Post #7 of 21
(3187 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 28, 2003
Posts: 1971
|
Two fat bolts(1/2"x3 3/4") Kong SS hanger, 10mm quick links with 8 to 10mm rap rings. It is bomber and you can top rope through the rings.
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
Jun 12, 2004, 8:09 PM
Post #8 of 21
(3187 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
In reply to: Two fat bolts(1/2"x3 3/4") Kong SS hanger, 10mm quick links with 8 to 10mm rap rings. It is bomber and you can top rope through the rings.
You can top rope through the rings. But that doesn't mean you should. Take it easy on fixed gear.
|
|
|
|
|
petsfed
Jun 12, 2004, 8:16 PM
Post #9 of 21
(3187 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599
|
Locking steel biners that haven't been stolen by some wannabe dirtbag gumby. They're not leaver biners for pity's sake
Least favorite?
Quicklinks through metolius rap bolts. Stupid people...
|
|
|
|
|
peroxide
Jun 12, 2004, 8:37 PM
Post #10 of 21
(3187 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 3, 2004
Posts: 117
|
The freaking expensive and rare IQ clip in sport anchor (check gear review for bolts)
I have only found them twice in Europe but very cool. Big and beefy and meant to take some abuse. You clip the rope at the top if lowering out.
The lower out point has a nice smooth radius (rope friendly) and is built to last.
But at 30 dollars a pop, i don't imagine them becoming popular.
Rock on,
Peroxide
|
|
|
|
|
areyoumydude
Jun 12, 2004, 9:01 PM
Post #11 of 21
(3187 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 28, 2003
Posts: 1971
|
In reply to: In reply to: Two fat bolts(1/2"x3 3/4") Kong SS hanger, 10mm quick links with 8 to 10mm rap rings. It is bomber and you can top rope through the rings. You can top rope through the rings. But that doesn't mean you should. Take it easy on fixed gear.
These are the type of anchors I use on my FAs. The rap rings rotate in the quick links so the rope is not rubbing a groove in them. I have yet to wear one out. If I do I will simply replace the ring.
|
|
|
|
|
itakealot
Jun 12, 2004, 10:12 PM
Post #12 of 21
(3187 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 8, 2003
Posts: 382
|
TWO fat FIXE open shuts with the spring loaded gates, especially if anodized in either granite or sandstone finish, perfect when I am feeling like a pussy and can flip the rope over the top to skip the last move cruxes.
PS don't TR off the fixed anchors.
|
|
|
|
|
areyoumydude
Jun 12, 2004, 11:27 PM
Post #13 of 21
(3187 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 28, 2003
Posts: 1971
|
I would nomally agree that you shouldn't top rope on fixed anchors. That is why I use the beefy quick links and the beefy( not the rolled aluminium ones) rap rings. With this set up it is fine to use as a top rope anchor. I have been using these for a couple of years with repeated use and they show no sign of wear.
People are going to do it anyway. You might as well make it safe.
Peace, Larry
|
|
|
|
|
areyoumydude
Jun 13, 2004, 1:12 AM
Post #14 of 21
(3187 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 28, 2003
Posts: 1971
|
bzzt.
|
|
|
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Jun 13, 2004, 1:14 AM
Post #15 of 21
(3187 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 24, 2003
Posts: 2599
|
I have seen SS3/8" rings worn 1i2 way through. Don't tr through the anchors. Just use quickdraws. Just because some gumbys do it dosent mean that everyone has to be a tool.
|
|
|
|
|
areyoumydude
Jun 13, 2004, 1:26 AM
Post #16 of 21
(3187 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 28, 2003
Posts: 1971
|
I'm sorry I was wrong never t.r. through fixed gear very bad. I don't know what I am talking about. Wait a minute I do know what I am talking about. Like I said before the rap rings rotate so it doesn't wear in one place. If it did wear out it is simple to replace. Yea use quick draws, slings what ever you want, but don't tell me what I am doing is wrong with out giving a good reason.
peace.
|
|
|
|
|
socalbolter
Jun 13, 2004, 4:28 AM
Post #17 of 21
(3187 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 27, 2002
Posts: 796
|
this debate comes up from time to time.
here's the short version:
1) the rings often get pinched against the rock when loaded as they load differently based on angle of the rope (belayer's position) and the direction of the rock side rope (what's clipped in before the anchors as a directional).
2) the rings rotate freely in most case between loadings.
3) once loaded the ring will usually not rotate. this means that during a prolonged loading (or dogging session) the ring will wear in the same spot until the load is released).
4) once a single section of the ring begins to groove, it's much more likely that the rope will come to rest in that spot than another. This obviously will continue the wear on that portion of the ring.
in your case i would have to guess that either you've been very lucky so far, or that the routes in question have not seen the kind of traffic that those in highly popular areas see. i also have seen rings ruined in a single season on popular routes.
your argument of them being easy to replace has merit, but why create a situation that requires replacement and stewardship from area climbers when it's easy enough to avoid by using draws?
lastly, by standardizing the habit of telling all beginning climbers to use draws on fixed gear when toproping, we further the odds that they will do so on other types of anchors that wear much quicker. the less situational ethics involved, the more streamlined the safety and consideration habits will become.
|
|
|
|
|
areyoumydude
Jun 13, 2004, 4:26 PM
Post #18 of 21
(3187 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 28, 2003
Posts: 1971
|
Louie, I agree with everything you said. I kind of got off the subject. The anchors I desrcribed is what I like to use. when I am working a route I will use slings or quick draws. I do however lower off the rings when I am done. They are my anchors and easily replaceable therefore they are not "fixed". I do not think you should tr or work a route through "fixed" anchors because they will wear out. I have seen tons of rap hangers and other fixed gear that are all grooved out from people lowering off of them. Right or wrong those anchor suck. That is why I use the removable rap rings. Using the same quick draws for top roping will wear out before the rap rings do.
Peace out, Larry
|
|
|
|
|
overzealous
Jun 14, 2004, 5:29 PM
Post #19 of 21
(3187 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 24, 2004
Posts: 257
|
In reply to: The freaking expensive and rare IQ clip in sport anchor (check gear review for bolts) I have only found them twice in Europe but very cool. Big and beefy and meant to take some abuse. You clip the rope at the top if lowering out. The lower out point has a nice smooth radius (rope friendly) and is built to last. But at 30 dollars a pop, i don't imagine them becoming popular. Rock on, Peroxide
I pull plastic about once a week (more in the winter when I can't get on real rock) - my gym has these at the top of most of their bolted walls, I've never yet seen one outside but they rock. Hopefully they'll catch on.
|
|
|
|
|
therealdeal
Jun 25, 2004, 10:59 PM
Post #21 of 21
(3187 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 29, 2002
Posts: 250
|
Fixe SuperShuts are the way for sure...believe me they are plenty strong.
my least favorite sport anchor are Metolius Rap Hangers...great for what they are designed for, but stupid for single pitch sport routes.
|
|
|
|
|
|
