|
climbnsocal
Jun 14, 2004, 9:18 PM
Post #1 of 35
(3920 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 19, 2003
Posts: 6
|
i recently graduated high school on june 9th and my graduation present from my bro in law is to take me up el cap but i gotta choose the route iv only climbed 2 other aid routes lots of multi pitchs i redrock and zion and sport all over but i dont nw a whole lot about choosin routes lke this soif you have any sugestions emal me i would love to hear them any beta would help thankx
AUTO
|
|
|
|
|
grabngrip
Jun 14, 2004, 9:36 PM
Post #2 of 35
(3920 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 28, 2003
Posts: 252
|
have him choose a route since you dont know much about aid climbing
|
|
|
|
|
bigwalling
Jun 14, 2004, 10:02 PM
Post #3 of 35
(3920 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 29, 2001
Posts: 728
|
Nightmare on California Street
|
|
|
|
|
grayhghost
Jun 14, 2004, 10:25 PM
Post #4 of 35
(3920 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 21, 2002
Posts: 444
|
wyoming sheep ranch
mucho caliente, oy!
|
|
|
|
|
ricardol
Jun 14, 2004, 10:39 PM
Post #5 of 35
(3920 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 11, 2002
Posts: 1050
|
it depends .. do you want to lead .. or just jug-monkey the wall?
.. if you want to lead -- then pick a route that has lots of pitches at your aid lead level ..
.. if you're jut going to jug the route -- then pick a route that aesthetic .. and low traffic .. so you can enjoy your time on the wall ..
.. i'd pick something that starts steep .. so the hauling wont be a big PITA .. on the right side of the captn...
-- ricardo
|
|
|
|
|
epic_ed
Jun 14, 2004, 11:13 PM
Post #6 of 35
(3920 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 4724
|
Your post is unintelligible. Mix in some English and you might get some better responses.
|
|
|
|
|
holdplease2
Jun 14, 2004, 11:24 PM
Post #7 of 35
(3920 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 18, 2002
Posts: 1733
|
Gees, ed, what crawled up your arse? He got good responses, I thought.
Congrats on a cool graduation gift.
I haven't climbed enough of the routes to suggest one, but I might suggest getting familiar with how to clean and come up with good pro strategies for traverses and wandering lines, this will make your life easier. Until I got on the captain, all of my "practice routes" were logistically pretty simple, yours might have been as well.
-Kate.
|
|
|
|
|
iltripp
Jun 14, 2004, 11:46 PM
Post #8 of 35
(3920 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 6, 2003
Posts: 1607
|
In reply to: Gees, ed, what crawled up your arse? He got good responses, I thought.
Sorry Kate, but I'm with Ed on this. Other errors aside, he wrote that entire post without a single period. Is it that hard to hit that little button that magically turns gibberish into complete sentences?? I dunno, maybe his keyboard is broke...
|
|
|
|
|
holdplease2
Jun 15, 2004, 12:07 AM
Post #9 of 35
(3920 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 18, 2002
Posts: 1733
|
I think he as achieved the ideal if I could live my entire life without a period that would be great I wouldn't miss the mood swings, the bloating, you know
I was refering more to the fact that some of the answers seemed good than to whether or not I actually thought, with writing like his, that he would be capable of earning a graduation present... ;)
-Kate.
|
|
|
|
|
holdplease2
Jun 15, 2004, 12:14 AM
Post #10 of 35
(3920 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 18, 2002
Posts: 1733
|
Furthermore
If you just found out you were getting to climb the captian for the first time, you'd probably be talking, thinking, and writing without pauses, too!
As I recall, that was the case. Ed? You're gonna be the same way in about a week...see you soon.
:)
-Kate.
|
|
|
|
|
epic_ed
Jun 15, 2004, 12:55 AM
Post #11 of 35
(3920 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 4724
|
In reply to: blah, blah, blah... if I could live my entire life without a period that would be great I wouldn't miss the mood swings, the bloating, you know... -Kate.
:lol:
And, no, his post still doesn't make much sense. For example, what does this mean?
In reply to: ... i gotta choose the route iv only climbed 2 other aid routes lots of multi pitchs i redrock and zion and sport all over.
HUH?! 180+ views and only a few responses.
See ya next week! (Sunday, maybe?)
|
|
|
|
|
holdplease2
Jun 15, 2004, 1:47 AM
Post #12 of 35
(3920 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 18, 2002
Posts: 1733
|
Interpretation:
"I recently graduated high school on june 9 and my graduation present from my bro in law is to take me up el cap"
* Guy graduated from high school on june 9 - his brother in law has offered to take him up el cap as a present.
"but i gotta choose the route iv only climbed 2 other aid routes lots of multi pitchs i redrock and zion and sport all over"
* Guy has to select the el cap route to climb...he's only climbed two aid routes in the past, along with muiti-pitch climbs in red rocks and zion. He has climbed sport in several locations.
"but i dont nw a whole lot about choosin routes lke this soif you have any sugestions emal me i would love to hear them any beta would help"
* Guy does not know how to select a long aid route on el cap, but based on his experience listed, if we have any suggestions, please email him. He would love to hear those suggestions and any associated beta
"thanx"
* guy says thanks.
Hey guy, climb Zodiac, you're welcome.
See how easy that was?
The reason 180 people viewed but aren't responding is that all 180 viewers, minus responders are all simply boulderers who are curious about "a great route on el cap" but wouldn't know one if it bit them on their taut youthful arses (kidding here). But being boulderers, they knew precisely what he said. ;)
:)
Lovingly yours,
-Kate.
|
|
|
|
|
epic_ed
Jun 15, 2004, 2:36 AM
Post #13 of 35
(3920 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 4724
|
You put a lot more effort into making sense out of the question than he put into asking it. Which is entirely my point.
But as for the question, I haven't found an El Cap route I can recommend yet. I've heard Zodiac is a real scream, though. :mrgreen:
Actually, if this guy hasn't aided much and he has a rope gun for a partner, The Nose may be the better option. If dude can free climb Yosemite 5.10 it would give him an opportunity to lead several pitches if he's up for it. On Zodiac he'd pretty much just be a jug monkey since there's not much free climbing under 5.13 and he likely wouldn't be ready to take the sharp end on any of the aid pitches.
How's that for an answer? Ya happy?
:P
|
|
|
|
|
esoteric1
Jun 15, 2004, 2:38 AM
Post #14 of 35
(3920 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 8, 2002
Posts: 705
|
jesus, I never get a "lovingly yours"
sheesh
|
|
|
|
|
galf
Jun 15, 2004, 2:39 AM
Post #15 of 35
(3920 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 23, 2002
Posts: 230
|
:D WOW! That was just my EBONICS class!
Thanks kate.
|
|
|
|
|
holdplease2
Jun 15, 2004, 2:41 AM
Post #16 of 35
(3920 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 18, 2002
Posts: 1733
|
Yes, you have a good point about the Nose, Ed.
Hmm.
It could also be good from the aid standpoint, plenty of C1 for him to lead, wheras the crap on Zodiac can be a little sketch...
Perhaps the Nose then.
Depending on your free-climbing skill, and that of your partner, consider the Nose, then. Fabulous.
Not lurking fear (hauling sucks) maybe the trip (less crowded, but still)
-Kate.
|
|
|
|
|
epic_ed
Jun 15, 2004, 3:01 AM
Post #17 of 35
(3920 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 4724
|
In reply to: jesus, I never get a "lovingly yours" sheesh
And you've never had her rip yer balls off, either. She can do both at the same time, ya know. It's all part of knowing and loving the inimitable hardwoman, Holdplease2. I'll take the good with the bad from her any day. :wink:
|
|
|
|
|
holdplease2
Jun 15, 2004, 3:04 AM
Post #18 of 35
(3920 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 18, 2002
Posts: 1733
|
Awww, shucks, Ed. Glad they got at least one of them sewn back on, yer gonna need it, 'cause next week... yer gonna diiiieeee!
Yeee hawww!
:)
-Kate.
|
|
|
|
|
oldsalt
Jun 15, 2004, 4:00 AM
Post #19 of 35
(3920 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 19, 2004
Posts: 919
|
To holdplease2:
You have made my night with this thread, your parents' "freak accident", and your insightful analysis of the "butt grabbing spotter ethics" exchanges. Well done!
To borrow from a story title in an old HeavyMetal magazine, you are "So Beautiful, Yet So Deadly"
|
|
|
|
|
holdplease2
Jun 15, 2004, 4:11 AM
Post #20 of 35
(3920 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 18, 2002
Posts: 1733
|
Awww...thank you Mr. oldsalt, its been a lovely day for it. Even with dial up. :)
-Kate.
|
|
|
|
|
notyetabigwaller
Jun 15, 2004, 5:47 AM
Post #21 of 35
(3920 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 8, 2003
Posts: 27
|
Conformist elitist wan Abe English teachers
Get With IT
The guy is asking a question
this kind of criticism is the reason some great people dont bother contributing to this forum
Answer questions.
This site sucks ass....
|
|
|
|
|
holdplease2
Jun 15, 2004, 5:49 AM
Post #22 of 35
(3920 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 18, 2002
Posts: 1733
|
Dude, this site rocks. We answered his question...which was a little hard to interpret, you must admit.
Ed and I were just playing, more hastling each other than hastling the kid that posted. He got great answers, I think, and maybe he should punctuate just a bit.
No offense intended to the guy.
-Kate.
|
|
|
|
|
holdplease2
Jun 15, 2004, 5:56 AM
Post #23 of 35
(3920 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 18, 2002
Posts: 1733
|
And, asking someone to help select an elcap route AND provide beta on it, well, thats asking for alot of work, really. The time it would have taken him to type a easy-to-read question isn't 5% of the time it would take someone to answer it...
If you are asking for "cool hat" beta, be a slob about it. If you want someone to help you pick a route on the captain and succeed, well, maybe be considerate of their time when you are asking for it.
So there, I guess.
Maybe this site does suck. Maybe I suck for making it suck.
***If I gave him el cap beta with the precision with which he asked his question, he would probably die up there.***
Something to consider, really.
-Kate.
|
|
|
|
|
notyetabigwaller
Jun 15, 2004, 6:08 AM
Post #24 of 35
(3920 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 8, 2003
Posts: 27
|
Ok but this site is harsh and I think its not meeting its potential... having or making fun... at others expense.......thats just fine...and I just got a notice to chill or else id be banned.... must be 1984!
I log on every day and check out the site... most is good... I do refer people here often...I prob never will again bec of the threat and will just use the free aspect
be nice abswer Qs and lose the big brother act!
no loss to me
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
