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a.a.
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Jun 4, 2004, 4:28 AM
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I have some time in the Valley this summer and am really interested in getting more into bigwall climbing. The biggest problem though is that there really don't seem to many many routes that can be done without a portaledge, and those things are freakin expensive.
At the moment, I don't have nearly the money for one but was wondering if anyone had any ideas on some clever dirtbag options. I know there was big wall climbing long before portaledges. Would a hammock be really that bad? Another thought is to check around C4 for partners but I'm not sure how many people have an extra/double ledge and are looking for a partner.
Any ideas?
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addiroids
Jun 4, 2004, 4:44 AM
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get fast, don't take unnecessary crap, and do stuff in a push or fix and fire.
TRADitionally yours,
Cali Dirtbag
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karlbaba
Jun 4, 2004, 5:01 AM
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Hammock isn't THAT bad. Eat Benedryl or something to make you sleep.
A lot of times your partner might have a double ledge.
YOu could try to buy an old POS grammici ledge or equivalent. Should be less than $100
Good luck
Peace
Karl
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coclimber26
Jun 4, 2004, 11:28 PM
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Check it out... www.pikamtn.com check out the hammock.
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crotch
Jun 5, 2004, 12:17 AM
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routes you can do in the valley without a ledge:
S. Face of the Column (and variants)
W. Face Leaning Tower (and variants)
RNW Face Half Dome
Nose
Salathe
that should get you started
Fish sells a ledge for $199
or make your own
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jc5462
Jun 12, 2004, 5:57 AM
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Registered: May 25, 2004
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Old time tricks: Plywood with prussik cord adjustment rigging, Chase lounge chair, Army stretcher, Submarine bunk.
Pika Parasite Hammock, Pika belay pod and some slings for the feet.
Search EBAY for Bat Tent, Lurp Tent, Forrest Wall Womb, A5 T-Bone Hammock, Grammici Cliffdwelling, Mountain Tools Womb with a View.
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dimitri
Jun 17, 2004, 8:22 PM
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I've used an Amazonas Traveller Hammock by Byer a couple times with great success($20.00) and it's less than 11oz.s which is way nice on the hauling.
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brutusofwyde
Jun 17, 2004, 9:13 PM
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K-mart sells a Portaledge for about $25. You need to add about 30 feet of accessory cord, some seam-grip, and 6 old carabiners. I used one of these on Zodiac.
Marginal Equipment used to sell used hollow-core doors for use as ledges. They also tried selling the "bivy with a view" sliding glass doors for awhile, but I think some customers ended up needing stitches.
In spite of what Karlee says, hammocks DO suck. Benedryl or no.
Many (most) backcountry Sierra walls do not need hammock or ledge. Don't limit yourself to the Big Ditch and your options expand logarithmically.
hth,
Brutus
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