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why do climbers "slackline"
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peroxide


Jun 1, 2004, 2:29 PM
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Q: Why do climbers "slackline"?

A: Primarily, because what was practiced by a small subcommunity of climbers has evolved into a full fledged activity.

Other examples:
1) Drinking Olde English on big walls (why oh why)
2) The silly biner on the rear view mirror thing
3) Wearing leather pants in C4 like Mr. Huber (ok...not yet)

But it is simply fun and great when your tips are shredded or the crags are wet. A line goes up pretty much anywhere.

AS FAR AS BENEFITS....WELL....
The only clear benefit I have had in my climbing is the ability to achieve mental focus more quickly.

When you get on a slackline, from moment 1, you have to have your game face on. No breaks. This requires immediate focus. A beginning slackliner will see this right away. They cannot get up on the line because they are flooded with "ambient noise".

I found that in the months after learning to slackline I was able to more quickly calm down in the heat of a crux. My brain would go to a very similar place to what I feel when I am in the "zone" while slacklining.

Outside of this there are more efficient techniques for improving your climbing ability. But then again the intent of the post was just to ask why.... I will say that all the step ups onto the line when you are starting out gives you one serious a** workout...its like doing a 100 one legged squats...ouch.

Peace
Peroxide


vertical_reality


Jun 2, 2004, 5:18 PM
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Slacklining is as relevant to climbing as ballet is.

Get over it.


Partner coldclimb


Jun 2, 2004, 8:51 PM
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I'm pretty sure ballet would help your climbing a lot too. Seriously. Those dancers are in really good shape, and forming good technique is nothing new to them... :wink:


jt512


Jun 2, 2004, 9:35 PM
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I'm pretty sure ballet would help your climbing a lot too. Seriously. Those dancers are in really good shape, and forming good technique is nothing new to them... :wink:

I've discussed this with several ballerina-climbers, one of whom I dated. In some ways ballet helps climbing, in some ways it hurts, and I'm not sure whether on balance ballet is good or bad for climbing. Ballerinas have phenomenal flexibility, which is good. However, all their strength is in their legs and feet. My ex couldn't do a single pull-up. Furthermore, they develop foot strength in a way that does not help -- and in fact probably hinders -- their climbing. Two dancers have told me that they have trouble using their toes in climbing because their feet are stronger while edging back toward the ball of the foot, but edging that far back on the foot is not as effective in climbing as pulling with the toes.

-Jay


Partner coldclimb


Jun 2, 2004, 9:37 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
I'm pretty sure ballet would help your climbing a lot too. Seriously. Those dancers are in really good shape, and forming good technique is nothing new to them... :wink:

I've discussed this with several ballerina-climbers, one of whom I dated. In some ways ballet helps climbing, in some ways it hurts, and I'm not sure whether on balance ballet is good or bad for climbing. Ballerinas have phenomenal flexibility, which is good. However, all their strength is in their legs and feet. My ex couldn't do a single pull-up. Furthermore, they develop foot strength in a way that does not help -- and in fact probably hinders -- their climbing. Two dancers have told me that they have trouble using their toes in climbing because their feet are stronger while edging back toward the ball of the foot, but edging that far back on the foot is not as effective in climbing as pulling with the toes.

-Jay

Now that's pretty interesting. Thanks for the post Jay. I should go take my dancer friends climbing and see how they do. Heck, if nothing else, I get to climb with a bunch of girls. :wink:


stickclipper


Jun 6, 2004, 5:07 AM
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In my not-so-brief experience, I have never fallen off a climb because I lost my balance.

-Jay


Wow. JT512 must have never barn doored off an arete.

Or come off a weird high step move.

Or climbed a hard slab.


rck_iceclimber9


Jun 17, 2004, 7:45 PM
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Slacklining has helped me at least becoming a better climber. I mean i wasn't able to keep my balance on a 5.11 slab.... and you don't know slab until you have been to Squamish BC. Also Chris Sharma & Dean Potter... well they have done slacking lining quite a lot and look at how "good" they are.


jt512


Jun 17, 2004, 8:26 PM
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Slacklining has helped me at least becoming a better climber. I mean i wasn't able to keep my balance on a 5.11 slab.... and you don't know slab until you have been to Squamish BC. Also Chris Sharma & Dean Potter... well they have done slacking lining quite a lot and look at how "good" they are.

Sharma smokes a lot of pot. That's why he's a good climber.

-Jay


Partner rocdaug


Jun 17, 2004, 8:35 PM
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climbers climb.
slackliners slackline.
hackysackers hackysack.

an individual can participate in many activities. I personaly like to rockclimb. which is why I was drawn to rockclimbing.com

I'd never heard of slacklining before I started visiting this site. The first time I saw a slacklining picture on this sight it was confusing to me. I asked myself what a picture of a tightrope walker had to do with climbing.

just an observation.
rd


rmiller


Jun 17, 2004, 10:20 PM
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In reply to:
Slacklining has helped me at least becoming a better climber. I mean i wasn't able to keep my balance on a 5.11 slab.... and you don't know slab until you have been to Squamish BC. Also Chris Sharma & Dean Potter... well they have done slacking lining quite a lot and look at how "good" they are.

Are you trying to imply that slacklining has caused Sharma or Potter to be good climbers?

Is this really an arguement that this person is making?

Give me a break!


bler


Jun 17, 2004, 10:59 PM
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blah blah blah.. this could be debated forever..

but fact is.. ALOT of things can help your climbing by helping your balance, even riding a motorcycle... even driving a car.. helps with hand eye coordination...

so if your arguing the fact that slacklining is MORE helpfull then other things that will help you mentally and physically for climbing, then you are right, because it is more helpful with foot coordination then say speed walking..

and if you are arguing the fact that slacklining is LESS helpfull then other things that will help you mentally and physically for climbing, you are also right, because there ARE things that help you more specifically for climbing then slacklining..

your words you choose and the way you debate this topic leaves it open for the pickings, and no one can make a definate statement, it is all based on personal experience and what works for one, may not for the other..


corpse


Jun 17, 2004, 11:27 PM
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I have been slacklining as physical therapy - it seems to be helping with strengthening my core muscles, which is good since I have a messed up lower back, and those extra muscle will/should help support my back - thus less pain.


jt512


Jun 18, 2004, 1:41 AM
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Re: why do climbers "slackline" [In reply to]
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In reply to:
blah blah blah.. this could be debated forever..

but fact is.. ALOT of things can help your climbing by helping your balance, even riding a motorcycle... even driving a car.. helps with hand eye coordination...

Clueless.

-Jay


bler


Jun 19, 2004, 12:58 AM
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haha if you think I was saying riding a motorcycle is good training for climbing your insane..

clueless as to what ???

clueless to the fact that everything you have done in life is an experience, and learning from them makes you more skilled in achieving whatever goal you are striving for..

or wait, am I being a little too broad for you ? because that could be applied to anything from climbing to getting a job...

ever heard of cross training ? just because it's not directley involved with the sport does not mean that some of the same skills are used.. even if they are very remotley involved...


darth_gaydar


Jun 19, 2004, 1:01 AM
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slackjawing


jt512


Jun 19, 2004, 1:51 AM
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ever heard of cross training ? just because it's not directley involved with the sport does not mean that some of the same skills are used.. even if they are very remotley involved...

Apparently, you have heard of cross-training, but know nothing about its limitations.

Now I have to go drive to the laundromat. I could wait another week, but I don't want to miss out on the training.

-Jay


bler


Jun 19, 2004, 2:59 AM
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oh well, i'll let your ignorance block the understanding of someone elses view...

don't we all love thick skulls....

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