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dagawebb
Jun 19, 2004, 8:00 AM
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Registered: May 13, 2003
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Hi All this may seem like a stupid post but here I go. A little while back I was doing a climb in Australia. We got to the second pitch of the climb and half way up we had to use a cam hook. The second pitch is very beaten out and the pin scars are all beaten out and you can barely get a 1 or 2 RP into them. So I decided to pull out the cam hook. Then to my surprise I could not get the cam hook to stick. I am not sure what I was doing wrong but for me they would not stick. The scars are beaten in a way that when they have been cleaned the cleaner has beaten the pin all the way down and then all the way back up making it almost impossible to do anything with. (no constructive scarring) Anyone have any ideas why I could not get the cam hook to stick. Unfortuneatly i do not have a pic of the scar. Cheers
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epic_ed
Jun 19, 2004, 8:03 AM
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Registered: Jun 17, 2002
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I've seen some pin scars that are worthless except for using another pin -- usually a sawed-off angle. If you stick a cam hook vertically into a crack and weight it to try to cam it against both sides of the crack, then you're using it correctly. And if it isn't holding when you do this, it's time for another piece of pro. The best tool for clean aid climbing is the Hybrid Alien, but I've seen some pin scars where even those are a pipe-dream. Ed
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kpalsson
Jun 24, 2004, 12:27 AM
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Registered: Jan 16, 2004
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Daga: where is Oz was this?
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dagawebb
Jun 24, 2004, 6:31 AM
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Registered: May 13, 2003
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The climb was Ozy mate at buffalo
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