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ncclimber
Jun 20, 2004, 9:45 PM
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Registered: May 5, 2003
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I was in the valley from may 29-june 12. We climbed the Mescalito route. This was my second big wall. 1.5 years ago I did WFLT with my brother At that time he had climbed 2 clean pitches and me none that took two days.
We started on the 31st but after two days we were only to P4 my partner was getting very sick. Slept on the legde for the night and came down the next morning for some rest.
That was the morning of the 2nd many some of you heard of our poop tube incident. Luckily it was new and unused and I didn't hit the people sleeping below us. (Sorry again to dave and all the others.)
So after Two days of rest we blasted on the 4th six more days on the wall and we topped out on wed the 9th at 3:00. The morning of the 9th we started climbing at 6 am in a white out blizzard with flakes as big as dimes luckily it only lasted one hour and cleare. Just added to the experience.
The route was great. PTPP was exactly right the route has no really hard pitch but is sustained. With only one or two real gimmie pitches. We learned a lot about pinscar climbing and the heads were the biggest things I had ever seen. Being from North Carolina the aid climbing is much less traveled so the route are nowhere as beat out.
The route was a great first route for us. The climbing was easier than some things that we have climbed in NC. But with the time involved it made up for it, never having hauled that large of loads, slepted on a ledge, or been on awall for more that two days.
I am an aid climber and am looking forward to my next wall to become a better wall climber.
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glockaroo
Jun 21, 2004, 2:10 PM
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Registered: Nov 28, 2001
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Congratulations Shane! Having spent most of my rock time at Looking Glass as well, I had a similar impression of the Valley aid climbing when I was on the Nose and Prow. Looking Glass is a pretty darn good prep for aid in the Valley.
The real difference, though, is not the climbing skills but the planning & logistics for the big routes, something you know quite well now. The fact that you successfully grappled with a major big line speaks well of your tenacity.
Well done!
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ricardol
Jun 21, 2004, 3:40 PM
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Registered: Nov 11, 2002
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congratulatios shane! ..
this is ricardo -- i was the guy futzing around on P1 of new-dawn while you guys led P1 and P2 of mescalito ..
-- ricardo
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kilgymrats
Jun 22, 2004, 10:22 AM
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Registered: Jul 28, 2003
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Shane
Congrats man! That's pretty awesome. I was wondering why I haden't heard from you in a while. Figured you were on your trip. Sounds pretty awesome! Glad you guys made is safe. Later
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joe
Jun 22, 2004, 2:08 PM
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Registered: Jun 22, 2003
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my new congratulating technique is unstoppable.
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lambone
Jun 22, 2004, 6:27 PM
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Registered: May 1, 2003
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Way to go! Mescalito is a huge achievement for your first El Cap route! Still waiting to do that one...
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btayloriv
Jun 22, 2004, 7:03 PM
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Registered: May 7, 2003
Posts: 12
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Congrats Shane. Ben here from Hendersonville, I'm glad to hear things went well. Heard you guys were going out there for El Cap sometime this summer. I too will be in Yosemite in about two weeks but I'm still free climbing, so no El Cap for me this trip. :( You finish all the hard A4s up at the Glass yet?
-B
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hollyclimber
Jun 23, 2004, 2:14 AM
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Registered: Apr 27, 2002
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Sounds like you started the day that Soloist Dave had a party at the base? Think I saw you guys fix your first two when we were doing our base cleanup? And I think a soloist was starting behind you...just checking to see if this is the party I am thinking of...
Holly
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ncclimber
Jun 24, 2004, 11:31 PM
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Registered: May 5, 2003
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That was us holly.
It was the next day or the day after the big party we all started. Sorry to have missed it we where trying to rest.
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addiroids
Jun 30, 2004, 4:46 AM
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Registered: Oct 11, 2001
Posts: 1046
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Awesome job dude, and mucho big sack for choosing such a long route for your first El Cap route. I am still debating on the Trip in a push (goal is 30-40 hours) or Mescalito in okay style for my next wall in October. May end up doing both actually.
That is really cool that you did such a great line for your first El Cap wall. Now you can sit on your butt for a week and heal before training and planning for your next adventure.
TRADitionally yours,
Cali Dirtbag
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coylec
Jul 3, 2004, 7:22 AM
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Registered: Jul 12, 2003
Posts: 2024
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congrats!
coylec
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