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prairie_climber
Apr 30, 2002, 7:00 PM
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just woundering what every one likes using,
- i like using 8's.
one more question
- Just woundering which is better a ATC or a figure 8
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hangerlessbolt
Apr 30, 2002, 7:12 PM
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8's tend to kink the (expletive) out of my rope...I prefer my ATC.
-Hanger
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radistrad
Apr 30, 2002, 7:27 PM
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ATC
Very reliable, provides excellent friction and allows for semi speedy rappels.
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killclimbz
Apr 30, 2002, 7:34 PM
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I use a tuber, and I prefer that style of device. ATC, Sheriff, etc...
8's force a twist in your rope and kink it up. More of a pain in the azz than anything.
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stewbabby
Apr 30, 2002, 7:36 PM
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any plate device such as atc. i hate 8's they kink the rope too much!
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iclimbtoo
Apr 30, 2002, 7:36 PM
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I prefer 8's because I like to go fast. ATC's are slow...however, most of my rappels are on a single line too which helps cut back on the kinking in the rope and also keeps me from using my ATC.
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climber1
Apr 30, 2002, 7:47 PM
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I like eights. easier to set up. also they dissipate heat better than an ATC.
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timmyclimber
Apr 30, 2002, 8:19 PM
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I like ATC's. Supposadley, trangos version (i forgot the name) has ridges that are supposed to dissipate heat better then black diamonds. Who knows
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dustinap
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Apr 30, 2002, 8:22 PM
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Trango Pyramid, and yes you can go fast with this thing, although I really don't see the point in why you need to go super fast well rappeling. I have a HB sheriff, which is nice because of the rigid keeper, but I'm not real big on the device itself. The Reverso looks like it'd be a nice device for rappelling, but it's so thin it might get really, really hot. I know you can lower people ultra fast with the Metolius one, and it has a nearly rigid keeper, but it's so slow to feed out slack with. It may be a good rap device though.
[ This Message was edited by: dustinap on 2002-04-30 13:23 ]
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mitchal
Apr 30, 2002, 8:48 PM
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ATC all the way.I use an 8 sometimes just so I don't forget how,in case I would lose my ATC and have nothing else.
Anybody know that ATC stands for "air traffic controller?"
Climb Happy
Mitch
[ This Message was edited by: mitchal on 2002-04-30 13:50 ]
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jumaringjeff
Apr 30, 2002, 9:42 PM
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Ok here's a related question:
How many of you rappel without gloves??
-jj
P.S. I use either my reverso or my ATC when I rappel...
[ This Message was edited by: jumaringjeff on 2002-04-30 14:43 ]
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dustinap
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Apr 30, 2002, 10:10 PM
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I rappel without gloves, if I had gloves I'd wear them though. Alot of stuff is higher on the list of needed goods then gloves. How do leather gardening gloves work, or do they disingrate to fast?
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melonhead
Apr 30, 2002, 10:10 PM
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Neither.
A parachute!!!!!!!!!!
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kaptk
May 1, 2002, 7:43 AM
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Back before I started climbing I had been rappeling several times. For just rappeling I would use a figure 8 because you can go faster. For rappeling after a climb I would use an ATC or similar device. I don't want to have to carry an extra piece of gear just to rappel. I won't be worried about trying to go fast. Also, it twists the rope badly.
PS- If I am rappeling fast with an 8, I will wear gloves. I won't wear gloves for a controlled descent on an ATC, until I start going on really high multi-pitch routes.
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crux_clipper
May 1, 2002, 9:00 AM
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Why take a belay device AND a fig. 8. It's just more weight. I've found my HB ample for controlled abseils, although it does tend to get a little hot. I've never worn gloves, and i don't think i will. I'm not making rapid descents, so i find that gloves are not neccessary.
However, i work in a hardware shop, and can get riggers gloves (leather) for real cheap.
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roadtrip
May 1, 2002, 6:18 PM
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The following UIAA journal has some examples of why 8's went out of style. http://www.uiaa.ch/journal/20003.pdf
Several people were killed using 8's w/o a belay loop, b/c the biner gate can get torqued. Almost anything, however; works in the hands of a competent climber(ie. body rappel-no attachment). In fact, the military apparently uses two twists of the rope over a steel locker(not even a munter hitch.)
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natec
May 1, 2002, 6:41 PM
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Petzl reverso!
Smooth as silk on the rappel.
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litedawg
May 1, 2002, 6:45 PM
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ATCATClets hear it for the ATC.
I love my ATC. I learned on 8's but was shone the light when a more experienced climber demonstrated the superior properties of the ATC.
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bradhill
May 1, 2002, 7:17 PM
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I like my Reverso, but think it sucks for rappelling. Too much friction. I much prefer the ATC even though I'm a real turtle on rappels. (don't like to burn my rope) I agree about 8's being potentially dangerous, plus they're heavy.
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toobigtoclimb
May 1, 2002, 7:21 PM
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ATC
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nailzz
May 2, 2002, 2:46 AM
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Drat! Melonhead took my idea already ... sort of. I was gonna say
'gravity'
but 'a parachute' is better.
I use my ATC 100% of the time. It's simple, light, and works as well or better than anything I know of. The only other device I own is an '8' that I got free somewhere.
Gloves? No. The only time I rappel is after cleaning a climb so I don't do it for fun as much as a way to get back to earth. I would've loved gloves the time I speed rappelled off the rock when that thunderstorm moved in on us suddenly, though. Something about being high up on a cliff during lightning with metal pasted all over your body doesn't toot my horn.
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drysdan
May 2, 2002, 2:58 AM
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I dig my Metolius BRD (Belay/Rappel Device). It's so smooth, and really fast, if ya want it to be. The rappel, that is. And I've never had it get hot, even on long, fast rappels. And yeah, i like gloves. I have these rad gloves with leather on the front, and some neoprene stuff on the back. they fit pretty snug, so I can still articulate my fingers.
-T
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liudolf
May 2, 2002, 2:58 AM
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Last September I lost ALL my gear (in one bag) off the back of my motorcycle on my way home from climbing. Needless to say, it was gone by the time I turned around to get it, but when I replaced it all I was short on cash, obviously.
I replaced the ATC, decided to skip the 8 for later. I still don't have an 8! (chucked the cash for a Gri gri instead)
IMHO, anyway.
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kelownaclimber
May 2, 2002, 2:19 PM
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Atc all the way,8's are not gonna get used on my lead rope
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laplaya
May 2, 2002, 3:50 PM
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ok...2 pages of replys and no one has mentioned the best devise for rappeling yet.
Have any of you heard of a rappelin rack? they are sort of big, have alot of bars to dissapate heat, and they are used alot by vertical cavers. U can go fast or slow, at your desretion, as it is quite ajustible. ATCs are alright, but I wouldnt intentionally use them for say over 30 ft. of decent. Too little disapation surface, so they heat up quick! If I dont happen to have a rack on me, I always go for the 8! Anyone looking for gloves, a military surplus supply is the best place to get them! all leather rappeling gloves with double leather in the palm...good stuff. I get chicken and have to go real slow if I get caught without a glove, and I only wear one. My bro is right handed and I am left, so we split a pair
I also like to use the glove to belay.
Peace,
LaPlaya
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