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vegastradguy
Jun 23, 2004, 5:14 PM
Post #26 of 37
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Registered: Aug 28, 2002
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on trad lead, if i can avoid it, i will. i dont think i've actually come across a dyno on lead yet. would i? probably. i would be far more comfortable knowing the pro below was REALLY good, though.
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tedc
Jun 23, 2004, 5:15 PM
Post #27 of 37
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Registered: Nov 5, 2003
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Yes. Unless... I don't know what the finishing hold is like AND the fall is pretty R/X. :shock:
On routes that I climb a lot (approach routs e.t.c.) I will often convert to a MUCH more dynamic style of climbing which really saves a lot of energy.
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davidji
Jun 23, 2004, 5:17 PM
Post #28 of 37
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Registered: Jan 30, 2003
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I don't remember much dynoing on lead. I know I did it on Direct NW Face of Lembert Dome. The only place I dyno a lot is in the gym though.
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hosh
Jun 23, 2004, 5:43 PM
Post #29 of 37
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Registered: Dec 15, 2003
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I've thought about it a lot but I haven't ever actually thrown a dno on lead. There's just no real good places to huck one here in town...
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climbingpride
Jun 23, 2004, 6:41 PM
Post #30 of 37
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Registered: Oct 6, 2001
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I guess that it can really come down to you're definition of dynoing. I've done some big throws on routes, one hand straight down and the other one at the top of my reach. When i competed in a local dyno comp, both hands have to leave the rock, so i guess that the route that has the biggest move i've done on lead was not a dyno, because the other hand was still teatering on the top of the bottom hold. I'm just shy of 6'6" and have a wingspan even longer then that. In the gym, and at comps, when i launch for a true dyno my feet end up as high, sometimes if i'm lucky, higher then the starting hold. That's about an 8 and a half foot gap between the two holds. This i've never seen or done on lead. But can't wait to find.:P
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flipnfall
Jun 23, 2004, 6:54 PM
Post #31 of 37
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Registered: May 18, 2004
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Yep. Done it both trad and sport.
GT
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marks
Jun 23, 2004, 8:16 PM
Post #32 of 37
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Registered: Aug 3, 2002
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http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=9498
not really a full on dyno but i wouldnt have been able to reverse it
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marks
Jun 23, 2004, 8:19 PM
Post #33 of 37
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http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=12706
this was a true dyno,i was completely off the rock.i top roped it first but it was very scary.v4/5 moves to get into position then a v8 dyno to a sloping ledge.took a big fall 1st go.
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rrrADAM
Jun 23, 2004, 9:29 PM
Post #34 of 37
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Registered: Dec 19, 1999
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Although I prefer to climb statically, I have dyno'd (all 4 points) while leading a few times... Deadpointed much more than dyno'd though.
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off_route
Jun 23, 2004, 9:57 PM
Post #35 of 37
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Registered: May 28, 2004
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{bull$hit} Sure I dyno, at least once a route. Usually though it just doesn't impress the supermodels I always climb with. You see it's just so done.
I impress the girls with my one fingered dyno followed by the one handed flagpole. 8^) Yes I am cool. So much so that I climb with earplugs to save my hearing from the applause of the crowd.
{/bull$it}
What happened? Where am I? Oh it was just a dream. Uh-oh I left a wet spot on the bed again. :oops:
Off_Route
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dredsovrn
Jun 23, 2004, 10:20 PM
Post #36 of 37
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Registered: May 24, 2003
Posts: 1226
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In reply to: Although I prefer to climb statically, I have dyno'd (all 4 points) while leading a few times... Deadpointed much more than dyno'd though.
I have heard the term "deadpoint" before, but don't know what it means. What does it mean?
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asandh
Jun 25, 2004, 3:58 PM
Post #37 of 37
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Registered: Nov 13, 2002
Posts: 788
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5th or 6th pitch of the DNB (in Yosemite) a few years back. Only a short 10a trad dyno because I was too short to pull the move static, but I'm 30 ft. from the belay and the only pro between me and the belay was a rusty downward pointing piton 10 ft below me. And the belay was a trad belay that inspired less than full confidence.
Sport dynos don't count ........
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