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texscala


Jun 25, 2004, 9:34 AM
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Squaw Peak  (North_America: United_States: Utah: Salt_Lake_-_Utah_Counties: Rock_Canyon)
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I really like all the climbing that is available in Rock Canyon but I think there are alot of longer routes that could be set up. I was wondering if anyone has thought of going to the true summit of Squaw Peak and setting up routes that finish there. I think you could rap down and set anchors where necessary. It would end up being a climb that you had to rap down before you ever started climbing but I think it could work. Does anyone know what kind of rock is up there or how if it could be protected? I am also going to go look for routes that could be set up on the limestone wall that runs north to south that is off to the right as you approach "The Hidden". The tower up high looks awsome (but it would be quite a walk to get there). I would also like to know about the multipitch stuff that is available locally (Provo is local for me). I have heard that there is a 3 pitch route that is 5.9 in RC but I don't know where it is.

I think it is called Trilogy Buttress. Let me know what you think


delarig


Jun 25, 2004, 10:30 AM
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Re: Squaw Peak [In reply to]
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The Squaw Peak route is already in the works (3-4 anchors placed). I've done Trilogy Buttress a couple times, it's a really fun climb.


texscala


Jun 25, 2004, 12:27 PM
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Re: Squaw Peak [In reply to]
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Where is the Trilogy Butress route, what is it rated. Also how do I get to the squaw peak route and what is it rated (Do you have to repel the route to climb it?) are these trad routes or sport routes.


delarig


Jun 25, 2004, 12:48 PM
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Re: Squaw Peak [In reply to]
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To get to trilogy buttress you hike about 3-4 minutes up Rock Canyon to the huge rockslide on the left hand side. If you look directly above you (way up there) as you are going up the slide you can see the main wall of the Trilogy Buttress. Go up the rockslide a bit and vere left at the V shaped rock outcropping that the cliff creates as you go up. Once you vere left at the V shaped rock outcropping hike up until you see the route going up to the right. After you get to the top of the first pitch you will want to walk over to the obvious wall in front of you and hop on the route that is far right. After you have climbed the 2nd pitch you will then be at the base of the main wall. There is an obvious sling at the base of the wall. That is your route. The main wall itself is 2 pitches. There is a belay station (2 bolts) on a ledge about 2/3 of the way up the wall. Belay the last pitch from there. The pitch ratings are around (5.6, 5.8, 5.9, 5.9). Once you get to the top you can easily walk around and down. hope this helps. The squaw peak route is still in the early stages of development. I'll post some info on this site when it's done. Feel free to pm me with any further questions about the Trilogy buttress.


delarig


Jun 25, 2004, 12:52 PM
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Re: Squaw Peak [In reply to]
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Trilogy is a sport route


sarcat


Jun 25, 2004, 1:23 PM
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Re: Squaw Peak [In reply to]
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There is a multi pitch at Hard Rock in AF. The first is 5.7 ish the 2nd is 5.11?)


nunyoboy


Jul 2, 2004, 9:38 PM
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Re: Squaw Peak [In reply to]
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Well if you are interested in climbing on squaw peak then listen up. There are only a couple of anchors set up in various locations and no routes put in yet. This is a monster of a project and is going to take quite some time to work out. The rock is generally sharp and loose. Various bands of crubly old shale run throughout the incredibly soft and pourous limestone. I don't recomend climbing up here unless you have a drill and you really know how to use it. Bolts will be the only way to protect this wall. As for the tower you refered to, there is a really scary aid line up it already. It was put up by Tom Bailey a few years back and is mostly comprised of hook moves on very questionable rock.

There are a lot of people wanting to know about Trilogy Buttress. I know a bit about it. As to regards to being a mere sport climb beware. Be prepared for a runout first pitch, difficult retreat and lots of loose rock. If this does not appeal to you or leading 5.9 is at your limit then dont just expect another 5.9 sport climb. If you are really interested in this route you can get some good beta at Mountainworks, those guys are the ones who put it up. :D


mrtristan


Jul 4, 2004, 5:45 PM
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Re: Squaw Peak [In reply to]
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Anyone know how high the tallest face on Squaw Peak is?

I'll be going to BYU in the fall... Woo! See you guys in the Canyon!

-Tristan


texscala


Jul 6, 2004, 7:32 AM
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Re: Squaw Peak [In reply to]
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I was going to climb Trilogy this weeken but decided not to because of the post by nunyoboy. I have looked and the firs pitch and it looks fine to me. Alittle run out but there are places to pt in pro. As for it being loose I have no idea and would like to know more. I can lead around .10d .11a and can usually red point .10b however I would like to know how much 5.9 is on the route one move or is it 2 full pitches of 5.9. I would also like to know how well the last two pitches are protected. I will take a run down to mountain works but thought I would check with yall first.


nunyoboy


Jul 6, 2004, 10:09 AM
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The upper pitches of trilogy are well protected. But the rock IS loose. The climbing isnt sustained 5.9 on every move, there are a few places you can rest, but the last pitch is really long and tiring. :D


esallen


Jul 10, 2004, 7:13 PM
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Re: Squaw Peak [In reply to]
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Me and a couple buddies did the Trilogy last week and I really enjoyed it. The first pitch is about 100ft and only has 3 or 4 bolts. It felt like an easy 5.8 and I felt safe even with the runout. A couple good nuts and a cam placement or two made us feel even more secure. If you want to avoid rope drag on the first pitch, there is a good ledge about 60ft up to cut the pitch in half with a belay if needed.
PS: You may not want to try and climb the last face as one single pitch, our 60m rope wasn't quite long enough. Oh, and bring extra slings! :wink:
We watched the fireworks from the top on the 4th. It rocked!


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