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A shout out and a question.
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lichenmuncher


Jun 27, 2004, 8:32 PM
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A shout out and a question.
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:twisted: :roll:


skecthballer


Jun 27, 2004, 8:59 PM
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Re: A shout out and a question. [In reply to]
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if theres no way to place gear for 50 feet then why dont u just bolt it?


lichenmuncher


Jun 27, 2004, 9:09 PM
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:twisted:


frootloops


Jun 27, 2004, 9:10 PM
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Re: A shout out and a question. [In reply to]
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You should bolt the start. :shock: You could have a death on your hands, and as a route setter I wouldn't want that. :roll:


lichenmuncher


Jun 27, 2004, 9:19 PM
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:shock:


vegastradguy


Jun 27, 2004, 10:48 PM
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Re: A shout out and a question. [In reply to]
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if you did the FA with no bolts and you want to keep the route that way, throw and X onto it and leave it at that. if it has an X, it will tell anyone attempting the route about the danger it poses.

congrats on your bold ascent.


dirtineye


Jun 27, 2004, 10:54 PM
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Re: A shout out and a question. [In reply to]
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People die in 30 foot falls sometimes.

Why not just say, "No pro for ___ feet, and a 50 footer on the wrong side of the arette.", in your guide or topo?

Other areas exist where 5.7 and under get no bolts. Climbers are supposed to be good enough to climb 5.7 without falling, or stay off those routes.


telemarkist


Jun 27, 2004, 11:49 PM
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Re: A shout out and a question. [In reply to]
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I agree, nobody will be forced to do the climb, a bolt would make it more accessible to the general puplic but climbs with an x rating have always been a part of climbing, I see no reason to stop that tradition now. has it been seconded yet?


lichenmuncher


Jun 28, 2004, 12:30 AM
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:twisted:


lichenmuncher


Jun 28, 2004, 12:31 AM
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Thanx for your input guys, the climb has been seconded and may never be led again as it is in an obscure place, people rappel and young kids boulder, but no climbers with ropes as there is lichen an inch deep on the cliff for a mile. Will have the place to our selves for a year or two.


lichenmuncher


Jun 28, 2004, 12:33 AM
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Thanx for your input guys, the climb has been seconded and may never be led again as it is in an obscure place, people rappel and young kids boulder, but no climbers with ropes as there is lichen an inch deep on the cliff for a mile. Will have the place to our selves for a year or two. Still dont have this computor thing down.


billcoe_


Jun 28, 2004, 7:39 AM
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Re: A shout out and a question. [In reply to]
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Congrats on your ethics: If you are doing a topo, and want to attach an x to the route. Yes I think you should.

However, you'll have plenty of company if you do publish it.

I once went back and put a bolt in a 5.7 route due to popular demand. Now I wish I hadn't. It take a lot less mental control now, just clip the bolt and go. Before you had to work out some personal demons before commiting.


Partner j_ung


Jun 28, 2004, 8:24 AM
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Re: A shout out and a question. [In reply to]
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In reply to:
You should bolt the start. :shock: You could have a death on your hands, and as a route setter I wouldn't want that. :roll:

Whoa whoa whoa! Since when is a death in this situation anyone's responsibility but the climber's? As long as you forewarn people, a la the topo, and don't sandbag anybody onto it, your responsibility as an FA-ist is fulfilled, as far as I'm concerned.

As to the question of whether or not to place the bolt, decide what you want the future of the route to be. If it's quality climbing and you want people to repeat it often, then I say place the bolt (in adherence with local ethics). If the route is borderline fun anyway, than screw it... leave well enough alone.

(BTW, yes, a 50' talus fall ought to have an X.)


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