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sprtclimber
Jun 30, 2004, 8:14 PM
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Registered: Jun 11, 2003
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I know this is a dumb question, but I have little gear.
I want to go to Yosemite and do Serenity Crack, but I want to know what gear I need more of?
I have:
1 set of stoppers
TCU's 1-4
Camolots #.5-#1
I have some money to spend and I want to do Serenity.
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jonnyb
Jun 30, 2004, 8:19 PM
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Registered: Jun 3, 2003
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you need a rack :D
Seriously, Serenity is really heavy on the finger stuff.
I'd definitly want doubles on all the size cams you have(maybe get a set of aliens, green through orange). I think I placed a #2 as well. Doubles on medium stoppers would be nice if you like placing stoppers.
The pro for the first 30 feet is kinda tricky. You may want some offset nuts or offset aliens to make your life easier. Many people just run out to the bolt though... Check out the beta page on Supertopo for more info...
hope this helps. Good luck, Serenity is one of my favorites.
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cgranite
Jul 1, 2004, 3:19 AM
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Serenity is on my list too, but I don't even have enough pro to lead a crack. :lol:
Oh well...in time.
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evanmfreeman
Jul 1, 2004, 3:29 AM
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the rack listing for serenity in the supertopo guide is heavy, as always. you can definitely do the route with a single set of cams up to #2.5 friend/#2 camalot and a set of nuts med-large. double cams in the finger sizes would be nice.
i've never seen anyone place pro on the first pitch before the bolt--it's 5.8 and way more trouble than it's worth to place gear. in general, if you're a solid 5.10 leader the route is no problem (the .10d section is really short and not at all technical--if you can lock off on really good finger locks long enough to sink another one, you're golden).
don't forget to do "Sons of Yesterday", 4 more great pitches above "Serenity Crack".
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sprtclimber
Jul 1, 2004, 5:10 AM
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Registered: Jun 11, 2003
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What two or three pieces does the crack take the most of?
2, 3, and 4TCU's? How many green and red Camolots?
thanks
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dingus
Jul 1, 2004, 5:57 AM
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You will want at least one cam that goes to 3 inches for the first 30 feet of the 3rd pitch. Other than that, pro to two inches will do. I usually go with about 6-8 nuts, with a couple of small #5 or so brassies for some thin stuff before the traverse on p2. P1 is totally nutable, totally camable too for that matter. About 10 feet above the bolt is a bomber gold camelot placement. Other than that, pro to 2 inches.
Small TCU's or Aliens are not mandatory as the thing is nutable (nutz re bomber dude - EB Shue), but #1,2,3 can certainly be deployed to your advantage on the 2nd pitch. For Yosemite I like to carry 3 or 4 small TCU's and 3 or 4 small Aliens, but that is a *bit* overkill for this route, but perhaps only because I've climbed it like 15 times.
Piece count? The pitches are like 150'. How many pieces do you need to lead a pitch that long? Don't need an anchor rack, all belays are bolted.
You will regret life if you take that rack onto Sons of Y though. I usually take pro to 3.5 and if I'm feeling weak I'll take the #4 camelot for the last pitch (even though it really isn't necessary). It is good to double up on the gold camelot size for p4 of Sons, the steep and killer hand crack. I double up for 2.5 inch cam range too, singles for the rest.
DMT
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mchaff2
Jul 1, 2004, 9:17 AM
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Registered: Feb 19, 2003
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if you do serenity, you have to do Sons of Yesterday. You will need doubles though, especially #1 Camalot. the first real pitch of sons is the best pitch,in my opinion, out of both the routes. have fun and good luck.
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kellymoe
Jul 1, 2004, 9:53 PM
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Registered: Mar 27, 2004
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I did Serenity Crack about 20 years ago and I remember using a bunch of small size nuts down low and larger nuts and friends up higher. You can do the whole thing on nuts.
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padge
Jul 1, 2004, 10:05 PM
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Registered: Feb 18, 2004
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Serenity Cracks to Sons of Yesterday is a great climb. Lots of fingerlocks in pin scars so you need a few TCU's. The first bolt is kinda shitty unless someone replaced it (I havn't climbed it in a few years). It isn't very sustained so you can run it out a bit. The 10d section is probably the easiest 10d i've ever done in Yos. but it has cool moves on positive locks and good smears for your feet. Total valley classic.
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climboard
Jul 1, 2004, 10:18 PM
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Registered: Apr 10, 2001
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Get the HB Aluminum offsets for the first 30 feet if you aren't comfortable with soloing the first 30'. The only piece I managed to get in without them was a funky .75 Camalot that didn't make me happy.
I thought the 2nd pitch traverse was more intimidating then the 3rd pitch crux.
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sprtclimber
Jul 2, 2004, 7:08 AM
Post #11 of 13
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Registered: Jun 11, 2003
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So I still need:
-Brassies
-2 #2's
-#.75
-#1
-Extra TCU's...
I had no idea that the pitches were all so long. Would this extra gear REASONABLY do it for me. I like to protect sustaining climbs pretty well. I know that pretty well is relative, but let's put it this way more than average.
Is this rout sustaining?
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hamidagh
Jul 2, 2004, 2:38 PM
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Registered: Jun 8, 2003
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Look dude, at some point you just have to give it a shot, eh? No matter what people on this forum tell you, it'll never be like the real thing. If you try to do it and you don't have enough gear, you'll just run it out, get scared, etc and maybe you'll retreat. No big deal! Then next time you'll just take a bigger rack.
Where's the adventure?
-Hamid
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climboard
Jul 2, 2004, 3:44 PM
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Registered: Apr 10, 2001
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Good point Hamid.
Everyone has given you more then enough information for getting on this route.
I'd expect a .10d leader to ask "what's the largest piece I need and does it require any specialized gear (offset aliens, Big Bros, etc.)?" at most.
I see you haven't been placing gear long, are you sure you're ready for it? There are plenty of more moderate routes that are classics there. I'd be happy to recommend a few based on my trips out there and I'm sure some of the CA folks have a lot more recommendations.
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