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spacemonkey
May 2, 2002, 2:42 AM
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Hey all-
I read pretty far back in the posts here and didn't really see one that applied to this, but I could be wrong (It happened once before, just dont tell anyone. )
What are some specific methods I can use for endurance training specifically related to climbing? I've been reading about how some of you people out there can climb for an entire day, when I'm usually shot after about four hours at the most. I know that I can climb one pretty easy route like ten times in a row as fast as possible, however I don't often have a belayer, and was wondering if there's a way I can train similar to that on my own. (i.e. weights, running, swimming, anything. Thanks for your help!
Peace!
Brian
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crap
May 2, 2002, 2:59 AM
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Skills, climb smarter not harder. It pays to be in shape, but knowing how save energy will help the most. You learn by doing it alot and watching better climbers.
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jt512
May 2, 2002, 9:57 PM
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Spacemonkey, you seem to be confusing endurance and stamina. With respect to climbing, endurance refers to the number of consecutive moves that you can do before failure on a climb on which none of the individual moves is difficult. Stamina refers to how many climbs you can do in a day.
Both endurance and stamina can be improved by training, but you won't improve stamina much by training endurance. The best way to improve stamina is to gradually increase the length of your climbing sessions. If you currently poop out after 5 pitches, start climbing 6 pitches a day. If necessary, reduce the difficulty of the climbs, at first, but then increase them again as your stamina improves; then, increase the number of pitches again; and so on.
When my stamina is at its peak, I can do 11 to 12 single pitch routes in a day at or above my on-sight level.
-Jay
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spacemonkey
May 3, 2002, 2:43 AM
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Thanks Jay!
I think you're right about those terms too, that seems to make sense. Is there anything I can do outside of climbing that will help improve my stamina? As I said, I often cant get a belaying partner.
Thanks again for the clarification.
Peace!
Brian
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iclimbtoo
May 3, 2002, 3:46 AM
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I find running to be an excellent way of staying in shape and gaining muscle endurance. I run track, but in the off season, I try to run about 5-6 miles a day. This is a post I made about cramping up, which might help you out too if you start running a lot, but it also talks about how running with increase endurance...
...that's the key. bananas. I know, sounds dumb? I'm in the peak of track season right now and seriously, I eat at least two bananas a day, usually three. One in the morning, one before I exercise (whether running or climbing) and then one right when I'm done. The potassium in the bananas helps to reduce the buildup of lactic acid within muscle tisse which is what causes most muscle cramps. However, I suggest eating some other fruits as well, to help balance electrolytes and natural vitamins, which aid in helping your mitochondria produce your "energy". Long distance running will also help as this will increase the oxygen amount that your blood carries, also improving and increasing the mitochondria production, increasing the stamina and energy production of muscles. Okay, that's all!
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jt512
May 3, 2002, 5:06 PM
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I can't think of anything, besides climb more, that will directly improve your climbing stamina. You may just need to increase your circle of climbing partners so that you can climb more regularly. Improving your overall fitness level, using weights for strength and aerobic exercise for cardiovascular fitness will help some, but not nearly as much as increasing your volume of climbing.
-Jay
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beyond_gravity
May 3, 2002, 5:16 PM
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YOu know theres Fat, and then there's FAT, eh?
Well i'm fat, eh? Will loosing weight make you much of a better climber??
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camhead
May 3, 2002, 6:26 PM
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A couple points:
1) when you are climbing, climb more with your legs. Even Stallone's biceps (hey adrienne!!!) won't last all day.
2) Work endurance as opposed to difficulty in the gym. This applies to both climbing and weight lifting gyms. For example, try climbing for 45 minutes without hitting the ground, or try lifting obscenely high amounts of reps with lower weights.
3) If you are really massocistic, check out John Long's "Workout From Hell." I am a computer neanderthal, and I don't know how to post links, but you can find it through a search engine. IT WILL CHANGE YOUR LIFE!
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toobigtoclimb
May 3, 2002, 8:09 PM
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You can see the Workout from Hell here:
http://www.dtek.chalmers.se/Climbing/Training/TWFH.html
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jt512
May 3, 2002, 8:48 PM
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Will losing excess weight help your climbing? Hell, yes! It might not make much difference on low-angle climbs, but for the steep stuff you want to be lean and mean.
-Jay
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spacemonkey
May 4, 2002, 6:20 AM
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Dear GOD the Workout from Hell looks ROUGH. I just might consider it after I get back from Hawaii in two weeks. Thanks for all the input guys! This is by no means meant to close the thread though if other people out there have routines or something they want to share.
Peace!
Brian
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apollodorus
May 4, 2002, 7:01 AM
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Try running up hills. It's part aerobic, and part anaerobic. Just about right for climbing, since climbing is neither, but both.
You might have to tailor your workout to the type of climbing you're doing. If you're going for the 5.11/12 route, then anaerobic training is better. Lift weights, do pull-ups, etc. If you're going to do wall, then run your adze off, since walls are more aerobic (you C1 all the hard parts, but you have to haul all your junk up with you).
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spacemonkey
May 4, 2002, 3:42 PM
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I was actually thinking about doing stairs in a six story parking deck we have on my campus. Run up the stairs on one side, sprint to the opposite side once you reach the top floor, run down the other, sprint to the opposite side on the bottom floor, run back up. No pain no gain I guess.
Peace!
Brian
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freezerfrost
May 4, 2002, 4:59 PM
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If you can't cimb to get fit, weights help. I've done the whole Workout From Hell (WOFH), and can attest to its benefits. I estimate that I increased my endurance and strength by 30%. But more importantly, IMO, I got intimately familiar with the taste of lactic acid and my physical limits, and that's great to know to control the mind riot when I'm getting pumped. I now do a variation of the taper phase of the WOFH along with aerobic workouts (bike riding, running, hill climbing etc.), and am keeping my fitness up. Note that it's not the same as climbing. However, I think my fitness lets me adapt to climbing much faster than I would otherwise and keeps me injury free.
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