|
reno
Apr 12, 2004, 3:21 AM
Post #27 of 48
(5252 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 30, 2001
Posts: 18283
|
I once did a climb with a guy who slid a small rock into a length of webbing, and tied it off above and below the rock. The rock was now INSIDE the webbing, and he slotted it like a nut.
I had concerns about the abrasion of the webbing in case of a fall, but as he didn't fall, it was a moot point.
Still and all... kinda unique.
|
|
|
|
|
swissy131
Apr 13, 2004, 2:45 AM
Post #28 of 48
(5252 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 31, 2002
Posts: 27
|
yo,
I’m not going to be to historically precise here (do your own research to verify what I say) but back in the day (1920's-1950's) climbers in Europe (specifically Great Britain and Czechoslovakia) didn't have premade gear and would use nuts (as in nuts and bolts) on cord as pro. Also the cowstail (Piece of rope with a knot on the end which would be jammed into cracks) used to be standard gear throughout Europe.
When you compare the gear those climbers had to get by with to the "luxurious" gear we have today you start to realize that they were Ludicrously hard core.
- The Swiss Man
|
|
|
|
|
summerprophet
Apr 13, 2004, 3:01 AM
Post #29 of 48
(5252 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 17, 2004
Posts: 764
|
On an aid wall once, I hooked in a crack with my nut tool. It did the job, and saved my partner from having to dig out the hammer and pins from the bottom of the bag for a single move.
J.
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Apr 13, 2004, 3:21 AM
Post #30 of 48
(5252 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
In reply to: I once did a climb with a guy who slid a small rock into a length of webbing, and tied it off above and below the rock. The rock was now INSIDE the webbing, and he slotted it like a nut.
Actually, slinging chockstones is about as traditional as pro gets.
-Jay
|
|
|
|
|
vincent
Apr 13, 2004, 3:44 AM
Post #31 of 48
(5252 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 1, 2003
Posts: 178
|
the stovelegs a few have referred to were not actual stovelegs shoved into wide cracks. they were pitons made out of scrounged stovelegs. i'm sure you could find a crack to shove an actual stoveleg in though....
|
|
|
|
|
json
Apr 13, 2004, 3:56 AM
Post #32 of 48
(5252 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 29, 2004
Posts: 5
|
In Squamish there is a climb called march of the kitchen utensils- forget the grade, 5.8 maybe and in the smoke bluffs, anyways the FA was done using kitchen utensils for pro. A toaster, was used, knives and forks, stuff like that, made me laugh.
|
|
|
|
|
norushnomore
Apr 14, 2004, 9:13 AM
Post #33 of 48
(5252 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 4, 2002
Posts: 414
|
[quote="pyrosis"]One of my favorite climbs is called Candyland, an overhanging knobby face at the Phantom Spires in near Lake Tahoe, which could have been bolted but its not. You just go right up, slinging the knobs as you go. They're bomber. I guess its not that untraditional, but its ALL the pro for the whole climb. Its the un-sportclimb.
Tavis
Goes at 10b/c, very fun, all you need is 4-5 trad slings, quickdraws won't work thus a very true trad climb all face but the last move of the shalow horisontal crack
Must do
|
|
|
|
|
sharpie
Apr 14, 2004, 4:48 PM
Post #34 of 48
(5252 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 8, 2002
Posts: 1111
|
In reply to: In reply to: I once did a climb with a guy who slid a small rock into a length of webbing, and tied it off above and below the rock. The rock was now INSIDE the webbing, and he slotted it like a nut. Actually, slinging chockstones is about as traditional as pro gets. -Jay
He's saying that the guy put a rock inside a length of tubular webbing and tied it off then placed it like a stopper...not slung a chockstone. But, if he knotted one end, presumably the end that held the rock in place and got placed in the crack, how did he sling the other end or clip into it...Reno???
|
|
|
|
|
rjavery10
Jun 23, 2004, 1:59 PM
Post #35 of 48
(5252 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 25, 2004
Posts: 105
|
No sh-t, I actually used one of my climbing shoes as "pro". I took it off and slammed that bad boy into a crack and girth hitched it. I fell about 3 feet above it and it held. I didn't rest too long though. I think I fell because I didn't have the shoe on one foot so maybe I would have been better off not to have done it at all.
|
|
|
|
|
gritstoner
Jun 23, 2004, 2:49 PM
Post #36 of 48
(5252 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 1, 2003
Posts: 529
|
there is a route in north wales that has a cordless kettle about two thirds of the way up.
suicide wall has a tent peg in a small amount of grass on a ledge as one of the few pieces of gear.
|
|
|
|
|
off_route
Jun 23, 2004, 10:17 PM
Post #37 of 48
(5252 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 28, 2004
Posts: 88
|
I've always wanted to use my nut tool as pro....
Off_Route
|
|
|
|
|
sandstone
Jun 23, 2004, 10:47 PM
Post #38 of 48
(5252 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 21, 2004
Posts: 324
|
placed stones, slung with runners
jammed knots, cord or webbing
machine nuts slung with cord
home-made wooden wedges
home-made steel pitons
It's pretty cool that with a little drive and ingenuity you don't have to let something like poverty stand in the way of your dreams. That said, I am very thankful I'm no longer dirt poor, and especially thankful that I now have a proper rack. I still use the pitons on some aid climbs.
|
|
|
|
|
mingleefu
Jun 23, 2004, 10:49 PM
Post #39 of 48
(5252 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 24, 2003
Posts: 466
|
Isn't there some legendary off-width that was climbed by a couple of legendary climbers involving 2x4's? If I remember the story correctly, the leader climbed up with a tape measure and measured the crack, while someone else on the ground cut them to the right length and sent them up via zipline. They were slung and placed longways like a big bro, but this was pre big bro era.
I just did a google search and found something along this line called "Stahl Brothers Chimney" at The Outback-Rock Hudson.. Linked.. is that the one I'm thinking of?
There's also a TR about using a 2x4 as pro on terragalleria.com
My question about that story still stands.. I know I read it somewhere...
|
|
|
|
|
wlderdude
Jul 2, 2004, 3:04 AM
Post #40 of 48
(5252 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 8, 2002
Posts: 1123
|
I have heard of people using sissor jacks for chimney pro. I have always wanted to try it, but have never been willing to pack in anything that heavy, even for TR.
|
|
|
|
|
goodwill
Jul 2, 2004, 4:44 AM
Post #41 of 48
(5252 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 30, 2004
Posts: 28
|
In reply to: Isn't there some legendary off-width that was climbed by a couple of legendary climbers involving 2x4's? If I remember the story correctly, the leader climbed up with a tape measure and measured the crack, while someone else on the ground cut them to the right length and sent them up via zipline. They were slung and placed longways like a big bro, but this was pre big bro era.
I don't know about the tape measure and zipline, but Open Book at Tahquitz was first climbed using 2x4's for pro. I'd consider it a pretty legendary climb (America's first 5.9) and it was first climbed by Royal Robbins, certainly a legendary climber.
|
|
|
|
|
incogneato
Jul 2, 2004, 5:11 AM
Post #42 of 48
(5252 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 16, 2004
Posts: 35
|
In reply to: In Squamish there is a climb called march of the kitchen utensils- forget the grade, 5.8 maybe and in the smoke bluffs, anyways the FA was done using kitchen utensils for pro. A toaster, was used, knives and forks, stuff like that, made me laugh.
Sorry dude, but that is way off!
"March of the Kitchen Utensils" is an easy off-width on the back-side of the Chief (not the Smoke Bluffs). It was named for the first nude ascent of Diedre when the climbers used utensils for pro, pots for helmets, and paper bags over their faces to conceal their identity.
|
|
|
|
|
ikellen
Jul 2, 2004, 6:05 AM
Post #43 of 48
(5252 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 13, 2003
Posts: 393
|
This guy I climbed with told me this story that back when he first starting tradding, he would simply grab car parts from a junk yard, wedge them and then sling them, and that was his pro :lol:
|
|
|
|
|
qpang
Jul 2, 2004, 6:08 AM
Post #44 of 48
(5252 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 121
|
I once tried using my nuts as "nuts", but I wouldn't recommend it. It really hurts if you fall on them, and they tend to pull out as you climb up. :shock:
|
|
|
|
|
mrtristan
Jul 2, 2004, 12:59 PM
Post #46 of 48
(5252 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 21, 2002
Posts: 596
|
That pic is awesome!
I've been thinking about jamming slung rocks and knotted slings into cracks and then testing them to see how well they hold... Maybe when I go climbing tomorrow... I'll keep you guys posted.
-Tristan
|
|
|
|
|
angry
Jul 2, 2004, 1:24 PM
Post #47 of 48
(5252 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
|
There's a climb called Horn's Mother in Vedauwoo that was climbed using 2x4's, in fact, some of them are still stuck back in the pod.
As far as the Nalgene bottle goes, I don't think you guys were talking about me but I have placed mine on lead. Not because I needed to but because it was funny. I placed a toothbrush to protect the final moves of some silly route in Boulder last weekend. Again, just screwing around.
I met a dude in th valley a few years back who actually had cast wallnuts out of brass. He used them like stoppers and loved them.
I talked to a guy that said a king size snickers burried in a T-trench is a bomber anchor. I called BS on him and it was summer so he couldn't prove it. Maybe it'd work.
|
|
|
|
|
crag
Jul 2, 2004, 1:33 PM
Post #48 of 48
(5252 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 29, 2003
Posts: 623
|
In reply to: This guy I climbed with told me this story that back when he first starting tradding, he would simply grab car parts from a junk yard, wedge them and then sling them, and that was his pro :lol:
Valves made great pitons, gotta love them old push rod engines.
|
|
|
|
|
|
