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vashie
Jul 4, 2004, 3:36 AM
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Registered: May 12, 2004
Posts: 149
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I ran into my first aid experience by accident just recently. A once nice crimp hold on this short sandstone trad rout has been sheared off and was way too small to hold on to. I thought of using my nut tool as a hook and aiding the move, bad idea. What would be a good general hook I could take on my rack for just such an occasion? pleas help I am scared.
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coylec
Jul 4, 2004, 4:04 AM
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Registered: Jul 12, 2003
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The first reply is not the best reply.
I'd argue for the talon . It's three hooks for the price of one. The tripod shape provides additional stablity and its the most clusterf--- free of the hooks that I have.
It's large enough to be comfortable, but small enough to work in many places. The three hooks give you variety in placement options.
I'd recommend it because its my personal favorite, though.
A word of warning: the use of hooks on delicate holds is, as Bender would say, "counterindicated by my manufacturer's instructions". It applies the entirity of your bodyweight + gear (usu. a lot), into a very small point. In weak rock, you can shear off more hold and damage a route. I don't know the proper etiquette regarding aiding free routes in your area, so I'll default to your judgment on whether you should or not ... I'm merely offering advice regarding how you could.
coylec
edit: "a word of warning" added.
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coylec
Jul 6, 2004, 5:22 PM
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Registered: Jul 12, 2003
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pmyche - i was playing around with my BD nuttool ... its very unstable and has a tendancy to rotate ... unlike hooks, which typically have two point at the base for stablity, a nut tool is only going to have one point. i'd add something about "manufacturer's instructions" except jerry-rigging seems to be a fact of life here in the aid forum.
vashie - you may want to do some searches for favorite hooks in the forums search and read through the gear reviews. Hooks are listed under passive protection (cause that's what they are).
coylec
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tradmanclimbs
Jul 6, 2004, 11:45 PM
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Registered: Apr 24, 2003
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the talon feels a bit more stable to me and i prefer it for thin hooking but the talons large radius lets you hook larger features.
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coylec
Jul 7, 2004, 1:54 AM
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Registered: Jul 12, 2003
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i've been getting bored here in portland ... i may have to take up welding :twisted:
coylec
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