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gogo
Jul 6, 2004, 3:20 PM
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Anyone have any tips for building a better head and more confidence on lead? I've found that the way my head works when I climb sometimes doesn't make sense. On easier routes with bigger runouts, I don't slow down or worry about falling. On harder routes that are near my limit, I tend to move a lot slower and worry too much about taking a fall. Obviously thinking like this is wrong, as I should worry about a big fall rather than a small fall on hard climbing. This is really becoming bothersome, because a lot of these hard routes I have absolutely no trouble cleaning, but on lead I have commitment problems. Any tips? Thanks
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asandh
Jul 6, 2004, 4:45 PM
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:)
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doktor_g
Jul 6, 2004, 4:58 PM
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Gogo, An age old question to be sure. Lots of techniques here's a few that I use, but I'm pretty sketched too. Big runouts are a way to get hurt. I don't do them unless it's necessary for speed, to gain a better stance or lack of opportunity. Be comfy with your gear. Get on those lines that are just below your limit. Intead of taking up a full rack, take up all chocks or all tri cams etc. It'll add a whole new dimension to the recipe of: 1st piece = yellow alien, 2nd piece = #7 stopper, 3rd piece = red camalot etc. ad nauseum. On those test pieces... Try rehearsal... Rap down and place bomber gear. At the cruxes, place two equalized pieces. Practice falling on the crux. Take a fall under your gear, then at, then above, then higher above. Falling will do wonders for your lead head. "Let go of your anxiety." so to speak. I'm working on this too, and it's a big issue for me. Check out a book by Arlo Ilgner called The Rock Warrior's Way - Mental training for climbing. There's also a forum on this site for his devotes. Good luck, Grover
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alpnclmbr1
Jul 6, 2004, 5:58 PM
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You trust your own climbing more then you do the rope. This is not a bad thing, overall. Pick a route with lots of good gear and practice falling on it. You should not be scared of falling on good backed up gear three feet below your waist. Then go back to being scared of falling, but a little less scared when your gear and the potential fall looks good.
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roughster
Jul 6, 2004, 6:23 PM
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roughster moved this thread from Sport Climbing to Trad Climbing.
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crater
Jul 6, 2004, 6:28 PM
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Practice placing gear in awkward positions. Here is the deal. Go on a ridiculously easy climb for yourself. Get into wierd positions and practice placing pro. Do this on the ground as well. Learning how to get comfortable with the uncomfortable will help. This is only one technique that could help. Let me know if any of you have any opinions about that. I am curious. It was something I was thinking about this past weekend.
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afiveonbelay
Jul 6, 2004, 10:36 PM
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[quote=" Run it out and free solo. Of course on easy stuff, probably that you've done reapeatedly. Not for everyone, some will disagree with doing or suggesting this. I don't think it can be argued that it mentally hones. Aid climb. Nothing like a few hundered aid placements (a mere several pitches worth) to help refine your ability to grab the right piece first time and recognize less-obvious but bomber placements. . right on pmyche ps. had bad lead head this weekend, free soloed a 5 easy for tr set up and now feel better. take two and call me in the morning
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muncher
Jul 6, 2004, 10:46 PM
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Learn to trust your gear. You don't spend all that money on it and all that time placing it for nothing. obviously there are times when you can't fall but try and rationalize your fear in situations where a fall will be OK. The more often you fall the mosre confident you will become, the more you will be able to concentrate on the climbing and not on trying not to fall. There are a number of good books/articles around on such things. Just get there and practice, having the experience and knowledge to know that your gear is solid enough to hold a fall is paramount to pushing your limits.
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muncher
Jul 6, 2004, 10:53 PM
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Maybe try punching a few cones before hand, seems to work for some, then again it could just make you even more paranoid. Stop being such a purse carrying Nancy and get out there and on some routes that you are more than likely to fall off. lol
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jt512
Jul 6, 2004, 11:02 PM
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In reply to: Anyone have any tips for building a better head and more confidence on lead? I've found that the way my head works when I climb sometimes doesn't make sense. On easier routes with bigger runouts, I don't slow down or worry about falling. On harder routes that are near my limit, I tend to move a lot slower and worry too much about taking a fall. Obviously thinking like this is wrong, as I should worry about a big fall rather than a small fall on hard climbing. When you are on easier routes, you know you won't fall. Not being distracted by thoughts of falling, you focus on the climbing, and climb smoothly and continuously. In turn, this focus on the climbing itself prevents your thoughts from wandering to the consequences of a fall. In contrast, when you are on harder climbs, you worry about the consequences of falling, which distracts you from focusing on the climbing itself. Ironically, if you could focus on the climbing itself, you'd climb better, and be less likely to fall or have to rest on the rope. Thus, the key is to maintain your focus on the climbing, rather than on the possibility of falling. How do you accomplish that? The first step is to learn to assess the consequence of a fall from the ground, or from a good rest. Look at the next section of the climb, and determine how dangerous or safe a fall will be. If you truly believe the fall is safe, then your mind can be free to focus on the moves. Once you start to climb, if you find your thoughts wandering to falling, remind yourself that you already assessed the consequences of the fall, and redirect your attention back to the climbing. If you have trouble accurately assessing the consequences of a fall, this indicates a lack of sufficient experience with falling, and I would recommend that you take practice falls above good gear on safe terrain with a good belayer. I must leave it to you to determine what constitutes "good," "safe," and "good," respectively, in this context. An entire book has been written that addresses precisely the question you've asked. It's called The Rock Warrior's Way by Arno Ilgner. If you look at the forum index of this website, you'll see that we have a restricted forum dedicated to learning the mental training approaches discussed in Ilgner's book. Feel free to peruse the forum, and to join the associated usergroup if you are interested. -Jay
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barc
Jul 6, 2004, 11:13 PM
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In reply to: Stop the inane practice of clipping safe bolts in a safe gym. No wonder gym rats go into paralysis four number grades below their free climbing limit on real rock. Clipping bolts in a gym is good practice for clipping bolts on sport climbs. For trad and aid, it only dulls the mental edge. I definately agree with this. I've sent a lot of time in gyms, and I like gyms to a degree. However, I definatly think a lot of gym time gets you thinking a little too much on trad climbs. Espescially, harder trad climbs. I think you just need to climb more on kind of stuff you are sewing up. The old schoolers are always so solid on what they are leading because that was the style. Us sporto punks are such pusses sometimes for the same reason. If you are flipping because you can't get your damn toes in that finger crack, just get on more of them. Alot more of them. It'll come. Take on your gear, fall on your gear too. That sh__ works. Elliott.
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dredsovrn
Jul 22, 2004, 1:58 AM
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Read the Rock Warriors Way and lead a lot.
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mhh35
Jul 22, 2004, 11:49 PM
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read How to Climb 5.12 by Eric j horst
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dotc
Jul 23, 2004, 4:48 PM
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I find frequency of climbing is important. The more often I lead, the more confident I feel. Taking two or three weeks off without leading is a recipe for shakiness. Lead every time you go out. Leading ice all winter makes it easier to get back into the game in the spring. Before I started ice climbing, I would train all winter in the gym, but it wouldn't do a damn bit of good at the start of the rock season, because my head wasn't there. I also got in the bad habit for a while of repeating the same routes all the time. Now I make it a point to do at least one new route every time I go out. Onsighting is a good way to build confidence. Recognize "bad head days" when they happen and don't beat yourself up over them. Let your best days define you as a climber, not the times you place twenty pieces in a 30' 5.4 and end up bailling anyway. Hope this helps, Cheers, DOTC
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jonnyb
Jul 23, 2004, 5:25 PM
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In reply to: Read the Rock Warriors Way and lead a lot. I'd second this. It's definitely the best thing I've read about working on your lead head.
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jumaringjeff
Jul 23, 2004, 5:57 PM
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In reply to: Maybe try punching a few cones before hand, seems to work for some, then again it could just make you even more paranoid. Stop being such a purse carrying Nancy and get out there and on some routes that you are more than likely to fall off. lol wow, you're funny. I almost pissed myself laughing. :roll:
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pbjosh
Jul 25, 2004, 6:16 AM
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Make sure you are placing good gear, know when it's good and when it's sketch, lead as much as possible, etc. Sport climbing can get you much more casual about whipping.
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