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ricardol
Jul 7, 2004, 7:19 PM
Post #26 of 39
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.. actually .. i think you guys are right ..
.. i just found it pretty easy to go straight into solo-aid climbing with pete's info .. maybe thats the statement i meant to make..
.. i didn't have any partnered aid climbing prior to my soloing..
-- ricardo
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lambone
Jul 7, 2004, 7:31 PM
Post #27 of 39
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that's cool, nothin wrong with that!
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atg200
Jul 7, 2004, 7:54 PM
Post #28 of 39
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In reply to: .. i didn't have any partnered aid climbing prior to my soloing..
an awful lot of people learned to aid climb solo well before people started spraying about it on the internet. your experience isn't terribly unique in that regard, and its been done many times by many people without a mentor, a paid instructor, or ptpp. it ain't rocket science - it just seems that way if you are reading pete's posts.
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ricardol
Jul 7, 2004, 8:42 PM
Post #29 of 39
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In reply to: In reply to: .. i didn't have any partnered aid climbing prior to my soloing.. an awful lot of people learned to aid climb solo well before people started spraying about it on the internet. your experience isn't terribly unique in that regard, and its been done many times by many people without a mentor, a paid instructor, or ptpp. it ain't rocket science - it just seems that way if you are reading pete's posts.
true ..
.. my point was only that i found pete's posts helpful .. and that his stuff worked for me .. YMMV ..
.. regarding the rest of your post.. i hardly care how unique my experience is.. i am just happy to have survived it.. -- but since you seem to care, go ahead and make up a list of people who have soloed a grade VI wall, with 11 months of climbing experience total, and no prior big wall experience ..
... i'm betting the # of people on that list is less than 100.
.. sheesh .. atg.. sometimes you're just a little b*tch ..
-- ricardo
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atg200
Jul 7, 2004, 9:51 PM
Post #30 of 39
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ricardol, you sure are a sensitive little thing, aren't you? i wasn't criticizing you - i was just pointing out that this statement:
In reply to: .. without his posts you'd either a - need a mentor to teach you aid soloing b - need to pay someone to teach you aid soloing
is completely untrue since many people(myself included) have taught themselves to aid climb by soloing, long before ptpp wrote anything on the net.
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megableem
Jul 7, 2004, 9:56 PM
Post #31 of 39
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,
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ricardol
Jul 7, 2004, 10:00 PM
Post #32 of 39
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In reply to: i wasn't criticizing you -
.. i must have misread your post then ..
.. ugh -- see what happens when you're at work, and you dont have any work to do .. maybe i'll go catch a movie ..
-- ricardo
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flamer
Jul 7, 2004, 10:50 PM
Post #33 of 39
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In reply to: make up a list of people who have soloed a grade VI wall, with 11 months of climbing experience total, and no prior big wall experience .. ... i'm betting the # of people on that list is less than 100.
There are 2 ways too look at what you did;
#1 You're just a bad a$$ human being(you hadn't done enough climbing to be a bad a$$ climber)
#2 You proved how easy climbing big walls (especially certain trade routes) has become.
Personally I don't care which one anybody thinks you proved, but if you think one you should defiantly keep the other one in mind.
I have a friend who recently soloed El cap- Zodiac.
It was his frist El cap route, although he had done several other walls and lot's of aid.
He did it in just under 3 days. He used NONE of pete's systems.
His belay? Clove hitch. When I asked him how he got the bag on and off the anchor he told me he used a standard daisy. How did he lower out the pig? He used the slack in his lead line. He used traditional daisy's.
He used 2 jugs and didn't even have a grigri with him.
HE IS A GOOD CLIMBER.
josh
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iamthewallress
Jul 7, 2004, 10:51 PM
Post #34 of 39
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In reply to: regarding the rest of your post.. i hardly care how unique my experience is.. i am just happy to have survived it.. -- but since you seem to care, go ahead and make up a list of people who have soloed a grade VI wall, with 11 months of climbing experience total, and no prior big wall experience .. ... i'm betting the # of people on that list is less than 100. .. sheesh .. atg.. sometimes you're just a little b*tch .. -- ricardo
Here's the thing, ricardo...if not atg's intent, what was in the back of my mind when I read your post (a lot of your posts, in fact): We KNOW that you feel special for your solo of the Zodiac. It was a cool thing to do. But, jeebus...move on. Do something else so that every point of view that you ever express here doesn't refer to your Zodiac solo. We've aplauded all year, and now our hands hurt.
Also, I don't think that most folks should try to solo or do grade VI's so soon after starting climbing. Some can do so just fine, but trying to do stunt X with the least amount of experience can be a dicey way to get a few kudos. I think it's more interesting to just take whatever talent you have and use it well over the long hall. When people try to short-cut the learning process and jump on popular routes that are too hard for them, bad things can happen...bad for the route (nailing clean pitches), bad for the person climbing (dangerous, loose their rack when they can't clean the popular free climb they've speant hours aiding), bad for the other parties that want to climb there too (see previous two, plus the bottleneck factor).
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ricardol
Jul 8, 2004, 12:01 AM
Post #35 of 39
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rc.com .. is a tiny litle community .. that we inhabit while we work during the week and dream about climbing ..
.. for me its basically a place to go and dream about the climbs i want to do..
.. so since i haven't done anything nearly as big as zodiac, it keeps on coming up for me ..
.. i totally get that i've talked about it enuf ..
.. melissa .. i'm glad that i'm not making the same mistakes i made in the past -- i'm looking forward to making new ones ..
-- ricardo
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lambone
Jul 8, 2004, 12:10 AM
Post #36 of 39
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In reply to: I have a friend who recently soloed El cap- Zodiac. It was his frist El cap route, although he had done several other walls and lot's of aid. He did it in just under 3 days. josh
damn, that's fast for carrying bivi gear. That takes more than just being a good climber, that takes some serious physical strength and endurance.
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solo
Jul 8, 2004, 7:51 AM
Post #37 of 39
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Registered: Feb 12, 2003
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In reply to: Load release knots, 2-1 hauling ratchets, etc? You should never need to bring enough gear/food/water on a grade V to justify them - it will just slow you down (and therefore require more food/water!)
Nah, I meant 1:1 hauling tips. I have never used 2:1, I guess it is allmost allways an overkill.
Load release knot is just convenient. I found it easy to tie and useful even with not-that-heavy pig.
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lambone
Jul 8, 2004, 4:34 PM
Post #38 of 39
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Yall should give ricardo a break. Why should you care if he wants to spout about his huge accomplishment. If you have never soloed a route like the Zodiac, you really have no idea how overwhelming and consuming the feeling of accomplishment is. I can relate, in fact I loved it so much I have basically given up any intrest in most other forms of climbing, with the exception of asthetic alpine stuff and ice. bouldering, cragging, sporto days...mere childs play, not even worth the effort....I'd rather ride my singlespeed mountain bike and get a real workout. Just my opinion, you may have the opposite, and that's fine too.
Second, I don't think there is anything wrong with ricardo supporting PTPP's info on this web site. It obviously helped him out alot, so whats the problem with that? Yeah, he went a little far in his statement that without PTPP's info an up-n-coming aid soloist must rely on some other teacher...but so what. It is really not a bad suggestion to encourage newbies to find a mentor or take a class.
Anyway, my view is that amidst all of PTPP's BS there is some really valuable info, but it is still up to the individual to experiment with different techniques, and maybe be creative and invent your own way, this is how you really learn what works best. And it is almost allways situational, so having a BIG bag of different tricks is a really good thing.
On the otherhand, I believe Pete continues to give climbers a bad name in Yosemite by blatantly violating park rules (like tossing haulbags from the summit, and having open fires on the summit), not only that but promoting these illegal activities openly on the internet, and making statements to rangers like "all the bears should be shot" and "you should put in boxes at the base of el cap where I can store my shit to make my life easier." This is a guy who is publised in mainstream climbing magazines, and is obviously someone who speaks for the climing community as a whole (unfortunately). Or at least thats the way I'm sure the Tool sees it.
For this reason I have a hard time supporting any of Petes otherwise quality information, it is a shame really, because he could be a good teacher otherwise.
Just my 2 cents :)
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notyetabigwaller
Jul 11, 2004, 7:39 AM
Post #39 of 39
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Registered: Mar 8, 2003
Posts: 27
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so how do you realy feel?
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