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onbelay007
May 26, 2004, 1:42 AM
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Registered: Apr 20, 2004
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Hi, I am desperately seeking a climbing partner for Memorial Day weekend. I'm planning on going to Devil's Lake (willing to go down south as well though) to climb. I haven't been outside in several weeks due to weather or partners bailing on me. So, I must get outdoors this weekend. About myself: I'm 24, from the Chicagoland area, and have been climbing indoors on and off for two years now (comfortable on 5.9 to 5.10). My outdoor experience is minimal but I have done some anchor courses and a little bit of very easy multi-pitch trad. Ideally I'm looking for a trad mentor (toproping is fine but I'd really like to start learning trad). I have a pretty standard rack I guess (handful of cams, stoppers, tri-cams, hexes, etc). If anyone is looking for a partner let me know. Or if you already have a partner but wouldn't mind letting me join send me a note. Thanks.
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onbelay007
May 26, 2004, 1:37 PM
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Registered: Apr 20, 2004
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By the way, I don't have to climb at Devil's Lake. It just appeared that most people on this board go there. I'm willing to drive pretty much anywhere. So if you're down south climbing and am willing to climb with me let me know.
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shank
May 26, 2004, 2:04 PM
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Registered: May 14, 2002
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How far are you from Mississippi Palisades? Seems like alot of people that climb at devils lake are going there Memorial day weekend. http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=59753
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euroford
May 29, 2004, 3:56 PM
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Registered: Aug 26, 2002
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if you end up just heading up to DL my bro and i plan to head up on sunday just for the day. we'll be doing some trad over in the cleo amp or at porkchop and i'd be happy to give ya some trad experience. porkchop looks like fun, i headed halfway up it last time but bailed due to insufficiant gear. i'll be properly equiped next time. if you remeber last weeks weather it RAINED so we hiked out of camp with highly minimal racks. look for a yellow lambo diablo vt (yeah i'm serious) in the parking lot and you'll know we are over there, just hollar for tim and tim :)
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euroford
May 31, 2004, 4:13 PM
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FYI: the weather looks crappy, and i have to much work to do at home. didn't go this weekend, probobly will next though.
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sync
May 31, 2004, 6:01 PM
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Registered: Aug 22, 2003
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GRR..:x we've had rain virtually every weekend in May. I haven't gone to the Lake since May 1st. :cry:
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euroford
May 31, 2004, 6:35 PM
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i went last weekend, got in on friday, stayed through sunday. the weatherconditions on friday were epic, and so was the drive (2 hours of stop and go on 94!!). we pitched camp in a total downpour with lightning crashing all around, then went to the schoolhouse for pizza n beer. woke up in a drizzle and decided we would head out for some hikeing and maybe some rapelling for the heck of it. we hiked out of ice age up the west buttress with a minimal rack and skinny rope. decieded the cleo spire would be likely dry (kinda dry, definitly more intresting than ussual)as its freestanding so we climbed it. everything else in the ampitheater was a soaked wet oozefest covered in mud. after the spire we jugged some boyscouts (buitifull day for a boyscout climbing outing...) rapell line to get out of the ampitheater. we got totally covered in mud! the sun started to peak out about now, it was absolutly peasoup fogged before that, we couldn't even see the ampitherer or the base of the climb from the summit of the spire. we hiked down the other end of the butteres trail and back up the tumbled rocks trail, decieded to check out porkchop. got halfway up till i diecided i didn't have enough gear (remember we didn't plan to actually climb that day), brought up my partner and rapped off the trees. the weather stayed paltable but extremely humid till about 11 (nothing dryed, not even my capelene shirt), thank god as it allowed us to cook the food and drink the beer we brought with us. after 11 the sky onece again opened up to epic thunderstorms. these two nights i'd never heard thundstorms of that proportion before. when we woke up the campground looked like it got hit by a tornado. i swear i think my lightwedge 3 was the only tent standing in ice age! the poeple accross from us looked totally nackered. i think they must have spent the night holding up there wallmart special. it ended up being a fun trip, and about as epic as a DL trip could get. we didn't get in near as much lead time as we wanted but manged a good time anyways. it beat handing out in chicago for the weekend. i'm really glad we didn't bring the wives this time!! yup. the weather has just sucked, but if i plan in advance to make a full weekend trip i'm not going to cancle on account of weather. i always end up having fun anyways. viscous thunderstorms sound pretty amazing inside a tent. however, a day trip is one i want to make the most of, and shit weather will get that cancled. oh well, i have work to do around the house anyways. time for another epic home depot trip....
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euroford
May 31, 2004, 6:39 PM
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Registered: Aug 26, 2002
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BTW: if anybody ever wants to hook up while they are at the lake look around for either a black ford focus sedan with texas plates, climbing stickers and blacked out windows (the weekend trip car) or the yellow lambo (the day trip car, not mine, my brother in laws, also named tim) and holler for tim. i think i'll be spending most of my time on the west butt for the next couple trips, but i definitly enjoy some routes on the east as well.
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onbelay007
May 31, 2004, 7:55 PM
Post #10 of 18
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Registered: Apr 20, 2004
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Euroford, I hear you about that weather. I was planning on going up Friday after work but right before I left I checked the weather and it didn't look too promising. I had made plans to climb the last 4 weekends but weather or bailing partners had stopped me. So, determined to do something I printed out some topos to Southern IL and hit the road. The weather looked nasty for sunday so I just did some saturday bouldering. I wasn't too impressed with So Ill. It does have alot of potential thought. It just needs to be cleaned up a little and I had no brushes. Also, it would be much better in late September through December (the forest is friggin thick with bug infestation). Anyhow, I'm definately planning on heading up to Devils Lake next weekend. Desparate to start trad climbing. If you plan on going let me know and we can hook up.
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onbelay007
Jun 2, 2004, 2:05 AM
Post #11 of 18
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Registered: Apr 20, 2004
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Oh yeah. I'll definately do some bouldering too. Usaully have my crash pad in my car all the time. So, if you want to tackle some 30 degree overhanging crimpfests let me know. Always up for that.
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euroford
Jun 2, 2004, 12:54 PM
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Registered: Aug 26, 2002
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30 degree overhanding? i guess i'll bring my aiders!
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brianthew
Jun 3, 2004, 12:22 AM
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
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Offtopic, but curious: Where be these 30 degree crimp faces? My bouldering experiences in Devil's Lake has been, so far, mainly slabs and vertical crimpfests, with the random talus boulder tilted on its side offering V-crazy bouldering over spine-snapping landings.
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ahddrew
Jun 3, 2004, 12:32 AM
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Registered: Mar 8, 2004
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Anyone up for some trad on Sat? I am heading over (weather permiting) early in the AM. 007 you missed a great night of camping Friday night. I decided at the last minute to put the fly on my tent before I passed out, and boy am I glad I did. The weather forecast as of early Friday morning was for perfect weather on Fri. AND Sat. That was a lie. I laid in my tent Sat morning waiting for the rain to let up. It didn't! Finally about 1030 the water started coming throgh the floor (no walmart special tent either). I drove home! Hope to see you Sat.
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ramylson
Jun 3, 2004, 2:30 PM
Post #15 of 18
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Registered: Apr 17, 2000
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In reply to: Offtopic, but curious: Where be these 30 degree crimp faces? My bouldering experiences in Devil's Lake has been, so far, mainly slabs and vertical crimpfests, with the random talus boulder tilted on its side offering V-crazy bouldering over spine-snapping landings. Some of the newer areas along the West Bluff are exactly this.. overhanging faces. Chad (rokklym) said the same thing the last time I took him over there.. Anyway, here's some eye candy: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=28235 http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=28165 ..the second picture actually has several overhanging problems.
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onbelay007
Jun 10, 2004, 2:16 AM
Post #16 of 18
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Registered: Apr 20, 2004
Posts: 107
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Heading up to the lake this weekend. Did my first proper lead last weekend on Brintons crack (hell of a good time). Any advice on some good leads around a 5.6 or 5.7?
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sync
Jun 10, 2004, 4:30 PM
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Registered: Aug 22, 2003
Posts: 125
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How about one of these: Berkeley (5.6) - right around the corner from Brinton's Crack. Birthday Crack (5.7) - off the railroad tracks - easy approach. Lost Face (5.6-5.8 ) - longest climb on the West Bluff.
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