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Carrying a nut-tool on lead
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yay_chris


Jul 13, 2004, 6:39 PM
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Carrying a nut-tool on lead
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Does anyone do this?

Just wondering!
Peace.


kungfuclimber


Jul 13, 2004, 6:42 PM
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yes. Because sometimes I want to fish a placement out thats not optimal, but mostly because I don't want to get caught without it for the next pitch (assuming multipitch switching leads).


bigdrop


Jul 13, 2004, 6:42 PM
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Yup,

Every once and a while i change my mind about a placement.

I place slung hexs alot and even when unweighted they can somtimes be tricky for me to reposition or remove.

~jc


kman


Jul 13, 2004, 6:43 PM
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yup


dirtineye


Jul 13, 2004, 6:51 PM
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What else are you going to clean dirt out of a crack with?


yay_chris


Jul 13, 2004, 6:57 PM
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Wow... I was sure people were going to say "pssf... no!"

I've been tempted to bring one up with me on several occations for most of the reasons prevously mentioned. Now I just might start!

My philosophy was, if I can't get out a non-optimal piece, I leave it for the second... but I think a nut-tool might be a good idea.


Partner coylec


Jul 13, 2004, 9:18 PM
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Yes, though I haven't used it much.

coylec


addiroids


Jul 13, 2004, 9:42 PM
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What else are you going to clean dirt out of a crack with?

Well since I usually climb total gumby routes that HAVE had a previous FA, I carry the nut tool on lead so as to get booty gear before my second has a chance. Rule is that the leader has to clean it from a stance, not hanging on gear. If you have to hang, the second gets it. Besides, the nut tool never comes off my harness. There is no reason not for both people to have a nut tool. It just stays there like a belay device.

TRADitionally yours,

Cali Dirtbag


korporal


Jul 13, 2004, 10:03 PM
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One of my partners learned to carry his nut tool the hard way. He was about 20 feet of the deck without protection when he tried to get a sling around a column in a crack and he couldn't. Luckly we were a group of three and one of us (me) wasn't doing anything. The ground went up to about 10 feet to the side of where the leader was. I walked up it and then bouldered the few feet over to him and handed him his nut tool.


reno


Jul 13, 2004, 10:11 PM
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Yep, unless my second doesn't have one (which automatically means he/she has to buy the beer,) for all the reasons mentioned.


keithlester
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Jul 14, 2004, 8:32 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
What else are you going to clean dirt out of a crack with?

Well since I usually climb total gumby routes that HAVE had a previous FA, I carry the nut tool on lead so as to get booty gear before my second has a chance. Rule is that the leader has to clean it from a stance, not hanging on gear. If you have to hang, the second gets it. Besides, the nut tool never comes off my harness. There is no reason not for both people to have a nut tool. It just stays there like a belay device.

TRADitionally yours,

Cali Dirtbag

Rules? what are these things called rules? You're a climber, rules dont apply. If you booty a bit of gear, its yours, full stop. You'll be tellin us next you pay your taxes on time and stick to the speed limit. Who let these nice people start climbing?


brutusofwyde


Jul 14, 2004, 11:42 AM
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Not only for the aforementioned cleaning dirt out of cracks, I carry mine on well-travelled routes so I can scarf the odd piece of booty onto my rack before my second ever sees it!

Brutus


keithlester
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Jul 14, 2004, 1:10 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
What else are you going to clean dirt out of a crack with?

Well since I usually climb total gumby routes that HAVE had a previous FA, I carry the nut tool on lead so as to get booty gear before my second has a chance. Rule is that the leader has to clean it from a stance, not hanging on gear. If you have to hang, the second gets it. Besides, the nut tool never comes off my harness. There is no reason not for both people to have a nut tool. It just stays there like a belay device.

TRADitionally yours,

Cali Dirtbag

By the way, you're dead right about both climbers having their own tool, and always carrying it. It gets alot more uses than just removing gear. Threading slings is one that comes immediately to mind, and cleaning cracks like another poster wrote.

I just bought the metolius tool, and I like the weight its gonna save by having its own krab. Usually it lives on my harness when I'm leading and on a gearsling if I'm cleaning a pitch, I suspect thats quite a popular way with most tradders.

I never tried a leash, but I can see it has some plusses and one major minus, already referred to. That would be the same as letting axes dangle from your wrists when you are winter climbing in a chimney, a damn nuisance.


Partner j_ung


Jul 14, 2004, 1:13 PM
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It's not a whole lot of extra weight, so you might as well. I don't, however. Not for any particular reason, though. I just never needed one.


Partner coldclimb


Jul 14, 2004, 1:17 PM
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I bring mine when I can.


markc


Jul 14, 2004, 1:32 PM
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If I'm trad climbing, my nut tool is with me.

For a keeper cord, I use a retractable keychain (like janitors carry) clipped to my chalk bag belt. If I drop my tool, it automatically retracts. The cord is a thin plastic-coated metal cable, which is just about the reach of my arm. I keep it fairly far back where it stays out of the way.


skinnyjim


Jul 14, 2004, 1:39 PM
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I keep mine with me for booty gear, cleaning cracks, etc.. Why not carry it with you?


petro


Jul 14, 2004, 3:14 PM
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How else are you supposed to open the beer?


addiroids


Jul 14, 2004, 10:51 PM
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NEVER NEVER NEVER Put your nut tool on a stretchy keeper cord. The muthafvcker will invariably catch on something high, and snap back right in your face.

Just put like 1' of 3 mil tie off cord on it and onto the biner (in a straight line, not a loop or it will get all twisted).

No offense, but if I see someone with a damn janitor thing on their nut tool, they usually have a shiny set of cams on them too.

TRADitionally yours,

Cali Dirtbag


Partner coldclimb


Jul 15, 2004, 12:23 AM
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In reply to:
NEVER NEVER NEVER Put your nut tool on a stretchy keeper cord. The muthafvcker will invariably catch on something high, and snap back right in your face.

hehehe, yeah those things DO have the nastiest habit of snagging everything that's possible to snag, and some things that are impossible as well. :evil:


cjain


Jul 15, 2004, 1:57 AM
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[quote="addiroids"]
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Rule is that the leader has to clean it from a stance, not hanging on gear. If you have to hang, the second gets it.

What kind of dumb rule is that? :-) Forget about the second! If I can get my grubby hands on it, by hook or by crook, its ALL MINE.


shakylegs


Jul 15, 2004, 3:53 AM
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No offense, but if I see someone with a damn janitor thing on their nut tool, they usually have a shiny set of cams on them too.

TRADitionally yours,

Cali Dirtbag

Oh, so you met me at a crag several years ago, did you? Yeah, the keychain thing didn't last long.


flipnfall


Jul 15, 2004, 4:43 AM
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Yes! Along with my swords and skewers. But seriously, yes I have, but usually the second guy has it for cleaning.

GT


dirtineye


Jul 15, 2004, 6:24 AM
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[quote="cjain"]
In reply to:
In reply to:

Rule is that the leader has to clean it from a stance, not hanging on gear. If you have to hang, the second gets it.

What kind of dumb rule is that? :-) Forget about the second! If I can get my grubby hands on it, by hook or by crook, its ALL MINE.

Hey I didn't write that!


brutusofwyde


Jul 15, 2004, 2:11 PM
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One time, on a Sierra backcountry Grade V, we took only one nut tool to reduce pack weight (No stove, half bag bivy, only one helmet, etc...) At the top of the second pitch, I set some nice anchors. When Brennan reached the end of the rope, "Climb with me!"

I could have cleaned that #6 Rock with the nut tool, but we forgot to hand it off at the changeover. Even so, probably could have cleaned it if I'd had a few minutes to play with it.

I shed a sad tear as I waved goodbye to the piece and started climbing. For all I know, it may still be up there.

Brutus

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