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roughster
Jul 16, 2004, 4:13 AM
Post #1 of 7
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Registered: Apr 3, 2002
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With Dave up to his ears in Bar studying, and judging by the fact that it was almost 3AM and I was still at work.... Things were not looking good for climbing today. However, by the time I drug myself into bed and set my alarm clock for 05:30 AM, I was wondering if this was going to happend or not.
Bzzzzzz, "Consiga su extremo de asno perezoso de la cama..." or something in spanish at volume 10. Nothing will wake you up faster than someone/something yelling a foreign language in your ear at 05:30! I rolled out of bed, took a shower, drank all of the coffee the Mrs. had prepeared for herself on the coffee brewer. Just hit Brew to overide the timer :twisted: And then waited for Dave. 06:30 and we were rolling!
The plan today as discussed on the way was to take a stroll up Aloha Patrol. Pitch 1 (stand alone called Standard Issue 5.10d) is a slab to a steep headwall on big features. However it is also one of those climbs that if you get crossed up with the jugs, it an take on a very Anasazi Trail character, i.e.. you're screwed!
Pitch 2 is a cool 5.10b up a redish brown vertical to slightly overhanging wall on huecos, pockets, and cobbles. Pull the top, then a couple of bulgy ledge moves protect the anchors.
Pitch 3 is the business. Dave and I had been on it before, but it really needed a serious scrubbing. Fortunately for us, thats exactly what I did last weekend, and the line was sitting primped and primed for sendage. The pitch starts off up a short slab to vert section, then out a steep roof also on jugs, but it is quite the pumper! A small left traverse to the reach the anchors. Initially we were thinking it would be hard, but the feaures cleaned up nicely and now we were guessing mid 11.
Pitch 4 is an excellent way to end the climb. A vertical stretch with some fancy footwork and a delicates traverse on fin-like holds that are around in abundance that equals 10b. The only question is... which one is the jug, and which is faux-jug set to send you back down into defeat. Pitch 4s anchors are just under the lip of the cliff, and if your follower just climbs past you at the last anchors, they, then you can belly flop over the top and walk off.
Ahh, 4 pitches of sport climbing madness. Ready, set, GO!!!
Since pitches 1,2, and 4 had all been redpointed already, the plan was for me to run up Pitch 1 and 2 linking them together with a 60M in 1 monster 19 bolt affair, heheh. Of course I managed to bungle the jug sequence and become flash pumped heading up P1. Instead of clipping its anchors, I just kept going and had fun cranking up the redish black pockets and huecos, eventually arriving at the top of pitch 2, out of breath, and feeling more pumped than warmed up hehe :)
Dave quickly followed cleaning and as he got near the belay ledge, we decided that he was going to give the 3rd pitch a run 1st. Secretly I was happy with this choice since that way the draws would be hung for me, heheh :lol: Dave heads up the slab quickly reaches the vert section, and then hits the crux, a pumper series of bumps off a side pull then pulling under and onto the steeper terrain above. One of the sequences, left hand undercling, right hand pocket, cross through right hand to the left and backhand undercling while rolling out left to a large juggy, but steep flake. From here on up the feet get tricky and the jugs are good, but it is pumpy. Dave ends up botching a sequence, does a take, then finishes up to the top. Its now my turn and a try to remember what the holds were like and fire up. Man is this pitch INCREDIBLE! I loved the vert, the drive-bye moves are sweet and the steep juggy flake is amazing. The good news is now this climb is all done up and open for business! Dave gives it another RP attempt after I clip the chains and lower back down, but alas his rp will have to wait till next time! No worries though as I would gladly do this route everytime out, its that good! The 3rd pitch is rated 11b.
The final pitch is an awesome stretch and I RP it up since last time when Dave and I got on this thing he FA'd it and I just TR'd it to clean it. Fun moves that can give you pause for thought in some places for sure! I rig the belay and am treated to watching Dave come up the wall with 300 feet of exposure opening up below him. Man, I wish I would of took a camera today! He belly flops over the top, wedges himself in a "ditch" and gives me a belay as I clean the anchors and do the same.
Aloha Patrol 4 Pitches - 50M ok to rap - P1 (10d), P2 (10b), P3 (11b), P4 (10b). This thing is amazing and open for business!
Now at the top of the crag, Dave and I walk off and are soon down at the base. Its time for Dave to jump on his current project. 5.12a, steep juggy start, to a good rest and then intermitten moves between good rests to a final steep section right before the anchors. Dave has fallen several times at the crux and then proceeded to make it to the anchors for his obligatory one hang ascent. This will be Dave's 2nd 12a RP if he nails it, and with that in mind, up he goes. He looks good bumping around the jugginess, does some cool stemming action and even slams in a knee bar. However, hanging the draws is screwing up his beta and he takes a fall near the top of the lower crux. Rests up, hangs one more draw which is the last draw of the "hard section" and lowers down for some rest.
Well if you can consider "rest" belaying me on my project. I am up for a burn on Spankterfied. I bolted the route the other weekend and got it all cleaned up and ready to go. This is going to be the 1st real burns on it and I am ready to roll! Starts up a chossy ramp and immediately pulls onto a slightly overhung face absolutely loaded with pockets, huecos, and jugs. The moves are not all that hard, but hard enough, and they serve to pump you silly for 4 bolts until the crux. The crux is a high step bump the left hand to a funky semi undercling then a deadpoint to an undercling which for me is a stretch and ends with a power step up into and under a large bulge that you double undercling. From here a small traverse right and a good clipping jug leave your arms above the lip but your feet planted 90 degrees under the roof and just is pumping madness. I make it here hanging the draws, clip and then lunge for the final hold of the crux sequence and just don't have the go-go.
After the fall, I work out some new foot/hand beta and invent what I call "The Heisman Move" Pretty much you strike a pose similar to that of the footbal trophy and then lunge out the roof to the final hold. So good :) I cruise up hanging the rest of the draws and then lower down. For now, the ball is back in Dave's court.
Back over the crag a ways and Dave is gearing up for his 2nd RP go. Now what is eerily familar about today is that the day that Dave RP'd his 1st 12 (Confusion Tactics @ Auburn) he climbed like crap on easier routes that he normally walks. Well, today's shutdown on P3 was more to do with the lack of warm up and funk, but it set a similar stage. Bad early climbing, going for RPs on projects. Well, Dave hopes on, avoids the sharma-esque campus moves which cost him the RP last time, sticks his beta like a machine and hikes the crux. From here on up, he shakes at the rests, and wobbles towards the anchors with the "I'm going to send if I don't fall on the easy stuff" mentality. He gives me a scare at the anchors where he pulls up the rope to clip, boggles it, and drops the slack, then rips it up again and finally gets it through. Ding ding! Project send #1 has been achieved!
I am psyched for Dave, but I now realize that if I don't send up my project I'll be crying into my beer while Dave is living the good life. Can't have that now can we! :lol: Back over to Spankterfied.
I start the lower sequences and fire them in rhythm, hit the crux and feel great, make the roof clip and work into the Heisman..... For one second I hesitate, you don't got the juice bro is the nagging little voice in my head. WRONG I think to myself and lunge for the hold.... stick! From here up I just have to hike my feet up over the bulge and I should be $$. Its a lot harder since I know if I make it over, I have it. I am tentative, the gas tank is on "E", but manage to hang in there and stand up. Now its my turn to wobble up the easier moves, too afraid of blowing it over doing something stupid. 3 more bolts and I am staring at the anchors. I am going to call it yet another 12a ( it may be slightly harder we'll see what others think :lol: ) at here. This place is a 12a clinbers paradise at this point with currently 7 routes given 12a!!
Ahhh Double Project Send Day is achieved!
Sitting at the base, we both have perma-grins. Nothing better than sending up projects and in this case both of us on the same day on top of establishing probably the best multipitch sport route in NorCal :righton:
We talk about whether or not more climbing is in store, but it is eventually decided that we will retreat to Chevy's to drink some cervasa, eat some Tex Mex, and toast the accomplishments of the day. Ahh the good life!
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socalbolter
Jul 16, 2004, 4:25 AM
Post #2 of 7
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Registered: Mar 27, 2002
Posts: 796
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congratulations boys!
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roughster
Jul 16, 2004, 5:14 AM
Post #3 of 7
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Registered: Apr 3, 2002
Posts: 4003
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Thanks Louie. Every day out, that place is only getting better, and better, and better ..... :righton:
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slablizard
Jul 19, 2004, 8:06 PM
Post #4 of 7
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Registered: Oct 13, 2003
Posts: 5558
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Good Job Dude! You guys are doing a hell of a job down (or up?) there!
Keep the bolts coming!
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wormly81
Jul 19, 2004, 8:26 PM
Post #5 of 7
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Registered: May 9, 2004
Posts: 280
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Ahh... Thats a good day at the crags.
Enjoy it!
Jeff
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caughtinside
Jul 19, 2004, 8:39 PM
Post #6 of 7
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
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8^)
Sending is great.
An amusing side note, Rough would close his eyes on the drive home, jerk up 3 seconds later and say "holy cow dude, I just fell asleep and had a crazy dream!"
But I guess sleeping 2 hours will do that to you! Good think I drove. :lol:
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slablizard
Jul 19, 2004, 8:50 PM
Post #7 of 7
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Registered: Oct 13, 2003
Posts: 5558
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:shock: :shock: :shock:
Red Bull?
In reply to: 8^) Sending is great. An amusing side note, Rough would close his eyes on the drive home, jerk up 3 seconds later and say "holy cow dude, I just fell asleep and had a crazy dream!" But I guess sleeping 2 hours will do that to you! Good think I drove. :lol: |
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