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gambler
Jul 18, 2004, 6:59 AM
Post #1 of 3
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Registered: Aug 2, 2002
Posts: 85
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I am heading to the Needles soon and was wondering what the best way to plan for the S. face of the Warlock,Do we need two 50 meter ropes to rappel down the North side (The Howling ?) or would one 60 meter rope work?
The 1992 Moser-Vernon-Paul Guidebook says for the east face routes approach along the base of the east face(I assume this is also the best way to reach the south face?).My idea is to leave the packs and hiking shoes at the base of the north face(The Howling)and hike down along the east face in (semi-comfortable)climbing shoes to the south face route,is that very far?
Has anybody done both the South Face and the Imaginary Voyage?Which one did you like better?I thought that I would do the South Face 1st because its a Fred Beckey route and maybe some other day do the other one.
gambler
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thegreytradster
Jul 19, 2004, 11:30 PM
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Registered: Jul 7, 2003
Posts: 2151
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That one's always been on my list also.
It's been a long time (10 years maybe) Did the first pitch of Imaginary Voyage, (good but not stellar pitch) and walked off to the right on the ledge system as we had only one rope. One of the raps is marked as 140 ft and the other 120ft. All the others I've done in the Needles were spot on on the distance. So, unless someone has set up another rap station you need two ropes.
The next year we went back in the spring with two ropes. I can't remember if it was to do all of Imaginary Voyage or The Becky route. We were stooped by a pair of angry Perigrines and made a hasty retreat before even starting. There's nothing like a set of talons coming at your head at 100mph to get your attention. Late Summer or Fall would be ok or the nesting site may be now abandoned.
Check the tattered old guide hanging in The Ponderosa, (if still there) by the first booth. There's updated beta in it. Ask the lookout about nesting sites, she will know if any are active.
(edit to add)
If your first time to the area Igor Unchained should be on the short list for possibly best 5.9 in the state, White Punks, best .8 The Tree Route best .6 (Dome Rock) Haven't done Thin Ice yet but it has to be one of the most spectacular looking lines anywhere.
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gambler
Jul 29, 2004, 1:36 AM
Post #3 of 3
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Registered: Aug 2, 2002
Posts: 85
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We just got back from the Needles,had a great time on the S. Face of the Warlock...lots of nice wide stuff and a #4 Camalot was big enough if you dont mind running it out a little,we just left our packs at the base of the Howling and walked down the gully in our climbing shoes,which only took 10-15 min.
gambler
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