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The Best Hand-Crack at J-tree
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cgranite


Jul 19, 2004, 9:47 PM
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The Best Hand-Crack at J-tree  (North_America: United_States: California: Joshua_Tree_National_Park: _Joshua_Tree_National_Park_Overview_)
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What are the best handcracks J-tree has to offer?
Best=Continuisly clean rock with various handjaming.
IYO of course


curt


Jul 19, 2004, 10:08 PM
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Perpetual Motion

and

O'Kelley's Crack

Curt


matisse


Jul 19, 2004, 10:51 PM
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Heart of Darkness, if you have small hands. Beautiful route.
Room to shroom is pretty good too.


kalcario


Jul 19, 2004, 10:59 PM
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Perpetual Motion - like 5 & Dime in Yosemite but 1/3 as high
Morongo Man - a slightly easier version of Separate Reality
In The Pit - like 5 & Dime in Yos but 1/4 as high
Solosby - like a 1:8 scale model of your standard Yos crack pitch
Jumping Jack Crack - not really hands, offwidth to 2", but almost as good as 1/3 of your standard Yos single pitch

Best Yosemite hand cracks:

Hotline P2, Fatal Mistake P2, Leanie Meanie, Gripper, New Dimensions, Outer Limits, Catchy, Anathema, New Diversions, Reed's Direct, Lunatic Fringe, 5 & Dime, Stone Groove, Rostrum P2,3 and 7, Overdrive, Tower of Cosmic Gods P1, The Thief, Vanishing Point, Gold Dust, Sons of Yesterday, Sunnyside Bench Jamcrack, Astroman P6 (below Harding Slot), Sacherer Cracker, Moby Dick, about 1500' of the Nose, Speed of Life, Primate Crossing, about 50 others I can't remember right now...all better than anything in Josh


scotto


Jul 19, 2004, 11:12 PM
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palmreader wall
double cross


pbjosh


Jul 20, 2004, 12:32 AM
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O'Kelleys is tops for me, mostly hands, some fingers, a few feet of easy wide.


fixedpin


Jul 22, 2004, 5:20 PM
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Hot Rocks - not really like any Yosemite crack, and 2/3s as high.
Bighorn Dihedral - like a josh classic, but much better location.
Firewater Chimney - like the Iota in Yosemite, only longer, harder and better.
More Monkey Than Funky - not really like Separate Reality, not as long, but you can walk to it in 5 minutes and is a tad warmer in January.

Did anyone really ask how do JT cracks compare to classics in the Valley?

Central Pillar vs. Thin Ice (Central Pillar may longer, and a bit easier, but it is on inferior rock, lower angle, and you get to hear cars and shuttle buses droning just below).

Apples and Oranges

You got to love them all.


handcrack


Jul 22, 2004, 5:33 PM
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Check out joshuatreeclimb.com and look at The Big Five and The Little Five. I'm sure you'll find something you like there.
By the way, you have excellent taste in routes.


handcrack


Jul 22, 2004, 6:03 PM
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I apoligize for misleading you. The lists I mentioned above can only be seen by subscribers to the web site ($20ayeartheguyjusthadakidsohelphimout).

So anyway here's the lists:

The Little Five
Touch and Go 5.9
Pope's Crack 5.9
Hands Off 5.8
Sail Away 5.8
Ball Bearing (1st pitch) 5.10a

The Big Five
Coarse and Buggy 5.11a
Clean and Jerk 5.10c
O'Kelly's Crack 5.10c
Rubicon 5.10d
Perpetual Motion 5.10d

Some of these routes aren't continuous hand size, particularly Touch and Go and Rubicon, but they're all classics.


thegreytradster


Jul 23, 2004, 7:31 AM
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This site is free and a good reference
http://www.climbingjtree.com/

One that hasn't been mentioned that comes to mind
Comic Book 10a
Kinda a harder longer version of Mental Physics.

The problem with a list like this is that it's hard to walk more than 30 ft without having a hand crack of some sort within your field of vision.


watusi


Jul 23, 2004, 1:33 PM
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I agree with curt... Perpetual Motion or O'kelleys!! I looked at some of these lists and chuckled!!! Rubicon would be hands if you were an infant.


thegreytradster


Jul 23, 2004, 1:39 PM
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In reply to:
I agree with curt... Perpetual Motion or O'kelleys!! I looked at some of these lists and chuckled!!! Rubicon would be hands if you were an infant.

An infant with very long, strong fingernails :lol:


pmagistro


Jul 23, 2004, 1:56 PM
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Haven't climbed a lot at J'tree, but I really enjoyed Double Cross, 5.7...pretty moderate too if you don't climb really hard.


bandycoot


Jul 23, 2004, 2:17 PM
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Invisibility Lessons and Sail Away both have good hand cracks if memory serves and come in at an easier 5.9 and 5.8 respectively.

The opening moves on Rubicon are hand, but no one climbs that route for the opening moves....


tigerbythetail


Jul 23, 2004, 2:29 PM
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93


deafears


Jul 23, 2004, 2:39 PM
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For consistantly interesting jamming and clean rock (the qualities the original poster requested), the words "Illusion Dweller" are all you need to know. One of the best routes in Josh, and quite reasonable for a JT 5.10, with easy pro.


cgranite


Jul 23, 2004, 10:51 PM
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Thanks a lot for all the routes. Illusion Dweller looks awesome and I like the sound of easy pro. I will get on that first...sometime around
Thanksgiving, or is climbing tolerable sooner than that?
Keep them comming if you can.


tcantor333


Jul 24, 2004, 2:02 PM
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Episcopalian Toothpick is a good one, more of a finger crack though, but super fun and a pretty heady too.


maculated


Jul 24, 2004, 2:48 PM
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I still go back to Room to Shroom. Soft for its grade, but don't tell my ego that.


vstiefel


Jul 24, 2004, 3:01 PM
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"No Self Respect" and "No Self Confidence" are two of the best hand cracks in J-Tree. They are located on the south face of the Flying Fortress in the North Wonderland of Rocks. The north face of the Fortress also has some exceptionally fine finger / hand cracks as well. Specifically, "The Catapult" has a beautiful hand crack towards the top of the route. While in the vicinity check out "Hyperion" on the south face of the Grey Giant. Face, thin crack, and hand size crack climbing are all found on this Wonderland classic....oh, how I miss J-Tree.


areyoumydude


Jul 24, 2004, 3:03 PM
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Boortemus and Crime of the Century are two of my favs. :)


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