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yoni
Jun 30, 2004, 1:54 PM
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can anyone give me some advice on some good climbing gyms in NYC? I just moved to brooklyn and am looking for a climbing partner. i can do 5.9.
thanks, yoni
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treyfrancisclimbs
Jun 30, 2004, 2:40 PM
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i was in new york a few weeks ago and found that there are some boulders in central park that are worth checking out. there are actually quite a few problems, and some of the locals i talked to there said they get as hard as v9. there are also several pumpy traverses. the difficulty level goes up quite a bit right after a rainstorm though.
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yoni
Jun 30, 2004, 2:57 PM
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thanks. i tried that once and an officer threatened to fine me 50 bucks, saying that bouldering in the park in illegal. is there a spot i don't know about, or did you just not get caught?
y
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treyfrancisclimbs
Jun 30, 2004, 3:03 PM
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I believe I was climbing on rat rock. I will be posting some photos as soon as I get them back from being developed. Rat rock and cat rock are both on the southwest end of the park, down close to columbus circle, and they seem to be frequented regularly. There were two guys climbing when my wife and I arrived, and after two hours, they left and another dude showed up. I didn't see any police, and from what I gathered from the locals, there usually aren't any problems climbing there.
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taino
Jun 30, 2004, 3:11 PM
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In reply to: thanks. i tried that once and an officer threatened to fine me 50 bucks, saying that bouldering in the park in illegal. is there a spot i don't know about, or did you just not get caught? y
Bouldering in Central Park is not illegal. However, the wonderful police officers we have here in the City don't all know that, and will not hesitate to tell you to stop. If you're in one of the popular bouldering areas, they won't generally harass you. However, if you're working some problem on some other boulder they'll give you a hard time. It's easier to stop what you're doing and leave than to get slapped with a fine, even if you're right and they're wrong.
That said, climbing on any of the bridges or other stoneworks except boulders is strictly off-limits, as is any climbing on or around the small castle at the south end of the Great Lawn, on the south shore of Turtle Pond (Belvedere Castle).
T
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dontfall
Jul 1, 2004, 2:39 AM
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dontfall moved this thread from US - East Coast to Regional Discussions.
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jpearl
Jul 1, 2004, 3:28 AM
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Aside from corporate ladders and the backs of the people below you, the only climbing to be found in NYC is either bouldering in Central Park (already discussed in the posts above), and any of the numerous gyms dotting the city.
As for the gyms, however much you wanna spend depends where you'll climb. $12 gets you a day pass at the City Climbers Club 59th street gym. $50 gets you a day pass at the Chelsea Pairs. There used to be a website dedicated to NYC climbing, but the site, er, ran into some trouble. If you're in the city, ask around at some place like EMS (Eastern Mountain Sport). Those guys can give you some info.
Good luck, and remember, you can have some fun on the Central Park boulders, but best not to try to touch the ground below. This is, after all, New York City.
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ikefromla
Jul 1, 2004, 4:43 AM
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this is what i have to look forward to when i move to nyc for school in the fall? grrrreat.
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treyfrancisclimbs
Jul 1, 2004, 2:34 PM
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there are also some bouldering areas farther north, tryon park?, up in the ghetto, that were discussed in the ivan green? interview in a recent rock and ice or climbing magazine. one of the locals in new york told me that there is a climbing gym at the nyc recreation center that is way better than the city climbers club.
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thejew
Jul 17, 2004, 3:08 AM
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if you dont mind the commute to the NJ subburbs, one of the best gyms i have set foot in, is not to far from the City. if you get the chance to go to NJ Rock Gym, you will be amazed. it is a huge rock gym, with an amazing freestanding boulder, a bouldering cave (both contain routes from V0-V8). The Gym also has a lead climbing wall with insane overhangs, and many top roping routes (ranging from beginner level party walls, and 5.5's-5.10a?) the gym is an amazing enviroment with the sickest staff, all trained to survive on the mountains and in Dirty Jersey. i recently became a memeber, and go to the gym for a good 3 hours every day, leaving content and amazed by the facilities every time.
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billiebob
Jul 20, 2004, 2:19 PM
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I agree with the above poster, the New Jersey Rock Gym is one of the best gyms I have ever been to. The bouldering is superb, thanks to good architecture and a fantastic routesetter. It's also a good deal at 11 bucks a day if you buy a punch card. You only have to know someone with a car...
Last I checked, Chelsea Piers was 60 a day.
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taino
Jul 20, 2004, 2:55 PM
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In reply to: I agree with the above poster, the New Jersey Rock Gym is one of the best gyms I have ever been to. The bouldering is superb, thanks to good architecture and a fantastic routesetter. It's also a good deal at 11 bucks a day if you buy a punch card. You only have to know someone with a car... Last I checked, Chelsea Piers was 60 a day.
The NJ Rock Gym is indeed an excellent gym - for boulderers. For climbers, it's somewhat less than excellent. The climbing walls for vertical climbing are almost an afterthought, if you don't lead. Also, when I went there I was told that I was belaying "incorrectly" (AMGA-certified method, unsafe? I think not...); to pass the first-round belay test, I had to do it their way - which was unsafe. The staff weren't particularly pleasant, either.
The best "climber's gym" in the area is Go Vertical Stamford. They also have a large, free-standing boulder in the middle of the floor, but there are more vertical routes than at NJRG. Also, you can take Metro North to within a 15-minute walk of the gym. The $17 per day is a bit steep, but IMHO, it's better than going out to the NJRG.
T
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ben87
Jul 20, 2004, 3:53 PM
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In reply to: there are also some bouldering areas farther north, tryon park?, up in the ghetto, that were discussed in the ivan green? interview in a recent rock and ice or climbing magazine. one of the locals in new york told me that there is a climbing gym at the nyc recreation center that is way better than the city climbers club.
The city climbers club *is in* a NYC Rec center.... so that might be what they were talking about, I don't know.
it's located on 59th street at around 10th ave in a city run rec center (parks dept I think). Great gym -- small, feels like it's in someone's basement, the walls are not tall -- 20-25 feet?-- but the route setting is good, the vibe is friendly, and the price is cheap. ettiquitte is key, as it's tiny and crowded.
Yes --- climbing in the five boroughs sucks! there's a little bouldering and no good gyms unless you can get to the suburbs. The upside: GUNKS
1.5 hrs by car -- and there's a greyhound too.
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rock67
Aug 25, 2004, 3:10 PM
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i go to island rock it is not in the city but not far away they have some good walls, if you find any good spots tell me too, i live in Qns
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