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Homemade Adj. Daisies
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far_east_climber


Jul 21, 2004, 1:38 AM
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Homemade Adj. Daisies
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I had a look at the Fixe adjustable daisies yesterday;
http://www.fixeclimbing.com/...lable_434__small.jpg

and thought that they could be easily replicated by using 2 small quicklinks for the tightening system. The two quicklinks basically replicate the Fixe tightening system on their adjustable daisys. Each of the pieces are only rated to 2kn (which make a total of 4kn).

Any ideas?

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=36497


imnotclever


Jul 21, 2004, 5:48 AM
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Here is what you do. Go to Home Depot (or the Hong Kong equivalent) and by the set of 4 tie-downs that has the cam buckle (about $10, apparently $19 at ACE http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1297454

Now the trick is to get the metal hooks off of each end. This can be done. After taking your knife and scarping away the plastic around the hook's eye you'll notice that the eye is not welded to the rest of the hook. All you have to do is take the 1/2" diameter pipe from your pipe clamps and stick it in the eye hole and torque the eye open enough to allow the webbing to slip off. Volla, instant adjustable daisy.

It started for me on a whim, I had the traditional dasies and already had the tie-downs.


Partner slacklinejoe


Jul 21, 2004, 7:43 AM
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Same equivalent, cept I know this works damn well.
http://www.rockclibming.com/...iewtopic.php?t=65442


mrtristan


Jul 21, 2004, 7:55 AM
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One concern I would have with your design is that the screw gates of the quick links would keep the links a few mm. apart, this not allowing them to clamp down on the webbing all the way. The webbing might slip or something. Maybe you could use chain links?

-Tristan


Partner coylec


Jul 21, 2004, 1:40 PM
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Be careful. One of the safety features built into manufactured daisies is that they'll break under high loads. When you build your own, you don't have these tolerances built in.

Had a conversation with a guy from Metolius who told me that their adj. break so the climber's don't. There was an incident in Europe a few years back where a guy took a small static daisy fall and killed himself. Static falls suck.

The pieces are rated at 2kN each, but that doesn't mean they won't support more. You may want to add a shock absorber (screamer, et al) to minimize the risk of a static fall on a device that won't break.

coylec


megableem


Jul 21, 2004, 2:19 PM
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.


maculated


Jul 21, 2004, 3:31 PM
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Oh man . . . that was a witty one . . . so serious, yet so . . . funny.


edge


Jul 22, 2004, 5:49 AM
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In reply to:
One concern I would have with your design is that the screw gates of the quick links would keep the links a few mm. apart, this not allowing them to clamp down on the webbing all the way. The webbing might slip or something. Maybe you could use chain links?

-Tristan

That was my first thought as well, except I think rap rings would work quite nicely and weigh less.


imnotclever


Jul 22, 2004, 6:15 AM
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In reply to:
Had a conversation with a guy from Metolius who told me that their adj. break so the climber's don't. There was an incident in Europe a few years back where a guy took a small static daisy fall and killed himself. Static falls suck.

coylec

I understand what you are getting at, but it seems as if Metolius is the only one that does this. They make their adj. daisy to the same strength as the pockets on thier traditional daisy (300 lb). Yates lists 1500 lb for their adj. daisy and Fish doesn't say, but they look the same as Yates. BD has pocket strength on the trad. daisy of 674 lb and end to end of 4271 lb.

From what I understand, around 1800 lb is the force that breaks a person. So the Yates adj. daisy gets you really close and probabilly gets you there and an end to end fall on a trad. daisy will get you there.

My real question then gets posed to the traditional daisy users that have taken static daisy falls. Did you take end to end falls or were you clipped into pockets. If you were clipped into pockets do you cross clip the pocket intentionally so that when the pocket rips in a static fall you come free of the daisy and avoid the chance for a end to end daisy fall.


ricardol


Jul 22, 2004, 10:00 AM
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i've taken a static fall on a yates adj. daisy ..

i had stepped up onto the next piece, when it blew .. so the adj. was taken in somewhat, but was not tight since i was standing up already on the next piece ..

.. the stop was not gentle --

the piece that held my fall was a blue alien.

-- ricardo


pancaketom


Jul 22, 2004, 10:26 AM
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I made some adjustable daisies out of ancra buckles and non tubular webbing. I wasn't worried about them being too strong, especially after the webbing got scuffed a bit. They worked fairly well though. It is so much easier to stand up and reef in on the tail of the adjustable daisy at the same time. I got the buckles from a rafting-kayaking store.


Partner cracklover


Jul 22, 2004, 11:42 AM
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In reply to:
Same equivalent, cept I know this works damn well.
http://www.rockclibming.com/...iewtopic.php?t=65442

Very nice.

GO


Partner slacklinejoe


Jul 22, 2004, 11:52 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Same equivalent, cept I know this works damn well.
http://www.rockclibming.com/...iewtopic.php?t=65442

Very nice.

GO

BTW, we tested the heck out of that design I posted. It's a hard static fall on anything over a few feet but it held like a gem. It held hard falls without damaging the webbing at all, no slippage at all and we all loved the quick adjustability. Since you can always pull in tight, you can lean/hang against it for positioning.


mikeinidaho


Sep 11, 2004, 7:35 PM
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I made an excellent set using the WILD COUNTRY ROPE MAN MARK II as the cam. Used climbing rope tied to my harness. I wrote a CLIMBING magazine teh-tip about it.

They work well, super smooth and easy to adjust for getting into the second step.

They do take two hands to re-extend.

peace out there... M!


bigwalling


Sep 11, 2004, 8:45 PM
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Adjustables are lame (for leading), but I give you props on makeing your own gear and wanting to use it. Just don't pull a Pete and break a leg!

Mike when I read that first sentence I was thinking I had seen that in a mag.


benpullin


Sep 11, 2004, 10:06 PM
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In reply to:
Adjustables are lame (for leading)

Why are they lame? Because they're easier to use, safer (IMO), and more efficient? Just curious...


punk


Sep 12, 2004, 1:52 AM
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Adjustables are lame (for leading)

I like the Yates adjustable I have a pair that is over 2 years old with no problems ...you see I never used the them to hoist myself I stand up and then take the extra excess strap providing minimal ware on the buckle


joebuzz


Sep 12, 2004, 4:33 AM
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For what it's worth, I use a homemade rig that I love. A single "Ropeman" ascender on a length of 9 ml. static cord around 8' long. Tie weighted end to tie-in point on harness and a big knot to pull on in the other end. I still have two spectra daisys, at full length, going to each aider. Essentially, three dasiies in all. Should my adj. break, I've still got a couple of back-ups. I've fallen directly on it and it's held up fine, but I do still have my back-ups for when it decides to "go".
Hey, I only have a small handful of "easy" walls under my belt, but I've used this method for all of them; along with countless pratice pitches to try it out. If someone could point out what's wrong with this setup, it would be much appreciated.


punk


Sep 12, 2004, 8:12 AM
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In reply to:
If someone could point out what's wrong with this setup, it would be much appreciated.

Mostly it is the same problems as traditional daisies
Static falls Ė they both brake under those conditions

    [*:245269675c]Traditional
    Pros,
    Cheap, simple (no moving parts), easy to inspect, Rugged
    Cons,
    Slower, canít fine-tune to length, cumbersome, more effort needed
    [*:245269675c] Adjustable
    Pros,
    Fast, can get really close to the piece, fine tune, streamline
    Cons,
    Expansive, faster wear and tear (mostly due to a bad technique), harder to inspect the condition of the buckle, easily leading to developing bad technique in new comers (hoisting), more complex so naturally less rugged

I use them both and I like the adjustable better I also use the traditional with adjustable fifi I will use the later before going full traditional


bigwalling


Sep 12, 2004, 1:15 PM
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I like the Yates adjustable I have a pair that is over 2 years old with no problems ...you see I never used the them to hoist myself I stand up and then take the extra excess strap providing minimal ware on the buckle

This is the best way to use them. That said most people don't do it this way. I'd still call it a waste to take in the excess most of the time though. Adjustables aren't as good(where out faster) in daisy testing and I like to have options about testing. Whatever works for ya though.

If you want to get close to the piece, just use a biner clipped to your harness tie in area.

Do any of you people use adjustable aiders? I think those are a total joke for leading.

In reply to:
Cons,
Slower, canít fine-tune to length, cumbersome, more effort needed
I don't think it's this way for alot of people. The best speed aiders I know use traditionals. Except Brian, uses adjustables but only one aider.

Oh well who cares, just send and try to have fun!


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