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soccer_fan
Jul 15, 2004, 5:22 AM
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Registered: Jun 17, 2003
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I just back from 2 weeks in CO (alpine snow/ice in RMNP and a few days in Eldo) and my buddy and I got shut down on the West Butress on the Bastille in Eldo by the offwidth section on the second pitch (had to leave a biner...) and I was wondering where I can find offwidth routes in AR or OK (I live in Fayetteville) so as not to get shut down like that again. I know there are a few such routes at Horseshoe Canyon, but other than those I dunno where to look...
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soccer_fan
Jul 16, 2004, 5:38 AM
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Nobody has any recommendations?
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stickels
Jul 20, 2004, 9:50 PM
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there are a couple of areas in the wichitas. Mostly on crabeyes. "Power series" and "the claw" are both pretty wide and fairly stout/sustained. You can easily get up on top to top rope them from the left side of the formation (fairly obvious scramble up). And as always you can go pull on "Desperate Reality", but be warned, it is steep, really steep. At least the crack is deep. It's not really a true off width but it is way hard and cool looking. Most of the big crack in the wichitas are steep and clean save for the gravely bit around the crack. There is also a descent roof crack on upper mount scott. It makes up for it's fairly standard size by usually being wet and or mossy/slick, but it protects well enough. Oh, and the big momma is "Rhino Birth", you'll have to ask Okieterry about that one, I know it is big though. Near the top of echo dome and goes at 5.9 if I remember correctly, but don't take my word for it.
As far as Arkansas goes...........well................I'm not from ark but from what I have seen most of the big cracks are usually full of plants and dirt (cause' no one get on'um'). There is "Arkansas Reality", but from what I remember it is more of a big hand/fist crack. Also, there is a fairly large crack near "Batso's Revenge" at red rock point. I looked at it and per usually arkansas standards, was wet and dark (in a cave looking thing). Plus the is a big one out in the valley of the blind. Have no clue on the name or grade. Can't miss it though, it's big. And there are a hand full of biguns' out at horse shoe canyon. Look for the black coners around the north forty area.
BTW........... most everything mentioned above is WAY WAY harder than the second pitch of ol'crowded in eldo, no lines for you :twisted: if you can do these you'll do the sencd picth very easily.
Get out your hightops, and tape your long sleeve shirt to your wrists and have at it :wink:
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rhu
Jul 25, 2004, 9:59 PM
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Registered: Apr 15, 2003
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I would add "Buns Up" at the top of "Water Streak." It is at the Elk Slabs in the Wichita Mountain Wildlife Refuge near Lawton. It is short and not worth a trip in and of itself but if you are there then give it a shot. I don't know about the ones that stickels mentioned but "Buns Up" was way out of my league at 5.8.
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jer
Jul 25, 2004, 10:54 PM
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Registered: Sep 26, 2000
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In arkansas, start with "Diet Pepsi" 5.9 at Sams. Bring a couple 4's, and a 4.5. Then, another one that is good at Sams is "Run before you Walk". This one isn't exactly offfwidth, but it's awkward, adventurous, long, and fun. After that, head over to Deliverence to a .10, 70' right of painted warrior whose name I can't think of right now. If that felt easy, try "The Big Easy" at Clear Creek, across the road. It goes at 11RX, but don't let that scare you. If possible, rap down Flying Elvis and clip a few draws for a pseudo toprope . This route would be great for honing technique. There is also "I Fought Pirhanas" at horshoe canyon(11), and I believe Tatooed or Bearded Lady(the one on the right) at north forty has a grovelly wider section(11) that would probably be best top-roped if you had troubles on west buttress. If I think of any more, I'll drop a note. Good luck. My advice? When in doubt, DON'T run it out.
jer
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soccer_fan
Jul 26, 2004, 1:02 AM
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Registered: Jun 17, 2003
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Thanks for the info - anybody got guide to Sam's they wouldn't mind parting with?
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bsignorelli
Jul 26, 2004, 2:24 AM
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Registered: Feb 1, 2003
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In reply to: Thanks for the info - anybody got guide to Sam's they wouldn't mind parting with?
haha Yeah right :)
Good news though...Clay Frisbie is supposed to be coming out with a new Arkansas climbing guide this fall.
Bryan
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talons05
Aug 11, 2004, 3:54 AM
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Registered: Aug 23, 2001
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Yo, soccer,
I have a copy that I can share some route info from, if you need.
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