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awsclimber


May 7, 2002, 8:52 AM
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I remember somebody awhile ago brought up the topic of how cams grip on wet rock. I was wondering if anybody had any information or stats on their holding power. Climb Safe
Adam


radistrad


May 7, 2002, 9:20 AM
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I have not tech. info on holding power of cams in wet rock. I do know that they slip easier and are more prone to slipping out.

My partner was leading the first pitch of Serenity Crack, he climbed past the bolt (which he cliped) and placed a cam about 10' higher in wet rock. He then told the belayer to take so he could rest (I was watching), he leaned back on his cam and a split second later he was sailing down the rock, he ripped the belayer from the ground and they both ended up about 3' off of the deck.
A close call, this would not have happended if the route was dry or if he placed the cam 2' higher where the rock was dry.

Cams do not hold as well in wet rock...


beyond_gravity


May 8, 2002, 7:42 PM
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thats why REAL MEN dont use cams. real men indeed do not use protection at all


dustinap
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May 9, 2002, 10:03 PM
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Peter Croft is truely a real man then.


little_tim


May 9, 2002, 10:25 PM
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I saw Peter Croft at the Owens River Gorge a few weeks ago. Just free soloing stuff....no biggie. Very solid climber.


graniteboy


May 10, 2002, 6:53 PM
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Back to the subject;
Cams in wet rock are highly variable in their holding ability. Cams in iced cracks are never to be trusted.
Sort of makes you think about your safety when alpine climbing with cams, huh?
Pass the hexes and stoppers and pins, please. ...


crux_clipper


May 11, 2002, 4:24 AM
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Thinking back to Verticle Limit, if it's so about cams in wet or iced cracks, why were they carrying them up on the rescue with them?

Just an observation, and i do know the movie is full of shit.


stevematthys


May 12, 2002, 10:46 AM
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because it makes them look cooler...duh.

that is why hollywood sucks, they should let chris sharma, tommy cadwell, and peter croft make a movie, that would be worth seeing.


daisuke


May 12, 2002, 11:38 AM
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but they probably can't act worth anything... altho neither can bill paxton who is in that movie... I guess it's a lost cause


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