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texscala
Jul 27, 2004, 7:39 PM
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I am just curious how many of the local people that us this site actually climb in Rock Canyon. I am always up there and want to know who else is.
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sarcat
Jul 27, 2004, 8:14 PM
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I do once or twice a week.
I heard someone pounding a piton the other day. Was that you?
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texscala
Jul 27, 2004, 9:37 PM
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Nope,
I would only pound out a piton on a route that I had established and then only if I thought it was unnesescary.
I am much more likely to put in a piton than take one out
Where do you normally climb at
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fardawg
Jul 27, 2004, 9:43 PM
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I did when I lived in Payson. I kindof miss the place :(
Living in Ogden puts too many climbs between me and Rock Canyon
Living SoCal for the summer puts even more :D
Did something happen to Red slab?
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sarcat
Jul 27, 2004, 9:47 PM
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It was a "pounding in" noise. Down by the kitchen. When we walked past there were 12-13 military ROTC type guys. I didn't see any hammers however.
In reply to: Did something happen to Red slab?
Are you kidding?
http://www.rockcanyonalliance.org/
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mrtristan
Aug 3, 2004, 12:19 AM
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just arrived in provo for school and will be up in rock canyon a few times a week. good stuff!
tristan
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musicman
Aug 3, 2004, 1:08 AM
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i climb up rock canyon at least once a week, depending on how much me and my buddies go up A.F. i live in Lindon, about 10 minutes drive from both canyons. perfect location. i was up there a few days ago with mrtristan in fact. well, i'm 16, but if you ever see me up there say hi! maybe we'll hit some climbs up or something, drop me a pm if you want.
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texscala
Aug 3, 2004, 4:09 PM
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I climbed last week with churk and we did 3 .10s up at bug barn. I hope to see the rest of you in the canyon sometime.
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musicman
Aug 3, 2004, 5:04 PM
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what day were you on bug barn? me and my friend sawyer and mrtristan were up there on wednesday and we just climbed the 10a, good wall though! hopefully he gets some pics up soon.
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texscala
Aug 4, 2004, 2:49 PM
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We were up there on tuesday and did the 10.a, 10.b, and a 10.c
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sarcat
Aug 4, 2004, 3:11 PM
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Bug Barn is a good wall. Do you ever go to Ed & Terry?
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treyfrancisclimbs
Aug 4, 2004, 4:18 PM
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i am bored out of my mind on business in canada, and i stumbled on this thread. i climb in rock canyon as often as possible, but unfortunately haven't been up there in several months due to too much travelling for work. i also have the problem that my wife is tiny and i am 6'4" pushing 220, so she doesn' t feel safe learning how to belay me on lead just yet. i wouldn't mind going up there with someone on weekends and doing a little climbing. by the way, what has been going on with the quarrying thing? did they end up killing the pink canoe and fat hippos? that 10a right there was my first 10a lead, i hope it is still there
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texscala
Aug 4, 2004, 7:28 PM
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The area around pink canoe was affected but those 2 climbs were not affected. Rock is not currently being taken from the canyon.
When you want to go climbing send me a message. I go a lot and am trying to find people to climb witht that are at or near my skill level. I have lead 10.d this year and am ready to lead an 11.a
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mrtristan
Aug 5, 2004, 3:32 PM
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was back up in rock canyon yesterday with matt (musicman). did some routes at tinker toys, chicago overhang, and bug barn. fun stuff!
i've been up to ed and terry once. it was on the bolted .10a (?) to the left of the main crack there. it was a couple years ago, though. i need to go back. i have a friend coming up in a few days to do some climbing with for a couple weeks, and after he leaves i'd love to meet up with some of you guys for some climbing.
currently onsighting (havent gotten around to much redpointing) easy to mid-.10s (sport) and trad 5.7. i'm taking easy classes this semester so i should have a good amount of free time.
-tristan
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musicman
Aug 5, 2004, 8:27 PM
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In reply to: by the way, what has been going on with the quarrying thing? did they end up the 10a. and fat hippos? that 10a right there was my first 10a lead, i hope it is still there
yeah, its still there, great route, my first 10a lead also! super fun one, hopefully someday i'll be able to lead fat hippos, but no intentions for a few years!
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treyfrancisclimbs
Aug 6, 2004, 3:45 PM
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hey texcala, i think i will be going up to the bug barn on saturday morning. i was leading mid 10s, but haven't been climbing much lately, so i am a bit rusty. let me know if you are going to be around on saturday
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texscala
Aug 9, 2004, 9:48 PM
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I am going to try and climb on Thursday and have Friday off. So if any one wants to climb let me know.
I might have a date on thurs but early Fri would be great!!!
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texscala
Aug 23, 2004, 1:19 PM
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Well I finally lead an 11. I watched last week as I belayed chukarclimber (Dave) hit his first 11. I fell a good 5 times just fallowing. This week It was my turn as I lead Desperado and then finished up by leading the 10.a on the Ed and Terry wall. I would love to hear how and where everyone else is climbing up in the canyon.
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mrtristan
Aug 23, 2004, 11:19 PM
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I've been up several times in the last couple weeks. Was up there today doing some exploring. Good times.
Mainly I've been doing pretty tame stuff. In the last couple weeks I've climbed on Red Slab (the 5.6 route), Ed and Terry (Main Crack, the far right bolted 5.7, and some 5.8 trad route that I devised near the slot thing), Green Monster (the 2 pitch 5.9), the north face of Bolt Slab (the 5.7 chimney and the 5.8 to the right of it), that trad route with anchors that is to the left of the .10a and .12a at Black Rose (any idea what this route is or what its rated? I really liked it), the 5.7 crack and one of the bolted 5.9s at Tinker Toys, the 5.8 (that I had to pull on the draw on to keep from dislocating my shoulder... seemed a lot harder than 5.8 to me) and 5.10b (onsight) at the Zoo, The Hidden (5.10something onsight) and the 5.8 and 5.9 at the Hidden Wall, the .10a, .10b (onsights), and Cambrian Grey (5.10c, got caught on the wrong sides of the bolts several times) at Bug Barn and the 5.7 first pitch of Cool World (which is probably one of my favorite Rock Canyon climbs). Oh, and the 5.4 west face of the Chicago Overhang.
Yeah, I have lots of time on my hands and climbing seems to be the best way to wait for school to start... :D Just got back from some LCC bouldering and Uinta climbing too. Woooo! Gotta love life.
And, is Desperado the bolted route to the right of the 5.6 Red Slab route? Looks fun. And I was up at the Apendage today. Whats with all the chopped bolts? There seem to be tons of these in the canyon.
Anyway yeah, Rock Canyon is a great place!
-Tristan
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texscala
Aug 24, 2004, 1:02 PM
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The easiest 5.10 climbs on the hidden are Cs. Desperado is the climb to the right of the red slab. It is hard if you stay on route. I agree that the beggining traverse of cool world is awsome. Make sure to do this one as the sun is setting. Great date route.
Maybe I will see you up in the canyon some time. I might be there on thursday with churckaclimber.
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dlh
Aug 25, 2004, 2:58 AM
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treyfrancisclimbs-
Interesting stuff in your profile about Oak Creek Canyon. I didn't know there was anything bolted there.
I did some trad out there on there last Saturday (actually, I just folllowed and cleaned) on the cliffs above the campground.
Went to Rock Canyon early Sunday AM. My fourteen year old and I top roped that route to the left of where the quarryers took out the rock - the route that doesn't have lead bolts, only anchors. What is that route called? Isn't it supposed to be 5.10? It felt harder than that.
My son did his first lead climb earlier in the week at Maple Canyon. I think he found it to be pretty exciting.
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texscala
Aug 27, 2004, 12:49 PM
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It sounds like you are asking about "Black Rose" if you stay off the edge this is a 10b. I have found that a lot of satings in this canyon are kind of off. The move on impossible dream is rated 5.10d and should be more like 11b it is insane. I lead Desperado .11a without a fall last week and was compleatly destroyed by the .11a on the hidden wall after leading Metal the .10c/d.
Ratings really do not matter though I guess.
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esallen
Aug 30, 2004, 4:26 AM
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Registered: Jul 11, 2004
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I’ve kind of gotten a little board with sport routes lately, but if anyone wants to do a little trad, sent me a PM and we’ll hit E&T or go up to Little Cottonwood or something. Don’t get me wrong, I still enjoy topping out on a good sport lead in RC or AF, but it just isn’t the adventure I find in swinging pitches of clean fun traditional climbing. :)
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texscala
Aug 30, 2004, 4:25 PM
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I am down for some trad but my rack has really gotten pretty small. I have 4 cams, a half set of nuts, 4 2ft runners, 3 4ft runners and a couple of 1ftrs.
I have been trying to get back to trad but have found I have lost the touch.
I have traded the 10.d on the red slab (I spent 2 days top ropeing it), but I get spooked on 5.8s I have not climbed before. Crack clibing never has been my specialty but I would love to get back to it.
So let me know. I am game.
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esallen
Aug 31, 2004, 12:47 AM
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Cool man, lets go saturday if you are able. I'll send you an email. We could go up to LLC or hit Ed&Terry or something else in RC. I've got plenty of gear.
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