|
lambone
Jul 28, 2004, 9:38 PM
Post #26 of 50
(5186 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 1, 2003
Posts: 1399
|
In reply to: To be honest, I almost never clean my hands on a wall.
really...thats gross. didn't your mom ever teach you about the diseases you can get from your own crap? You should really consider wiping your hands down afterward...especialy before you eat.
Ricardo, I use the towellets too, I also use that hand sanitizer stuff to kill the germs in cuts, and use moisturizer afterward. Seems to work for me. Most grocery stores have ittle sample size bottels that work perfect.
But is sounds like you just need to be more carefull with your hands.
|
|
|
|
|
epic_ed
Jul 28, 2004, 9:53 PM
Post #27 of 50
(5186 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 4724
|
Kate gave me the finger tip taping tidbit for Zodiac, and although I didn't climb more than a couple of days consecutively, I found it really did mitigate the swollen, cracking affect of aluminum oxide.
Aluminum oxide is also the reason for using the moist towelettes. If you don't clean that crap off daily, it seeps into any opening on your hands and causes the inflamation and bleeding. I found a combination of the tape and towellets kept my fingers feeling better than they ever have after aiding.
As for the training question, itself -- I wasn't nearly in good enough cardio shape this year. I spent a lot of time weight lifting and too little time building my cardio and anaerobic endurance. My fitness regemine will change entirely for next year. Less bulk, less focused on specific weight training. More focus on core exercises, leg endurance, and overall ability to perform at high output levels for extended periods of time. I'm looking into a training course that my gym just started offering called "Body Pump." Yeah, sounds kinda gay, but seems to be a good program for building your ability to perform at a high level for an extended period of time. It's very endurance focused. I'll give it a whirl and report back after a few sessions.
Ed
|
|
|
|
|
megableem
Jul 28, 2004, 10:16 PM
Post #28 of 50
(5186 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 13, 2004
Posts: 160
|
.
|
|
|
|
|
iamthewallress
Jul 28, 2004, 10:19 PM
Post #29 of 50
(5186 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 2, 2003
Posts: 2463
|
In reply to: [Have you ever seen the movie "El Capitan"? There's a great scene where they're all eating some canned fish, digging it out with pitons instead of spoons, and then licking the oily juice off off their filthy blackened fingers. It's wonderful!
Canned fish, YUCK!
When I've had the same skivvies on for like 6 days I feel like a hypocrite worrying about what's under my nails.
|
|
|
|
|
holdplease2
Jul 28, 2004, 10:44 PM
Post #30 of 50
(5186 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 18, 2002
Posts: 1733
|
Hey Megableem,
So you aren't afraid of your own e.coli...
OK, I have to share.
I climb with a 3 aider system. When I am not using the third aider I bundle it up and clip it to the haul loop on the back of my harness.
One lovely time, getting ready to climb in Zion, I was *ahem* using one of those little silver "business" bags. Well, when I was done...the bag was still empty.
The second and third step of my "floating" aider was not.
Because I was going to be climbing for several and I didn't want to risk e.coli infection I delayed the climb for a day to take care of the aider situation.
I am afraid of my own e.coli.
And now I don't have to be afraid that any of you will steal my gear. ;)
-Kate.
|
|
|
|
|
iamthewallress
Jul 28, 2004, 10:47 PM
Post #31 of 50
(5186 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 2, 2003
Posts: 2463
|
In reply to: I am afraid of my own e.coli.
But you drank of my water bottle (even with that nasty cold sore I had) like one brave soldier.
|
|
|
|
|
megableem
Jul 28, 2004, 10:51 PM
Post #32 of 50
(5186 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 13, 2004
Posts: 160
|
.
|
|
|
|
|
crossfit2
Jul 28, 2004, 11:11 PM
Post #33 of 50
(5186 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 12, 2004
Posts: 61
|
ok it was inevitable that this post would somehow stray into the scatological (doesn't everything eventually?) so why not go with the flow (pun intended). As far as levels of filth go I think it is quite safe to have your own pee contamination versus some other nasty microbes floating around out there.
But I feel empathy for Kate. Years ago I accidentally shat myself in a pair of Patagonia Nitro pants with the synthetic mesh (supposed moisture wicking) lining. It was November in the Tetons and cold as hell so tried to clean the mess with what little tp we had but said mesh just kind of waffled everything. We tried dumping hot tea on the mesh which worked to some degree. I gave up trying to scrub so I ended up leaving the back part of my pants open in hopes that it would freeze and I could chip off once hard (old Stubai tools are good for this). I got some off this way but finally was getting cold and said screw it and just got in the tent to try and sleep. Not a half hour later our tent smelled like a backed up toilet at Dulles airport . We decided the next morning that I was too unsanitary to continue and skied back out Death Canyon. To this day the guys that I was with call me Pepe as in Le Peu. oK I think I shared too much
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
holdplease2
Jul 28, 2004, 11:32 PM
Post #35 of 50
(5186 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 18, 2002
Posts: 1733
|
Thats me, brave soldier, yup. Coulda been worse.
Nice, crossfit2, sh*t-tea slurry. Fantastic.
-Kate.
|
|
|
|
|
ricardol
Jul 29, 2004, 12:13 AM
Post #36 of 50
(5186 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 11, 2002
Posts: 1050
|
kate:
thanks for the tip -- i'll give that a shot ..
i've got a body fluid story to share also: .. one morning at 4 am .. i just had to pee, but it was the 6th day on the wall, and i was too lazy to get up, put my glasses on, turn on the headlamd, stand up on the portaledge, and pee ... so i figured i could just lean over the side and pee .. i missed by a mile.. and ended up peeing on my ledge .. that woke me up pretty fast.
.. damm little wet wipes dont really help that much to clean it up.
-- ricardo
|
|
|
|
|
bigwalling
Jul 29, 2004, 2:03 AM
Post #37 of 50
(5186 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 29, 2001
Posts: 728
|
that's what the hole next to the support straps is for.
|
|
|
|
|
iamthewallress
Jul 29, 2004, 2:06 AM
Post #38 of 50
(5186 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 2, 2003
Posts: 2463
|
In reply to: that's what the hole next to the support straps is for.
No fair!
|
|
|
|
|
climbingcowboy
Jul 29, 2004, 3:06 AM
Post #39 of 50
(5186 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2002
Posts: 1201
|
The thing that kills me the most is hiking with a pig on I'm wuss when it comes to that, this last time I worked out with a gradualy heavier pig on my back doing laps up and down the stairs, that helped alot. Also i found since I hadn't been trad climbing in so long, do to only practising aid I felt akward steping out of my aiders and into free climbing mode.
|
|
|
|
|
glockaroo
Jul 29, 2004, 3:04 PM
Post #40 of 50
(5186 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 28, 2001
Posts: 149
|
In reply to: ...and my fingers a little swollen...
My fingers & hands swell like mad on the wall. Ibuprofen in the AM and after dinner seems to prevent the swelling. However Ibuprofen is said to be hard on your kidneys and thus wouldn't be good if you were short on water. I suspect the latest COX2 inhibitor drugs would be better, but those are both prescription-only & expensive.
|
|
|
|
|
joshklingbeil
Jul 29, 2004, 5:50 PM
Post #41 of 50
(5186 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 6, 2002
Posts: 403
|
Try hanging out in your harness for a week. Try to take a crapp while hanging in your aiders. I't might be helpful for shaving off a few mins.
|
|
|
|
|
dangle
Aug 5, 2004, 7:04 PM
Post #43 of 50
(5186 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 2, 2004
Posts: 814
|
One trick I use is to have dedicated tie-in and stirrup slings on my ascenders, one a bit longer than the other. This of course is the upper ascender. Since I'm right handed thats what I tend to use on lead giving my right arm a heavier workout, so jugging I use the left hand ascender in the higher position to balance things out a bit.
On the FA of Prodigal Sun I used no tape or gloves and topped out after 5 days with NO gobies and only mild swelling. This is of course the exception rather than the rule and my only guess is that with super comfortable weather, no partner rushing me, lots of provisions I was able to really relax and take enough time to avoid wild blows, and anticipate and avoid other mild traumas.
I think the best way to get in shape for long routes is to do short routes. I used to do laps on the Practice Roof in Boulder Canyon and it allowed me to develop more efficient technique as well. Sometimes I even did it barefoot since the pain gave me incentive to keep moving.
Another trick is to be aware of when and where the "comfort zones" are. If it's hot and you have ropes to jug when are the ropes in the shade? Time of day can be almost as important as time of year in dry climates. If it is wintery look for a south facing route. I can't understand people doing Prodigal Sun in January (when it is more like No Sun At All) or Touchstone in summer. Your endurance and energy level are adversely affected by an oppressive environment.
|
|
|
|
|
lambone
Aug 6, 2004, 5:52 AM
Post #44 of 50
(5186 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 1, 2003
Posts: 1399
|
Are you saying you did the FA of Prodigal Sun? Cool...that musta been fun.
|
|
|
|
|
lambone
Aug 6, 2004, 4:01 PM
Post #46 of 50
(5186 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 1, 2003
Posts: 1399
|
f&ck all that noise....if he put up those routes in Zion then he's cool by me...cheers bro!
we are all chippers, most are just too self rightous to admit it.
|
|
|
|
|
lambone
Aug 6, 2004, 4:02 PM
Post #47 of 50
(5186 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 1, 2003
Posts: 1399
|
f&ck all that noise....if he put up those routes in Zion then he's cool by me...cheers bro!
we are all chippers, most are just too self rightous to admit it.
|
|
|
|
|
imnotclever
Aug 6, 2004, 5:11 PM
Post #48 of 50
(5186 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 8, 2003
Posts: 10000
|
I wasn't making any comments about the thread, and I didn't even read the article in R & I. I don’t have any opinions on the guy and don’t care enough yet to make some, but this is where he outed himself.
I did think the part about the guy unknowingly talking ill about him behind his back while doing it to his face was rather good.
|
|
|
|
|
dangle
Aug 7, 2004, 3:37 PM
Post #49 of 50
(4883 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 2, 2004
Posts: 814
|
Outed myself huh? Well that's one way to look at it. I thought using a contraction of Drilled Angle was a dead giveaway from the getgo, but apparently it wasn't.
I'm proud of virtually all of my climbs and don't need to hide behind an nom de plume and piss into another's boots to make me feel OK about myself.
There are those that talk and those that do.
I'm going climbing while the schoolgirls can chatter.
|
|
|
|
|
dangle
Aug 7, 2004, 6:10 PM
Post #50 of 50
(4881 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 2, 2004
Posts: 814
|
Outed myself huh? Well that's one way to look at it. I thought using a contraction of Drilled Angle was a dead giveaway from the getgo, but apparently it wasn't.
I'm proud of virtually all of my climbs and don't need to hide behind an nom de plume and piss into another's boots to make me feel OK about myself.
There are those that talk and those that do.
I'm going climbing while the schoolgirls can chatter.
|
|
|
|
|
|
