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what to bring- multipitch trad anchors
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socialist1


Jul 29, 2004, 6:15 PM
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what to bring- multipitch trad anchors
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I like to use a 7mm cordellette to setup and equalize my anchors. But Im a little confused on what people typically do for multipitch climbs...

Since you used a cordellette for your first anchor, do most people bring another along to setup the second anchor? Or do most use the rope (more complicated)? Or do you use slings in an X (not too safe)?

Im wondering if I need to pick up another cordellette or if I am just missing something obvious.

Any advice is appreciated. Thanks


salparadise


Jul 29, 2004, 6:24 PM
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Re: what to bring- multipitch trad anchors [In reply to]
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yeah, buy yourself a second cordolette, then you can leap frog them and always have one when you need them. Using the rope to tie in can be fine as long as you are swapping leads and you don't think that you will have to bail. Even so, it's nice to have two cordolettes so that you have the option of using it to rig your 2nd anchor.


socialist1


Jul 29, 2004, 6:28 PM
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Cool, Thanks! :D


temporary-wintertime
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Jul 29, 2004, 6:30 PM
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should have one each + some spare slings for emergencies


imnotbob


Jul 29, 2004, 6:54 PM
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If we are swapping leads, we each carry a cordalette - I keep mine set with the biners I need too. If I'm leading each pitch, I still make my partner carry one (just don't forget to get it before you start the next pitch!)


tahoe_rock_master


Jul 29, 2004, 7:36 PM
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I just use the rope. I don't think it is that complicated.

Matt


topher


Jul 29, 2004, 8:07 PM
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for making gear anchores and in multipiching i prefer to use a webolet!! there much faster and cleaner... im a big fan of them over cordelets... but ye to is always good.. that or some slings...


ricardol


Jul 29, 2004, 11:48 PM
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i bring 2 5mm cordalettes (titan cord) .. i also carry 2 double length slings..

.. i think that covers 95% of all the anchors you'll run into .. for the other 5% .. you'l need to use your creativity and other gear that you may still have on you at the end of the pitch.

i saw that you mentioned the sliding X in the same sentence as "not very safe" .. umm .. thats a fine statement to make to beginners .. but the sliding X does have a place in a climbers toolbox .. there are some cases where its a fine anchor.

given 2 bomber bolts .. (changes of either of them blowing is nil)
given smooth rock .. (no chance of the sling rubbing on rock and cutting)
given a double length sling that is in good shape ..

.. i'd trust 1 double length sling with a sliding X on 2 bolts as a multipitch trad anchor.. given the above criteria ..

.. one good example of where this criteria is met .. Superslab on the royal arches area of Yosemite valley .. there are 3 belays on there with 2 bomber bolts ..

.. of course if the sliding X bothers you .. just tye an overhand or figure eitght in the middle of it, and you wont have any extension problems.

-- ricardo


Partner coylec


Jul 30, 2004, 12:09 AM
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It all depends on what approach you want to take ...

If you want to go light, use the rope. That way you don't even need the cordalette.

If you want to go a little heavier, use a web-o-lette. topher was right in that they are lighter than cordalettes, however, I personally don't use them and prefer a cordalette.

For multipitch stuff, i like two cordalettes, each with 3 small lockers for each placement and a huge powerpoint locker. Some will say that is locker overkill, I say I don't mind the weight and really like the peace of mind. If you are switching leads, when the second cleans the anchor while cleaning the pitch, s/he will than have a cordalette and the lockers. Then when s/he gets to the the anchor and leads off, they are already set.

coylec


corpse


Aug 1, 2004, 8:21 PM
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In reply to:
for making gear anchores and in multipiching i prefer to use a webolet!! there much faster and cleaner... im a big fan of them over cordelets... but ye to is always good.. that or some slings...

I agree - I love my 18' webolette - can make anchors (belay or even TR) so clean and nice. For the belay anchor, I try to make sure I have a couple single length and a double length sling.


lightandfast


Aug 1, 2004, 10:25 PM
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In reply to:
should have one each + some spare slings for emergencies
If he is asking a question like this to begin with, your emergency idea will be over his head. Ignore


qwert


Aug 2, 2004, 4:12 AM
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I would say it totally depends on the type of climbing you are doing.
If done properly, nothing beats a cordalette in terms of safety(redundancy, holding power, emergency uses ...), but this requires a lot of skills, and time.
And here comes the nasty part. If you are doing routes where speed is safety, you simply cant afford the time it takes you to set a cordalette (of course this is a generalization, some people are really fast, but in 90% a cordalette takes longer than other options. Its not only the time you need to set it, but also the time for removing it).
I prefere stuff like a sliding x, maybe tied short, or to clip protection in a row, via girth hitches.
There are of course many more possibilties, and not every single one is safe in every single case. just know every option, and decide on the situation.

qwert


keinangst


Aug 2, 2004, 6:19 AM
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Re: what to bring- multipitch trad anchors [In reply to]
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In reply to:
I prefere stuff like a sliding x, maybe tied short, or to clip protection in a row, via girth hitches.

If redundancy is a concern (it almost always is for me), then just use two sliding x's through the same biners. The only problem with a single sliding x is that it only allows for breakage of one spot on the cord/webbing, and that's the end of the anchor. Plus, if one anchor point fails, it shockloads the other anchor point, but that's another discussion.

Clipping pro in a row--I've read about it in the John Long books, but never done it in a real situation. Seems a little sketchy since it breaks doesn't distribute the weight well across anchor points. I'm sure it has its place, I just haven't had to do it (yet).


corpse


Aug 2, 2004, 7:12 AM
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Clipping pro in a row--I've read about it in the John Long books, but never done it in a real situation. Seems a little sketchy since it breaks doesn't distribute the weight well across anchor points. I'm sure it has its place, I just haven't had to do it (yet).

The only time I've seen the pro clipped in a row, is for a belay anchor when you run out of gear, so you decide to use the rope.. And trying to make 2 or 3 big legs to create a power point using rope is going to eat up ooodles of noodles of rope, plus you'll have a huge knot.. So then the rope is clove hitched into the various pro. I had a leader do this very thing to me because while I led the first pitch, I used (almost all) the runners and webbing, and he didn't have enough stuff to build a "proper" belay anchor (or should I say more conventional?)..


dgkula


Aug 2, 2004, 7:36 AM
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I definitely carry 2 cordelettes if I will be leading all pitches. Otherwise, I tend to carry one and use the rope when sensible.


glowering


Aug 2, 2004, 7:52 AM
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In reply to:
given 2 bomber bolts .. (changes of either of them blowing is nil)
given smooth rock .. (no chance of the sling rubbing on rock and cutting)
given a double length sling that is in good shape ..

.. i'd trust 1 double length sling with a sliding X on 2 bolts as a multipitch trad anchor.. given the above criteria ..

.. of course if the sliding X bothers you .. just tye an overhand or figure eitght in the middle of it, and you wont have any extension problems.

1 sliding X is plenty strong but violates the redundancy and non-extending aspects of a good anchor. What if one bolt head is ready to shear off? I generally only use a sliding X to equalize two placements on route with a single length runner.

For two good bolts I double my cordelette and clip the two loops to the hangers then tie an 8 at the power point. So you have two loops going to each bolt and four loops in the power point. Super fast, strong, and redundant.

What is the advantage of a webolette over cord? (not the marketing hype but from experience) I haven't tried one but it seems that it's easier to untie the power point 8 in cord rather than webbing and you don't have to dress the knot in cord nearly as much as you do in webbing.


Partner tgreene


Aug 2, 2004, 7:53 AM
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I was faced with this yesterday, when I brought less gear on a route than required, and nearly ran out of runners for the anchor. It was a very runout lead, where I had no bomber placements, so I used up additional gear on a couple karma placements, that would only serve to slow a leader fall... :shock:

I was forced to use my last (2) 48" slings for the primary anchor points, and then used my Alpine Equalizer in full length as a redirect. It just gave me enough length, but I then had to evaluate the "what if's" and concluded that if I had made one more placement on route then the only other thing I would have been able to do, would be to link up all of my WC Rockcentrics that are on Spectra, in order to form a chain...


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